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Photoman said:I was concerned that the lack of the rad etc. would affect the accuracy of the results. Realizing the conditions are not optimized for each fan, the conditions are the same for all fans, so it should basically be apples to apples. My intention was just to see what fan put out the most air and hopefully provide the best cooling for the cruiser. What do you think?
Bill
Fans are optimized to a certain flow, being able to put out big flow numbers without restriction won't do any good for cooling the truck, so the data is useless? The fans job is to develop a negative pressure/vacuum in the shroud to pull air through the radiator, measuring the output of the fan may not tell much, because it's not taking into account air that's recirculating/leaking around the edges of the fan and through the clutch? Measuring the flow pulled from the front side and the vacuum pressure in the shroud would get better data?
The easiest way I see to do it is to put a piece of wood in front that is about two inch larger than the opening in all directions, attach it with about half an inch spacers so the air is pulled in around the edges and put a/some hole/s to use the airflow meter from the front. you may need to adjust the spacers/holes to approximate the airflow to what it is on the truck. Use the locked clutch so the rpm can be controlled.
If you do this I predict that the air flow will become more complicated, you will see backwards flow through the fan clutch and maybe around the edge of the ring shroud fan.
Fans eat air, the more you give them the more power it takes to drive them. The easiest way to test this is with a shop vac, put an amp meter on the power cord and a vacuum gauge on the input, run the vac without a hose, record the vacuum reading and amps, then restrict the flow, the airflow will fall, the vacuum will rise and the amps will fall, if you close the intake, the flow will be zero, the motor RPMs will race, the vacuum will be high and the amps will be the lowest! If you pulled the fan out of it's housing, giving unlimited air, the airflow reading would be the highest, almost no vacuum and the amp reading would be the highest.
This is why the shroud and "seals" are so important, controlling the air so the fan only sees what air is being used to cool the system, any extra air only costs power and overloads the clutch at the expense of cooling. The seal at the shroud, radiator to core support, hood to core support and the tin pan under the radiator all prevent air from recirculating.
The blade tip to shroud interaction is critical, on an nonringed (standard 80) fan the tips of the blades cause a radial airflow that blows against the parallel part of the shroud causing a high pressure turbulent seal between the fan and shroud, the most efficient design would have the parallel "stovepipe" portion of the shroud as long as the depth of the blades. If the blade is set too deep that flow will blow into the shroud and recirculate, if too shallow the flow will blow outside of the shroud, but will leak air back into the shroud. Both setups will produce big airflow numbers behind the fan and require lots of power, won't pull much air through the radiator!
I hope my feeble ramblings make some kind of sense!
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