Extreme Outback's Ultimate Puncture Repair Kit (1 Viewer)

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NLXTACY

NLXTACY

Wits' End
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So I was in the market to get a tire repair kit. I plan on only carrying one spare and with a 4000 mile Canada trip coming at the end of August I wanted to get the basics covered in case I get a flat for any reason.

I currently have a 10# CO2 tank but I'm a little uneasy with only having one OBA solution. Now that I have an S/C coming my way the York OBA is out so that leaves me with electrical. After some thinking, I've pretty much decided that I am going with the ARB compressor being as I am eventually going ARB in the back anyway. So ARB's compressor and Slee's mount kit are in my future.

I have a 48" hi-lift plus the stock Toyota jack and tools. So getting the tire off and filling it is covered. I seem to always lose valve caps so I found these that I really like and now both trucks have them:
01. No Loss Tire Caps

So all that really left me with is actual tire repair. What if I don't need to take it off and I can just make a puncture repair? So I thought about getting ARB's puncture kit:
ARB Speedy Seal Puncture Repair Kit

For me it was just too small, limiting really. I wanted something that would not only take care of my needs but of everyone within the group I happened to be with. So I found this:
01. Ultimate Puncture Repair Kit

This pack has everything you could need for a few dozen punctures and can probably cure everything except tread separation. The Military type pouch its in and handy although I wonder if putting it in a hard case wouldn't be safer for it all. Not sure yet.

In the set in also includes a pencil gauge which are all trash. I have an ARB deflator gauge but its home is with the CO2 stuff. So now trying to decide what gauge to use with this kit in case I need to hike the kit in and I forget the gauge. Who knows.

The price is a little steep at $90 but to be honest it probably saves you a bunch of time trying to assemble the entire kit yourself.

Anything else you would recommend to have for tire repair?
tire-repair1.jpg
tire-repair2.jpg
 
Nice kit, I like the bag. But you might want to look at the industry standard. Safety Seal.

Safety Seal - Tire Repair

I have one in every vehicle. They work great. I wind up using it on other drivers though! I think you'll find the arb a bit slow for filling tires. Did you consider Extremeaire's compressor? You can use it for arb as well, just use a shunt of sorts to knock down the pressure. (I have the 3/4 hp because the largest one wasn't on the market then)
 
The safety seal kit has nothing on the extreme outback kit. EO took every tire repair component they could find and tested it all to find the best possible of everything. They chose the best plug tool, the best plugs, the best patches, etc.
 
Oh yeah, one other thing you can include, if you don't already have it on your truck, is a rachet strap to help reseating a bead.
 
solidfrontaxle said:
The safety seal kit has nothing on the extreme outback kit. EO took every tire repair component they could find and tested it all to find the best possible of everything. They chose the best plug tool, the best plugs, the best patches, etc.
Click to expand...

Yeah I think the Safety Seal One IS the ARB one. And those seem pretty specialized.
 
solidfrontaxle said:
Oh yeah, one other thing you can include, if you don't already have it on your truck, is a rachet strap to help reseating a bead.
Click to expand...

Yeah I have a separate ratchet strap in my recovery bag. I could also use some type of propellant :hmm:
 
FJ40_owner said:
And an inner tube. We carry an inner tube as well as the rachet strap and poke-y plugs.
The inner tube will help if you have a side wall flat.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I actually never thought of that. Any places you folks would recommend before I randomly pick from the internets?
 
Gempler's handles Tire Rivets. They work at the edge of the tread and in the sidewall. They are an interior patch with a plug that is pulled into the hole. This helps them stay in place when used at the tread edge and in the sidewall. Gempler's also handles a full range of tire repair supplies and tools. Even big sized patches.

Every so often I can't get a Safety Seal plug to work. High pressure and close to the edge of the tread often don't work with them. That is when I use the Tire Rivets. Actually every time I have a tire dismounted I swap all plugs for Tire Rivets as the tire rivets hold much better.
 
From some conversations with northerners, the most common tire failure is a gash from the large sized gravel/stones used to make the roads. Those are generally not repairable.:frown: Choose a tire with strong sidewalls.
 
solidfrontaxle said:
Oh yeah, one other thing you can include, if you don't already have it on your truck, is a rachet strap to help reseating a bead.
Click to expand...

Yep, wrap the sucker around the circumference of the tire and tighten it down. It will help push the beads out some. Bead lubricants and sealers also help allot. I find I can often get the beads to seat with lubricant and bouncing the tire and or wiggling the wheel some. Water will help in a pinch.
 
I recommend the safety seal kit for the following reason:

- in order for you to patch up the tire from the INSIDE, you need to break the bead, pry one sidewall out so that you can access the hole. Then using a die grinder, rough it up a bit and then apply the seal from the inside. Then, you need to put the sidewall back inside the rim, set the bead using LOTS of air.

Most of us don't have this ability to do this on the trail or even in our garage. So, paying the extra $45 for materials that you can't use it pointless to me. All we're going to be able to use is the plug kit which is essentially what Safety Seal provides.

My .02 cents.
 
The problem with the rope type plugs is they don't always hold. I use them first because they are so quick and if they don't hold I do the tire rivet and at that point pull all the rope plugs from the tire and change them to rivets. I have to deal with lots of long thorns so I'm plugging tires all the time. The closer to the edge of the tread the higher the failure rate of the rope type plugs. This includes the safety seal ones. On sidewalls they just don't work, but if the sidewall is thick enough, like a tractor tire, they can serve as a temporary patch for a thorn hole. High pressure tires, 70 + PSI, like you use on a 3/4 ton pickup in back and trailers also have high rope plug failure rates.

As for tools, tire irons, $63 for a set of three. You can do it with only two, but it goes faster with three. A vice grips clamped to the rim can serve as the third. Bead breaking is the hard part. I couldn't always get the hammers to work. I use a manual bead breaker like this one: Tire Bead Breaker -- Manual, Tires & Supplies - GEMPLER'S (photo 1) The catch is they cost $175, or $535 for an air wrench drivable one, but they are worth it to have if you have to break beads even a few times a year. It will break the bead on any tire up to and including large tractor tires. Using a hammer you drive the foot in between the rim and tire bead. Then you set the claw catch so it doesn't come off. Next you use a wrench to drive the middle part of the foot down which breaks the bead. The hardest part is getting the wedge foot inbetween the rim and bead. This is the tire iron I use: 18" long, 11/16" stock Drop-center Tire Spoon - GEMPLER'S (photo 2) It's $21, 18" long and has a wavy tip that helps catch the rim and make getting tubeless tires off easier. It's not recommended for tubed tires but will do if you are careful. The curved tip likes to catch the inner tube. A couple of extra large flat bladed screwdrivers also works nicely as tire irons. Any ones over 12 inches long and 3/8" shank will do. Ratchet wrench handles and breaker bars are often to thick but can work on larger tires. I've used large wrenches too. The Toyota jack handles also should work and you got three of them.
tire-bead-breaker-145883.jpg
long-stock-drop-6G.jpg
 
Yup those would work. Your $90 investment just escalated up to $250!

I have the bead breaker for hi lift jack and it's sole purpose is to break the bead near the valve stem so that I can field swap out a broken valve stem.

Be realistic on your expectations for field fixes.
 
alia176 said:
Yup those would work. Your $90 investment just escalated up to $250!

I have the bead breaker for hi lift jack and it's sole purpose is to break the bead near the valve stem so that I can field swap out a broken valve stem.

Be realistic on your expectations for field fixes.
Click to expand...

Well I'm getting this stuff together because of a Canada trip I'm taking with my son at the end of summer for 3 weeks which will be about 4000 miles through highway and non-highway. Just trying to be pragmatic. Also thinking about it because when we do expedition trips with our local club I want to be able to help out the newbies in the pack. Plus we have Randy88FJ62. I've never met someone with so many tire issues :D
 
NLXTACY said:
and also this bead breaker:
beadbuster.gif

01. Extreme Outback Beadbuster
Click to expand...

I like the idea of using the high lift jack. Thinking about it I don't think that special plate is needed. Just use a block of wood or even pull the jack's foot off and wrap the end with a rag. With a high enough side wall, just use the jack's foot. You could even use the standard jack.
 
I still think you should have more than one spare. Could you borrow one from a friend?
 
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