Hello! My introduction (1 Viewer)

[VeloceVito]

is there a procedure for engaging and disengaging the differentials ?
i was able to lock them pretty easy, put the switch into fr ff, they started blinking, dropped car in neutral, and in low , the middle locked (though Threw abs light)
crawled little bit forward and all of them engaged,
disengaging was the issue, front didnt want to disengage, same with midle,
either i did something wrong, or everything got stuck because it was never used ?

 

[Rusty Marlin]

is there a procedure for engaging and disengaging the differentials ?
i was able to lock them pretty easy, put the switch into fr ff, they started blinking, dropped car in neutral, and in low , the middle locked (though Threw abs light)

Make sure you are on a forgiving surface, sand, gravel, mud; I wouldn't recommend your lawn, lockers are very rough on the lawn.
You should avoid engaging the lockers on solid surfaces, especially all three together as it will make steering very difficult and bind the everliving crap out of the drive train.

Start the proceedure from N on the main PRND2L shifter. Then shift the T-case to (L)ow. In stock format, this will lock the center diff and turn off ABS.
Shift to D or R as needed and with the vehical stopped then engage the other lockers as needed for the situation.

crawled little bit forward and all of them engaged,

Normal, a slight motion of the drive train allows the lockers to fully engage with the splines as they are rarley in perfect alignment when the lockers are first engaged.

disengaging was the issue, front didnt want to disengage, same with midle,
either i did something wrong, or everything got stuck because it was never used ?

Normal, there is torsional bind in the system and you need to releave it. Try sawing the steering wheel back and forth and going from drive to neutal to reverse and back with a small forward and reversing movments. This should un-bind the drive train and allow the lockers to disengage the splines. If this doesn't work try figure 8's.

 

[VeloceVito]

project keep piling up and car still hasnt left our shop yard lol.
decided to do tune up, because god knows when anything was done,
ordered new fuel filter which im gonna tackle while doing brake booster
New ignition wires, Distributor rotor and rotor cap
new pcv valve
already has new air filter and new spark plugs
interior got cleaned so its finally not looking like a barn haha
gotta get under the seats and see why they not going back or forward, (might be that screw cap thingie missing?) i hear motors running, seat trying to move but it feels like its locked in place
still need to remove side steps, which are almost disintegrated, no metal support left just rubber lol

 

[VeloceVito]

Well, things are moving up.
Installed new brakebooster car now has brakes woohoo
At same time installed new spark plug wires
And put the front back together, still waiting for rest of the tune up parts

Edit: might have a clogged cat, car doesnt rev over 2k rmps and is super sluggish, barely got to 35mph

 

[VeloceVito]

Passenger side

The more i look the more i cringe

 

[VeloceVito]

Got the car to drivable condition finally,
Replaced original fuel filter 320k miles on it.. crazy. Haha
Distributor rotor and cap
Sparkplug wires and spark plugs
Pcv valve
Determined was clogged cat removed that now car breathes freely woohoo

 

[baldilocks]

Your enthusiasm is appreciated. Welcome to you new obsession.

 

[Marvelicious]

s***'ll buff out...

 

[greentruck]

Literally the most rusted 80 I've ever seen.

Possibly. The hatch is definitely grand champion in that class, in any case. The only part I have sitting around is the glass and that is the only one you probably don't need. If you manage to get a whole new hatch, the OP should consider parting out the glass on this one, though, as the cost new is >$800.

 

[VeloceVito]

today was the first day i took it to work, which was the first time i drove it more than 1 mile since i bought it hahahaaha,
still battling exhaust issues, but car drives ok. little bit floaty but maybe i just need to get used to it lol

 

[VeloceVito]

so both kitties in exhaust were stuck, had to "gently remove them" feels like day and night, from not being able to rev over 2k rpms and go more than 35mph, now it goes. gonna battle out the snorkel install pretty soon.
decided to go as budget as possible and see where it leads.
But i do wanna adress the rust!
any suggestions how should i start? scrape and grind the loose rust ? never had to deal with rust on my 1989 porsche and i drove it here in illinois winters lol so this is new to me, i even went and asked dry ice cleaners and they said its too much rust for the machine lol

 

[CrabCake]

Can't help with the rust issues, but glad to see that you are pushing forward! Even if this one turns out to be an exercise in 80 series learning, I think you've been bitten by the bug!

Back several years before my 80, I had a "free" '03 Audi A6 that had the 2.7tt and 6 speed manual. Car came from NY state and was quite the rust bucket too...did my own work on it and spent a bit on parts. In the end, was able to sell for close to what I had in it and bought a super clean '03 RS6 that was a joy to work on after the first project car. Point being, I learned on the beater and was patient to find an awesome upgrade for a great deal as well, but the confidence of working on it was far less daunting.

Keep on !