hoser
SILVER Star
This is my first attempt at a High-Intensity Discharge (HID) retrofit. Since I haven't seen anybody else on this board do it, I'll step up. Just know that installing HID's into a vehicle that never had them is illegal. This is mainly because people were putting HID bulbs into halogen reflector-type housings and causing extreme glare for other drivers. HID's can in some instances work reasonably well with some OEM halogen projector type headlamps as they do have cut-off shields to produce a decent beam pattern but they don't usually maximize the potential of a true HID system. I wanted headlamps that would work as well as OEM HID's and not cause any unwanted glare to other drivers...even more tricky since my LX headlamps are raised 5" over stock.
It is possible to do an HID retrofit to an LC but it will require a little more work as you'll need to fabricate some projector shrouds. The LX has clear headlamp lenses that are less "fluted" than the LC so the beam pattern doesn't get distorted. The LX will also retain accurate aim when loaded because of the self-leveling AHC suspension. If a loaded LC drops 1.5" in the rear, the headlights will aim up some.
I think the project went well and has dramatically improved my lighting. By comparison the standard LX lightbulbs (H1) are rated at about 1410 lumens. The LC Halogen lightbulbs (9006) are rated at 1000 lumens. These High Intensity Discharge lamps are rated at 3200 lumens and have a rated life of 3000 hrs or 3-4 times longer than most H1 bulbs. But besides brightness, the biggest advantage of using HID's is the vast improvement in "peripheral" vision--the light is spread across the front of the vehicle eliminating that tunnel effect. Especially helpful when reading signs, spotting pedestrians/animals and driving on curvy roads.
This project cannot be done in just one afternoon. I think more like 2-3 days at a leisurely pace. You'll only need basic tools except for a cut-off tool (grinding wheel) which usually means an air compressor. You'll need this to modify the OEM metal projector bracket. The total parts involved came out to be around $500 new. You can buy your parts used on ebay and save some money, possibly getting the cost down to about $300. But beware of all the junk out there. Buy quality name brands. After much research, I decided to go with the HID Planet kit. HIDplanet.com is a great resource for retrofitting.
The package includes:
(2) Bosch Projectors
(2) Hella/Philips LVQ-212 G3 Ballasts
(2) D2S HID Bulbs 4100K Temperature
(2) Ballast Covers/mounts
(2) Ballast connectors
$379.99 + shipping (The price comes up as $399 on the website but as soon as you put it in the cart, it shows $379.)
It was the best deal around for new components. These are OEM components on some BMW and Mercedes vehicles. The Bosch projectors are E-code (ECE) that have a european cut-off pattern. Search ECE vs DOT HID if you want to know the difference. There are better projectors out there (Honda S2000, Acura TSX, etc) but that would have boosted the cost by $150-300. I figured I'd try these out first and see how it goes.
Besides the above you'll need 6-1" bolts, 6 washers, 18 nuts, and headlamp sealer. You'll also want to make a wiring harness that runs power directly from the battery and uses the stock wiring as a trigger. You'll have less voltage loss this way. People have used the existing wiring directly connected to the HID ballast but do so at your own risk. Although HID's only require 35 watts vs the stock lights at 55 watts, the initial demand is about 4 times that of the standard Halogens. I played it safe and made my own harness. I suggest you buy your electrical parts online from one source as it usually difficult to find all the parts locally, especially quality parts.
Harness Parts:
17ft of 14 or 12 gauge cable (Red)
17ft of 14 or 12 gauge cable (Black)
20ft of 3/8 split loom
Fuse holder and fuse (25-30amps). I recommend using the same type of "mini-fuse" that is used in the Toyota fuse box in case you need a spare. I used one fuse before the relay but some people use up to three. I think one is sufficient.
Solder, heat shrink tubing, black tape and zip ties.
Standard Automotive Relay and Relay holder--I would recommend using a bosch weather proof relay. They also make weather resistant relay sockets.
The N4001 diode in the diagram is optional (I didn't use one)
Here's a very good write-up of how to make your wiring harness so I won't go into it much further. I had pictures of mine with dimensions but the file somehow got corrupted. I suggest doing all the wiring first and then tackle the headlights. I chose to mount my ballast inside the fenders. If you use a smaller ballast, it is easier to fit in the engine compartment. I didn't want to sacrifice any space since I will probably be getting a larger battery in the future. I ran the wiring up and over the radiator following the OEM wiring.
Here's a wiring diagram you can follow. The only difference is in the 9006 harness. We'd reuse the OEM H1 harness. I deleted the diode in my install. Also a picture showing the proper polarity on the ballast since it isn't labeled.
It is possible to do an HID retrofit to an LC but it will require a little more work as you'll need to fabricate some projector shrouds. The LX has clear headlamp lenses that are less "fluted" than the LC so the beam pattern doesn't get distorted. The LX will also retain accurate aim when loaded because of the self-leveling AHC suspension. If a loaded LC drops 1.5" in the rear, the headlights will aim up some.
I think the project went well and has dramatically improved my lighting. By comparison the standard LX lightbulbs (H1) are rated at about 1410 lumens. The LC Halogen lightbulbs (9006) are rated at 1000 lumens. These High Intensity Discharge lamps are rated at 3200 lumens and have a rated life of 3000 hrs or 3-4 times longer than most H1 bulbs. But besides brightness, the biggest advantage of using HID's is the vast improvement in "peripheral" vision--the light is spread across the front of the vehicle eliminating that tunnel effect. Especially helpful when reading signs, spotting pedestrians/animals and driving on curvy roads.
This project cannot be done in just one afternoon. I think more like 2-3 days at a leisurely pace. You'll only need basic tools except for a cut-off tool (grinding wheel) which usually means an air compressor. You'll need this to modify the OEM metal projector bracket. The total parts involved came out to be around $500 new. You can buy your parts used on ebay and save some money, possibly getting the cost down to about $300. But beware of all the junk out there. Buy quality name brands. After much research, I decided to go with the HID Planet kit. HIDplanet.com is a great resource for retrofitting.
The package includes:
(2) Bosch Projectors
(2) Hella/Philips LVQ-212 G3 Ballasts
(2) D2S HID Bulbs 4100K Temperature
(2) Ballast Covers/mounts
(2) Ballast connectors
$379.99 + shipping (The price comes up as $399 on the website but as soon as you put it in the cart, it shows $379.)
It was the best deal around for new components. These are OEM components on some BMW and Mercedes vehicles. The Bosch projectors are E-code (ECE) that have a european cut-off pattern. Search ECE vs DOT HID if you want to know the difference. There are better projectors out there (Honda S2000, Acura TSX, etc) but that would have boosted the cost by $150-300. I figured I'd try these out first and see how it goes.
Besides the above you'll need 6-1" bolts, 6 washers, 18 nuts, and headlamp sealer. You'll also want to make a wiring harness that runs power directly from the battery and uses the stock wiring as a trigger. You'll have less voltage loss this way. People have used the existing wiring directly connected to the HID ballast but do so at your own risk. Although HID's only require 35 watts vs the stock lights at 55 watts, the initial demand is about 4 times that of the standard Halogens. I played it safe and made my own harness. I suggest you buy your electrical parts online from one source as it usually difficult to find all the parts locally, especially quality parts.
Harness Parts:
17ft of 14 or 12 gauge cable (Red)
17ft of 14 or 12 gauge cable (Black)
20ft of 3/8 split loom
Fuse holder and fuse (25-30amps). I recommend using the same type of "mini-fuse" that is used in the Toyota fuse box in case you need a spare. I used one fuse before the relay but some people use up to three. I think one is sufficient.
Solder, heat shrink tubing, black tape and zip ties.
Standard Automotive Relay and Relay holder--I would recommend using a bosch weather proof relay. They also make weather resistant relay sockets.
The N4001 diode in the diagram is optional (I didn't use one)
Here's a very good write-up of how to make your wiring harness so I won't go into it much further. I had pictures of mine with dimensions but the file somehow got corrupted. I suggest doing all the wiring first and then tackle the headlights. I chose to mount my ballast inside the fenders. If you use a smaller ballast, it is easier to fit in the engine compartment. I didn't want to sacrifice any space since I will probably be getting a larger battery in the future. I ran the wiring up and over the radiator following the OEM wiring.
Here's a wiring diagram you can follow. The only difference is in the 9006 harness. We'd reuse the OEM H1 harness. I deleted the diode in my install. Also a picture showing the proper polarity on the ballast since it isn't labeled.
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