FJ62 3F to Ford “Barra” Swap (11 Viewers)

[GRpufnstuf]

Ameri-barra, haha! What makes you prefer an LL8 over LS?

Nothing specific against the LS. I've gone down that thought process as well.
I've always enjoyed a straight 6 when I owned one though. Typically smooth and torquey

AND a straight 6 is what came in there! OH aaaaaand isn't the 1,2,3f etc toyota family basically a 40s or 50s GM engine?

plus I'd expect marginally better fuel economy from a 270-290 HP 4.2 vs 5.3+ V8

 

[Cruisunder]

Measured up approximate driveline dimensions and angles before extraction, hoping these might help someone else in the future.

 

[kevin in okinawa]

No turbo? Isn’t that what makes the Barra motor so awesome? I wish you the best with the na setup.

 

[Cruisunder]

No turbo? Isn’t that what makes the Barra motor so awesome? I wish you the best with the na setup.

No, not yet at least. What makes it awesome right now is that I will have double the HP and a good 6sp automatic transmission. In future maybe but for now keeping it "simple" - my to do list is long enough haha.

 

[Cruisunder]

Extended the 79 shifter linkage by 35mm, now seems to work well with the HF1A tcase. There is only one detent on the shifter itself, between N and L4 (anyone think this is incorrect, let me know), so I’ll have to learn by feeling not to move the stick from H2 straight to N .
I tested the 4wd indicator switch has continuity for the positions H4, N and L4, which I suppose is as it should be.

 

[Combat Wombat]

Looking great so far!
I am still entertaining a Barra to replace my 3F, it seems more affordable than a Holley Sniper!
Having an N/A setup is perfect for keeping the noise down too. Nothing better than crawling though national parks in stealth mode. Also very neighbour friendly when rocking up to a campground at 1am

 

[Cruisunder]

Nothing exciting, but the old is starting to make place for the new. A spreadsheet and plenty of photos to keep track of things …

 

[Cruisunder]

Well, didn't see that one coming, maybe useful for others to note. Just removed the drive shafts and thought I'd check if they mate with the 80 series tcase, as I was expecting. Rear was a straight fit but the front shaft flange has a wider bolt pattern and the 60 series bolts are a size bigger as well. Fortunately, I'm told an 80 series shaft will solve this problem as they have the same slip joint. Front half 60, rear half 80, now just to source an 80 series front drive shaft

 

[Cruisunder]

Going to install the 3F temperature sensor in the port that used to feed the Ford’s transmission cooler (which I’ll replace by an external cooler). Took a 3/4” barb fitting with 3/8” npt male end, drilled the back to 14.5 mm and tapped a 16.5x1.5 thread to accept the Toyota sensor.

 

[chelo]

Well, didn't see that one coming, maybe useful for others to note. Just removed the drive shafts and thought I'd check if they mate with the 80 series tcase, as I was expecting. Rear was a straight fit but the front shaft flange has a wider bolt pattern and the 60 series bolts are a size bigger as well. Fortunately, I'm told an 80 series shaft will solve this problem as they have the same slip joint. Front half 60, rear half 80, now just to source an 80 series front drive shaft
View attachment 3514259

You can also try one from a 100 if it's easier to source. Should work.

 

[Cruisunder]

Just before the year 2023 comes to an end we managed to pull the engine. We left the gear box and tcase bolted to the engine and because someone else said it could be done, we also left the tcase shifter linkage in place (only removed the shifter knob). We did end up unbolting the tcase vacuum unit because it refused to clear that splash guard you can see in one of the photos. Otherwise no hiccups, 2 man job for the better part of 2.5 hours. Good feeling to reach this milestone.

Happy New Year everyone!

 

[Cruisunder]

From left to right, Toyota oil pressure with 3/8 to 1/8 NPT reducer, Ford oil pressure and Toyota coolant temperature sensors happily living together. Best fitted with engine out of car.

 

[yourbuddy]

I just stumbled upon your project here, I cant wait to see how good this rips around!

 

[Cruisunder]

I just stumbled upon your project here, I cant wait to see how good this rips around!

Have some patience then, I'm not quick, just want to do things right

 

[Cruisunder]

No, not fallen asleep, still literally getting to the bottom of the bay for cleaning and to separate what goes from what stays. Frame and fenders don’t look too bad after a bit of a clean, but planning to do some paint touch-ups while we’re in there.
Also got a CANbarra module and have a tacho driver on the way, both will help me to get the old Toyota tacho and ac including amplifier to work with the Barra PCM CANbus.

 

[Cruisunder]

Fabbed some hardboard engine mounts to see how things would line up and then used some flat 6mm and 75mm square tube steel to make the parts for the engine mounts. Toyota chassis mounts will be re-used (will move back 150-200mm from where they are in photo), rubber shock absorbers to be replaced while we’re in there. Expect that the barra engine (crank shaft) will sit almost in the centre of the engine bay.

 

[Cruisunder]

Removing some more obsolete stuff made me think, have people found reasons to retain the hand throttle and made it work with a dbw gas pedal?

 

[Cruisunder]

Test-fitted the engine / transmission / tcase with steel mounts as per cardboard examples. Found a nice central spot which should give 3-4cm between engine pulleys and cooling fan, as well as enough room between rear of engine and firewall so we can still comfortably access the coolant temperature sensor at the rear if the head. Engine mounts have moved backed about 200mm.

 

[Cruisunder]

Fitment in tunnel seems okay, just need to do something about the lever and (not used) shifter base sticking out to minimise lowering of the tcase. Looks like we will need some spacers though. Crossmember mounts are 200x100x75 angle steel placed about 300mm back from original crossmember mounts. All mounts are tacked in and ready for welding to chassis rails.

Update:
Removed enough material to win 15-20mm. Part of this “solution” was to flip the lever on the transfer case upside down to sit it much closer to the casing. The thread in the red circle will be shortened and welded onto the lever.

 

[Cruisunder]

While waiting for the welding of the engine mounts, work has started on the fuel supply. I’ll go for copper-nickel hard lines along the chassis rails, 8mm supply / 6mm return and tank vapour. Mid-frame the lines will transfer from driver to passenger side as the barra engine inlet is passenger side. Want to keep exhaust and fuel as far apart as possible.

Got a little lucky installing a PA-4 pump module in the Longranger tank. The tank has a kind of header at the rear where the fuel supply and return connect. The tank has its own fuel tray but I didn’t know where or how big. I picked the location of the new module based on access through the car floor under the back seat. When I opened the tank header, a subfloor was revealed and I had to cut another hole. Awkward but got the job done with a drill and reciprocating metal saw. Didn’t need to be pretty . Turns out at that location the Tanks Inc pump module fitted and its fuel tray would sit on the tank floor, just beside the tanks original fuel tray. Used Permatex Aviation sealant to glue the rubber seal on. Next is cutting the car floor to install an inspection door.