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FJ80 brakes

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Photo_Cruiser, Apr 16, 2003.

  1. Photo_Cruiser

    Photo_Cruiser

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    Hey All,
    I here the brakes on the front of a 97 US FJ80, are a cinch, Mine just started to squeal, I read, ome pads or 100 series pads w/new rotors. I don't want new rotors, so I'll go with oem for the 80 series. Do I have to bleed, or release pressure yo get em in. Any tech articles out there. I searched with no luck.

    Thanks
     
  2. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    Nope, easy to do. Just take the top off the master, press the caliper pistons in by your favorite method and put the pads in.
     
  3. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Hi P_C and welcome to the group!

    Replacing front brake pads on the 80 is a 2 banana job; 1 banana if you've done pads on other vehicles before.

    Many of us recommend using only OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer = Toyota) pads. OME is the common abbreviation for Old Man Emu, an aftermarket suspension supplier.  On the 93-97 80s you can choose the 80 series pads (97's carry a different p/n) or the 100 series pads. The 100 series pads are thicker and have more area. The anti-squeal shims usually will not fit with 100 series pads on the 80 series rotors and calipers. You do not need to buy new rotors in order to use the 100 series pads.

    To insert any new pads you will need to compress the pistons back into the calipers. If your brake fluid resevoir is full then it will overflow as the fluid is returned to the resevoir during the piston compression. You must remove some fluid in the resevoir.  You will not need to bleed the brakes so long as you do not disconnect any brake lines or otherwise introduce air into the brake system. There are many ways to compress the pistons back into the calipers; I use a piece of wood, others use a C-clamp.

    If you are going to be doing your own maintenance then the FSM is a requirement. If you want to learn more about the truck, how it works, how it is put together, and in general to become more knowledgeable then you need the FSM.  In a pinch, the Haynes manual will cover some basics like replacing the disk brake pads.

    Search the web on replacing brake pads. I'm sure there are a lot of web sites with pictures. Your Land Cruiser is very typical of disk brake vehicles and the procedures are the same.

    Let us know if you have any problems or more questions.

    -B-
     
  4. Photo_Cruiser

    Photo_Cruiser

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    Sweet...

    I read it was cake. I'll go with the oem pads, I heard others sqeel and in general are a waste. I need that manual, I guess order it from toyota?

    Thus far it's my dream rig in the raw. Ready for OME, heavy duty. Get that darn tire out from under, give me some rock protection and point me toward Donner Summit!

    I've been hanging out over on the landcruisertrader bb, but this one has a lot more info for my rig...thanks for the help!
     
  5. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    P_C,

    A '97 without leather? &nbsp:Do you have a moonroof and 3rd seats? That's a rare one.

    -B-
     
  6. Photo_Cruiser

    Photo_Cruiser

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    Yep...
    moonroof and 3rd row seats. The PO I bought it from said he custom ordered it. Is that possible? I am in Cali, I bought it out of Virginia. It was tough to find a 97, for the solid front axle, with the lockers. He had it, no leather, no alarm/security electronic stuff. no running boards or roof racks, but with the lockers. I bought it about 8 months ago with 40k on the odometer. Did all the carfax checks, title checks, had a mechanic check it out. It did seem weird, all the dealers I talked too thought it was odd...although half of them were clueless about lockers as well. Basically it's a bare bones cruiser.
     
  7. bkgiii

    bkgiii SILVER Star

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    Welcome Back, P_C....you've got a good looking rig.
     
  8. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    P_C,

    That one is indeed rare and highly desirable. All enthusiasts want the diff locks and we take off the running boards anyway. The roof rack is a rust trap and most replace theirs with safari racks. The RS3000 alarm has some bizarre "features" to say the least.  

    FYI, the running boards, roof rack, and alarm are port installed options. While they are referred to as "factory," none actually left the ARACO factory with any of those items.  UK "factory" roof racks are different from US "factory" roof racks. Same with running boards. Some of us prefer the cloth seats though the power seats are very comfortable.

    With only 40k miles you bought a virtually new 80 series Cruiser for a great price I'm sure.  My '97 has 119k miles if that makes you feel any better.

    Eric has a "thing" about seat covers in case you are interested in going from cloth to leather to neoprene to sheepskin and finally to clear plastic.  It's been a couple of weeks now so maybe he has something new we haven't heard about.  :G

    Welcome!
    -B-
     
  9. ParadiseCruiser

    ParadiseCruiser

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    Welcome P_C -

    I'm not so far from Donner... where are you located ?

    R -
     
  10. Photo_Cruiser

    Photo_Cruiser

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    I am actually in San Rafael, but lived at lake tahoe for 20 years, have a family home there.

    I have a buddy that has a cabin out of the cisco grove exit off of hwy 8o. Up a pretty nasty trail, creek crossing if the runoff is high. Rocker protection recommended. I haven't ran a thing since i got rid of a cheep for this cruiser. I am sure ready to though. Do you go out with any group etc? Kinda off topic here.

    I put on some new rubber, po had small treadless pirelli scorpions, added a transfer skid, trying to figure out who's sliders to go for, and have OME on my mind. I am taking the rig into Mudraks next week for a thourough health check on both lockers, buy an OME kit from him. And then make some summer plans!!!!
     
  11. Rogue

    Rogue

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    The 100 series pads are worth changing over to. I have 8000 miles on mine so far and the are still over 75%
     
  12. dano82

    dano82

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    whats the part number for the pads
     
  13. 890man

    890man

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    Whoa, bring out your dead.........
     
  14. colsoncj

    colsoncj

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    i'm betting the search function was actually used...
     
  15. Cruiser804

    Cruiser804 SILVER Star

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    I'm not dead yet, if fact I am feeling better...

    04465-60220
    UZJ100; MARK NBK PN532H 2 59.96
     
    KayyBaby likes this.
  16. arotrhd

    arotrhd

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    I just finished new rotors & pads on all corners for our '80 (100 pads in front) - don't need to bleed the system. Had the front rotors turned but needed new rears. Ordered all through Cabe Toyota in Long Beach and they hooked me up with the CDan costs (talk to Wes or Boone & mention TLCA or Mud, ~25% discount). Pasadena Toy wanted between 12 - 18% OVER list...guessing they have to pay for their new digs one way or another.

    P/N's:
    04465-60220 Pad Kit [list $74.95, net $56.21] ...I forget if these were the 100 fronts or 80 rears - sorry
    04466-60020 Pad Kit [list $74.95, net $56.21]
    42431-60171 Disc, RR [list 143.18 ea., net 107.39)

    Total for the weekend changeout was $357.47 with tax + $10 for the turning; 3-1/2 hours taking my time. Took me about 5 minutes to remember the front cone washer removal...give a few 'gentle' raps with the fine tuning instrument (hammer) to the outside diameter of the hub adjacent to the washers. 54 MM socket or deep channel locks for the bearing retainer nuts. On the rears, the discs practically slide off w/o the e-brake engaged. Popped the cover off the Mast Cyl Res & used a c-clamp to push the pistons back in.

    Yup, another 1st poster :flipoff2:, hopefully info's helpful.
     
  17. yosemitesamiam

    yosemitesamiam

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    Bringing back the dead once again. I don't agree with removal of the master cylinder cover to push fluid back. I've always released the bleeder at the caliper I'm working on, and pushed the caliper back with a block of wood and a C-clamp...and here is why: You run the risk of introducing dirt into the system whenever you push a caliper back in. I'd rather that dirt go out the bleeder instead of back into the system...especially with ABS sensors involved.

    Leave the cover on, crack the bleeder, push the caliper back in, close the bleeder, put in the new pads, re-assemble. Once finished, check the master and top off as needed with fresh fluid.