1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

FJ62 4WD indicator light always on

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Guest, Feb 12, 2003.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    My FJ62 4WD indicator light stays on. Even in the "OFF" position (out) it is on. I have tried several meens of disengaging transfer, ie. backing while in 4X4 and not. Shifting through automatic transmission, shifting transfer into low and back to high, and all options in between as well as locking and unlocking hubs and driving, all fails a reply. Highway speeds, warmed up, nope. Driving down bumpy, pot hole roads doesn't efect it either. Is my transfer case not disengaging? Should I leave hubs locked until issue is solved? I don't hear the transer case making any noise when switch is activated or deactivated. Hmmm. Anyone?
     
  2. zipp

    zipp

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2002
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    I am assuming that you have manual locking hubs, manual shift transfer case, and dont' have full time 4wd. FJ62's? I have never worked on one.

    Don't know what's wrong- but here's what I'd do: First, unlock your hubs, throw the tranny in low, and the tcase in 2wd. Either have someone watch, or get out while it's crawling along, and see if the front driveshaft is spinning. If it is, then your transfer case is engaged... If that is the case, then you have some issue with the shift linkage, electrical, or the tcase itself not disengaging. If the driveshaft is not spinning when you check it, then you probably just have a short in the sensor wire to your tcase. A problem with the linkage or tcase would need some attention. The wire would too, but would be less urgent.
    I'm not sure how it's set up- but try and figure out if the light is working, or if something else is not right.
    HTH- Zipp.
     
  3. Erics75

    Erics75

    Messages:
    81
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2002
    It's probably just the switch sticking. Crawl under your rig and pull out the switch on the T/case, if you have a meter you can check the switch itself. You can either check it with a continuity tester or an ohm meter. If the switch is good you will get continuity in one position and not the other and with the ohm setting you should get an infinite reading in one position and a small resistance in the other. Also if your hubs are unlocked and your T/case is in neutral, you should be able to turn the front shaft, that will tell you if your in or out of gear.
     
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest

    I had the same problem with my 62. You most likely have a bad solenoid. If you look at the passenger side firewall (next to the wiper motor) you will see two solenoids (one red, one blue). A temporary fix you can use (without having to switch the bad solenoid) is to switch the two hoses coming from the solenoid around while the 4WD putton is in the ON position. Once the hoses are switched, press the 4WD button off. You will now be back in two wheel drive (light should shut off). Hope this helps.

    Damian
     
  5. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Im just throwing this out there because the same thing is happening on my 1969 FJ40 I dontknow what is the same between a 62 or 40 so this may not help, anyway i looked at a haynes manual and it looks like there is what appears to be a small ball bearing that operates the switch. I think mine fell out when I swapped the tranny a couple of months ago. It might not be that but thought id throw it out there
     
  6. Guest

    Guest Guest

    The H2/4 is controlled by a vacuum switch which has two solenoids mounted top center of the firewall. One of your solenoids is bad. Swap the 2 hoses that come out the front of the solenoids and run down the firewall. That should allow you to get out of H4. If it doesn't, make sure the metal vacuum tubes aren't rusted out down below. Replacing the solenoid assembly with a new Toyota one is expensive but easy. Many build their own with the following recipe:

    parts:
    mac valve 35a-aaa-ddba-1ba valve 12 volt- qty 2 $34.00
    arrow asp-1 exhaust muffler qty 2 $3.20

    total for two valves assembly is $39.64
    enough hose on truck but you want to get a little more.

    the mac valves have 3 slots for the fittings
    use teflon tape for a good seal
    the exhaust fitting goes in the top numbered 3
    install the parker fittings in the other two screw intakess
    the lind from th manifold goes into fitting marked 1
    on the mac valve.
    the line from the transfer goes into fitting marked 2
    cut the old wire leads off and connect the mac valve leads.
    connect the vacuum lines.
    for the mounting bracket i used a piece of alum. and formed a bracket.
    these valves are industrial quality and should last a very long time.
    to find valves go to macvalves.com
     
  7. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Thanks for all the suggestions, comments, and tricks! Although I have dropped the rig off at the local Yoda shop for expert analysis and tinkering. The H4/H2 button wasn't the only problem. Also have a wierd gear/drive train noise that get's louder ass I accelerate. This info is valuable in the event that it happens again and I wont waste quarter of a tank driving down the block in 4X4. Thanks for all the advice, Land Cruisers are the toughest!
     
  8. cruiser_guy

    cruiser_guy

    Messages:
    11,209
    Likes Received:
    22
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2003
    Location:
    Wherever the truck stops!!
    :'( Your "weird drive train noise that increases with speed" is very likely bad transfer case bearings. I had the same thing and when I hauled the transfer apart the idler shaft was worn down from the failed bearings. You'll want to check it out real soon!! The idler shaft speed is directly proportional to vehicle speed thus it could likely be the problem as it was with me. Mine was caused by an oil leak between tranny and transfer (a common problem which if left undetected....)