- Thread starter
- #41
Some more pics of Rear Suspension out
More pics
More pics
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JD Cruiser's 1981 BJ42 Body Repair & Restoration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JDCruiser
- Start date
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alberta mac
addicted but not cured
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OK pick up some zip cutting discs for a grinder and go easy and it will cut like butter.
Now you have gas tank mounts and if you are replacing them get long threaded rods and cut them down after the gas tank is re-installed.
I was going to mention Gozzard tubs which are excellent, nothing compares in glass. but anyway I will continue. use a gas bottle with your mig and put small tac welds to secure everything then go back and put continuous welds down.
IF you are replacing your 1/4 panels then attach your roof and fab a jig to secure your height of roof.
Likely you will need underbed channels so get some that are 16 or 14 ga , no lighter no heavier. I used hockey pucks for body mounts.
be patient when welding , time is your friend , things warp when one goes too fast !
Looks like a great truck ! so why not replace the rad hoses ?
Good find ! how many clicks ?
Ps . need parts ? see Wayne -Crushers Rule ( in your area )
Enjoy !!
Now you have gas tank mounts and if you are replacing them get long threaded rods and cut them down after the gas tank is re-installed.
I was going to mention Gozzard tubs which are excellent, nothing compares in glass. but anyway I will continue. use a gas bottle with your mig and put small tac welds to secure everything then go back and put continuous welds down.
IF you are replacing your 1/4 panels then attach your roof and fab a jig to secure your height of roof.
Likely you will need underbed channels so get some that are 16 or 14 ga , no lighter no heavier. I used hockey pucks for body mounts.
be patient when welding , time is your friend , things warp when one goes too fast !
Looks like a great truck ! so why not replace the rad hoses ?
Good find ! how many clicks ?
Ps . need parts ? see Wayne -Crushers Rule ( in your area )
Enjoy !!
- Thread starter
- #43
Hey Alberta Mac,
Thanks for your advice. Lots of that stuff I was planning so is good to know that I am on the right track. Thanks for the advice particularly on welding, not much of a welder, I am planning on getting a tank so that the welds are cleaner and I can do thinner stuff that the flux core. The entire rear floor has been cut out and I will be fabricating my own floor complete with new floor supports. Looking at getting a local shop to fab stuff up for me.
In terms of your question on clicks. Only has 81,000 kms on it. Was used primarly as a bush truck in north ontario.
Thanks for your advice. Lots of that stuff I was planning so is good to know that I am on the right track. Thanks for the advice particularly on welding, not much of a welder, I am planning on getting a tank so that the welds are cleaner and I can do thinner stuff that the flux core. The entire rear floor has been cut out and I will be fabricating my own floor complete with new floor supports. Looking at getting a local shop to fab stuff up for me.
In terms of your question on clicks. Only has 81,000 kms on it. Was used primarly as a bush truck in north ontario.
- Thread starter
- #44
Quick Update
Hello all,
It has been awhile since I wrote an update, about a month. It has been very busy for me lately with family, holidays, and had to go to Japan for 1 week for work. Over the Christmas holidays I did spend a significant amount of time trying out different sand blasters because I figure that is the best way to tackle the rust condition I have and I want to preserve the frame, cleanup the body and not have to do this again. I tried several units from princess auto, first with the little gravity feed hand held blasters, just didn't have enought power to remove the rust. Then stepped it up and was able to get their 10 gallon pot blaster on sale from $250 to $125. I tried 2 of them before giving up on those units. I found the crushed glass they sell at princess auto and recommend for it to pack up and you continously need to shake the unit as it clogs at the media valve. It is winter and I have an inline water trap so I don't think moisture is an issue. I think the inconsistent bead size makes it higher risk to packing. I then tried running bainite steel shot in it and it worked great for the first 10 mins however, then the hose filled up, which happens when pressure drops and normally is easy to relieve, however, when I tried to turn off the media valve it jammed, so I brought it back. I found a higher end unit at TSC stores for $179, and researched media for it, I was advised to use 80 grit aluminum oxide ($44 for 50lb bag at princess auto) and it works very well. I have to run in short bursts with my 2hp compressor and when you stop you need to shut off the media valve but it works very well.
I am working now on a recovery system for the aluminum oxide, it can be reused 100 times just need to capture and screen it. In order to avoid getting large rust particles in my recovered media, I decided to try and remove the thick large scale with a pneumatic needle descaler from princess auto ($39). This little tool is amazing. It goes through heavy scale like butter. It will not get it down to bare or clean metal but preps the surface great for sandblasting or sanding nicely. It is possible that with a product like rust bullet or POR15 you could just use the descaler and a little wire wheeling and then seal the rust in, however, I want to be sure I get rid of all the cancer. I have used it for 3 hrs straight now and have had no issues with it. You need to be careful when using it on thin sheet as it will warp and bend it the metal but with my condition, if it goes through it then the metal there needs to be replaced anyway so is good for finding the soft spots. It also breaks up thick bondo very well, especially if there is no structure behind the bondo or just mesh patch, breaks it right up and off. Anyone who is fighting heavy rust like I am this descaling tool is very handy and is a great first step at getting the scale off quick and getting a real good look at what you got to work with.
I am about half way through using the needle scale tool on the rear of the truck. I will post some pictures later of the results before I restart sandblasting again.
Cheers...
Hello all,
It has been awhile since I wrote an update, about a month. It has been very busy for me lately with family, holidays, and had to go to Japan for 1 week for work. Over the Christmas holidays I did spend a significant amount of time trying out different sand blasters because I figure that is the best way to tackle the rust condition I have and I want to preserve the frame, cleanup the body and not have to do this again. I tried several units from princess auto, first with the little gravity feed hand held blasters, just didn't have enought power to remove the rust. Then stepped it up and was able to get their 10 gallon pot blaster on sale from $250 to $125. I tried 2 of them before giving up on those units. I found the crushed glass they sell at princess auto and recommend for it to pack up and you continously need to shake the unit as it clogs at the media valve. It is winter and I have an inline water trap so I don't think moisture is an issue. I think the inconsistent bead size makes it higher risk to packing. I then tried running bainite steel shot in it and it worked great for the first 10 mins however, then the hose filled up, which happens when pressure drops and normally is easy to relieve, however, when I tried to turn off the media valve it jammed, so I brought it back. I found a higher end unit at TSC stores for $179, and researched media for it, I was advised to use 80 grit aluminum oxide ($44 for 50lb bag at princess auto) and it works very well. I have to run in short bursts with my 2hp compressor and when you stop you need to shut off the media valve but it works very well.
I am working now on a recovery system for the aluminum oxide, it can be reused 100 times just need to capture and screen it. In order to avoid getting large rust particles in my recovered media, I decided to try and remove the thick large scale with a pneumatic needle descaler from princess auto ($39). This little tool is amazing. It goes through heavy scale like butter. It will not get it down to bare or clean metal but preps the surface great for sandblasting or sanding nicely. It is possible that with a product like rust bullet or POR15 you could just use the descaler and a little wire wheeling and then seal the rust in, however, I want to be sure I get rid of all the cancer. I have used it for 3 hrs straight now and have had no issues with it. You need to be careful when using it on thin sheet as it will warp and bend it the metal but with my condition, if it goes through it then the metal there needs to be replaced anyway so is good for finding the soft spots. It also breaks up thick bondo very well, especially if there is no structure behind the bondo or just mesh patch, breaks it right up and off. Anyone who is fighting heavy rust like I am this descaling tool is very handy and is a great first step at getting the scale off quick and getting a real good look at what you got to work with.
I am about half way through using the needle scale tool on the rear of the truck. I will post some pictures later of the results before I restart sandblasting again.
Cheers...
- Thread starter
- #45
New Suspension Selection - Feedback Welcomed
I discovered a few weeks ago that my rear leaf springs are shot, the front spring eyes are cracked into pieces. I was planning on replacing them anyway and was intended to use Toyota or aftermarket stock dimension leafs, however, the Toyota ones don't exist anymore and is very hard to find aftermarket stock leafs.So I am now looking at a small lift around 2" to 2.5" which will allow me to put on 33" x 10.5" x 15" BFG MTs. So far my leading option is to source from the late model 2.5" lift suspension kit which used Dakar leaf springs, OME absorbers, and OME greasable shackles / bushings. This kit is $1250 (plus shipping which I still have to figure out because shipping to Canada would be a killer).Any thoughts on this suspension kit for 1981 BJ42? Any alternatives that you would suggest? I live in Ontario, Canada, is there a local supplier of this same type kit? Any feedback would be appreciated.
I discovered a few weeks ago that my rear leaf springs are shot, the front spring eyes are cracked into pieces. I was planning on replacing them anyway and was intended to use Toyota or aftermarket stock dimension leafs, however, the Toyota ones don't exist anymore and is very hard to find aftermarket stock leafs.So I am now looking at a small lift around 2" to 2.5" which will allow me to put on 33" x 10.5" x 15" BFG MTs. So far my leading option is to source from the late model 2.5" lift suspension kit which used Dakar leaf springs, OME absorbers, and OME greasable shackles / bushings. This kit is $1250 (plus shipping which I still have to figure out because shipping to Canada would be a killer).Any thoughts on this suspension kit for 1981 BJ42? Any alternatives that you would suggest? I live in Ontario, Canada, is there a local supplier of this same type kit? Any feedback would be appreciated.
coleman2347
Ole Jarhead
Just a thought, I am using 70 series springs on my 40 (import duties here are 100%) we bought them new and are having a little re-arch put into them. I believe that is going to give me the required lift to run 35's. I think by using different combinations of shackles, experimenting, you could achieve the results you want. I also believe you would get a better ride....just a thought..might save you some$
I have some stock height MAF springs that I took off my 81 FJ40 and bushings...
Lookin' good! I would definitely take a close look at the sill..... It is the prime spot for rot! Also, and easy place to start rebuilding you tub. By the looks of it, you will be replacing most if not all the rear panels. I've tried to chase rust and patch, but at some point, just gave up and replaced the whole panel.
If you buy in the states, do not use UPS!!!! the brokerage fees suck bigtime. I don't know how far you are from the border, but UPS stores will receive packages and hold them for you. I cross to Watertown NY and pick them up. Then, you just pay the HST on the way back. Most big truck shops can make leaf springs at a reasonable price. You can also customize them to what you want.
Keep up the good work! It gets fun when you look back and remember all those small details! Ever come to Ottawa?
If you buy in the states, do not use UPS!!!! the brokerage fees suck bigtime. I don't know how far you are from the border, but UPS stores will receive packages and hold them for you. I cross to Watertown NY and pick them up. Then, you just pay the HST on the way back. Most big truck shops can make leaf springs at a reasonable price. You can also customize them to what you want.
Keep up the good work! It gets fun when you look back and remember all those small details! Ever come to Ottawa?
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- Thread starter
- #49
Ambrew, thanks for the words of encouragement and advice. Thanks also for the parts insight, might be contacting you to get some more details on your experience. I am trying to source as much locally as possible, and the stuff that I need to get from across the border, I plan on using a Buffalo border store, which is only 1.5hrs away for me.
You are right, most panels from the front seats back are in bad shape and will need replacement. The rear floor is rotten right threw and the wheel wells are on the edge of needing to be replaced. The quaters were done sometime ago by the PO and I think the sill is salvagable because it was patched at the same time by the PO.
No in Ottawa to much, is about 5hrs away from me, but do have some friends there. If I am in your area will let you know, would be nice to talk shop. I am located about 1hr west of Toronto, near kitchener, if you are ever in the area drop me a line and you can see the project first hand, would be great to get your opinion.
Cheers.
You are right, most panels from the front seats back are in bad shape and will need replacement. The rear floor is rotten right threw and the wheel wells are on the edge of needing to be replaced. The quaters were done sometime ago by the PO and I think the sill is salvagable because it was patched at the same time by the PO.
No in Ottawa to much, is about 5hrs away from me, but do have some friends there. If I am in your area will let you know, would be nice to talk shop. I am located about 1hr west of Toronto, near kitchener, if you are ever in the area drop me a line and you can see the project first hand, would be great to get your opinion.
Cheers.
- Thread starter
- #50
Descaling Results
It has been awhile since I have updated my repair threadd and as promised I would post some pics after the descaling. I did some test sandblasting on the frame as well but the majority of the results you are seeing is from the air needle descaling tool that I got at Princess Auto. It made quick work of he heavy scale which will make it easier to sandblast and keep the recovered media cleaner.
Here are the pics...
It has been awhile since I have updated my repair threadd and as promised I would post some pics after the descaling. I did some test sandblasting on the frame as well but the majority of the results you are seeing is from the air needle descaling tool that I got at Princess Auto. It made quick work of he heavy scale which will make it easier to sandblast and keep the recovered media cleaner.
Here are the pics...
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- Thread starter
- #51
Descaling Results Continued...
More pics...
More pics...
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- Thread starter
- #52
Descaling Results Continued...
More Pics...
More Pics...
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- Thread starter
- #53
Descale Results Continued...
And More pics...
And More pics...
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- Thread starter
- #54
Rivet Removal Process
Because the rear cross member, angled gussets, and spring perch plates had to be removed I needed a method to release those rivets. Although I wasn't saving those parts, I wanted a method that wouldn't do too much damage to the parts and especially the frame rails which were not getting replaced.
I first tried grinding the heads off with my angle grinder and then punching them out with a 3/8" punch and a 32oz ball pein hammer. I got one out but it took me forever and I was wailing on the punch as hard as I could. I then tried a technique that I heard of on here which was to drill an 1/8" hole in the rivet and that helped a bit but I couldn't reach all of the rivet heads with the angle grinder. After some research and picking the brains of many mud members, I went out and got a good quality Ingersoll Rand hammer drill because the one I have is crap. I also got a bolt cutting chiesel and 3/8" punch bit from NAPA. In all cost be around $95 for the tool and specialized bits. In summary it worked like a dream. The process I used was this:
1) Knock one head of the rivet off using the air hammer with the bolt cutting bit. Will come off in seconds. Pick the side of the rivet that is accessible to drill and punch out.
2) Center punch the center on the rivet core
3) Using a 3/16" drill bit bore a hole right through the rivet core
4) Use the 3/8" punch bit on the air hammer and punch it out from the core side.
5) If it is a bit stubborn then you might have to grind the head off the other side of the rivet but I only found this for one or 2 of the rivets that I did out of about 20.
Here are some pics of the process and tools I used.
Because the rear cross member, angled gussets, and spring perch plates had to be removed I needed a method to release those rivets. Although I wasn't saving those parts, I wanted a method that wouldn't do too much damage to the parts and especially the frame rails which were not getting replaced.
I first tried grinding the heads off with my angle grinder and then punching them out with a 3/8" punch and a 32oz ball pein hammer. I got one out but it took me forever and I was wailing on the punch as hard as I could. I then tried a technique that I heard of on here which was to drill an 1/8" hole in the rivet and that helped a bit but I couldn't reach all of the rivet heads with the angle grinder. After some research and picking the brains of many mud members, I went out and got a good quality Ingersoll Rand hammer drill because the one I have is crap. I also got a bolt cutting chiesel and 3/8" punch bit from NAPA. In all cost be around $95 for the tool and specialized bits. In summary it worked like a dream. The process I used was this:
1) Knock one head of the rivet off using the air hammer with the bolt cutting bit. Will come off in seconds. Pick the side of the rivet that is accessible to drill and punch out.
2) Center punch the center on the rivet core
3) Using a 3/16" drill bit bore a hole right through the rivet core
4) Use the 3/8" punch bit on the air hammer and punch it out from the core side.
5) If it is a bit stubborn then you might have to grind the head off the other side of the rivet but I only found this for one or 2 of the rivets that I did out of about 20.
Here are some pics of the process and tools I used.
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- Thread starter
- #55
Rivet Removal Process Continued
Here are some more pics...
Here are some more pics...
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- Thread starter
- #56
Rivet Removal Process Continued
And final pics of the process.
And final pics of the process.
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- Thread starter
- #57
Frame Angled Gusset Removal
Over the past couple of weeks I have been working at getting the rotten rear frame components off the truck using the rivet removal process I described earlier. I started with the angled gussets which came off relatively easy. Here some pictures of them removed.
Over the past couple of weeks I have been working at getting the rotten rear frame components off the truck using the rivet removal process I described earlier. I started with the angled gussets which came off relatively easy. Here some pictures of them removed.
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- Thread starter
- #58
Frame Gusset Plate / Spring Perch Removal
Next step was to remove the gusset plates which have the spring perches welded to them. There were 4 rivets holding these onto the frame rails and rear cross member. They were a little more difficult due to the limited access to the rivet heads, however, not that bad. Here some pictures of the gusset plates removed.
Next step was to remove the gusset plates which have the spring perches welded to them. There were 4 rivets holding these onto the frame rails and rear cross member. They were a little more difficult due to the limited access to the rivet heads, however, not that bad. Here some pictures of the gusset plates removed.
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- Thread starter
- #59
Rear Cross Member Removal
Next step was to remove the rear cross member. I first had to undo the 2 rear most body mounts which secures the body rear sill to the frame rear cross member. I tried lubing and heating them up then putting my impact wrench on them but wouldn't budge so it was time to cut them off. After cutting the double nuts off it took some persuasion to get the spacer collar out, one side came out with some punching, the other side I had to cut through the poly bushing to cut the collar off.
After that, I knocked the rivet heads off the few remaining rivets (3 per side) that connected the rear cross member to the frame rails.
I also added some floor braces to the tub so that the backend doesn't sag too much. Below are some pictures of the rear cross member removal.
Next step was to remove the rear cross member. I first had to undo the 2 rear most body mounts which secures the body rear sill to the frame rear cross member. I tried lubing and heating them up then putting my impact wrench on them but wouldn't budge so it was time to cut them off. After cutting the double nuts off it took some persuasion to get the spacer collar out, one side came out with some punching, the other side I had to cut through the poly bushing to cut the collar off.
After that, I knocked the rivet heads off the few remaining rivets (3 per side) that connected the rear cross member to the frame rails.
I also added some floor braces to the tub so that the backend doesn't sag too much. Below are some pictures of the rear cross member removal.
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- Thread starter
- #60
Sandblasting Recovery System Setup
With all of the rotten frame components removed it is time to start sandblasting. A couple of months ago I trialed many different blasters and media types. I found the best setup to be a 10 gallon pot blaster made by CPE which I bought at TSC using 80 grit aluminum oxide. The best rate I could find for this media is $0.74 per lb so a 50lb bag was around $35 which will only last about an hour or so of blasting. The aluminum oxide is very hard and can be reused 30 to 40 times before it breaks down to the point where it needs to be replaced. Because of this it was necessary to setup a recovery system which I am still working on. I came up with a set of tarps that captures a majority of the amount of media (hoping around 80%). I then plan on collecting into a plastic tote and screen it through a fine seive.
Below are some pictures of the recovery system I have setup. I have not done a complete recovery cycle yet or tried screening the recovered media but will post pics when I do.
With all of the rotten frame components removed it is time to start sandblasting. A couple of months ago I trialed many different blasters and media types. I found the best setup to be a 10 gallon pot blaster made by CPE which I bought at TSC using 80 grit aluminum oxide. The best rate I could find for this media is $0.74 per lb so a 50lb bag was around $35 which will only last about an hour or so of blasting. The aluminum oxide is very hard and can be reused 30 to 40 times before it breaks down to the point where it needs to be replaced. Because of this it was necessary to setup a recovery system which I am still working on. I came up with a set of tarps that captures a majority of the amount of media (hoping around 80%). I then plan on collecting into a plastic tote and screen it through a fine seive.
Below are some pictures of the recovery system I have setup. I have not done a complete recovery cycle yet or tried screening the recovered media but will post pics when I do.
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