Engine Options? (1 Viewer)

[Scota4570]

My '70, see avatar, has a 1966 Chevy 292 straight 6. That particular engine has always been a problem. It does not cool properly, never did, for 30 years. I suspect clogged coolant passages were not cleaned when it was rebuilt in 1980. It has a possible bearing knock sound under certain conditions. As I have addressed drivability issues and got it going down the road in an acceptable way, the engine issues have reappeared on the punch list.

Out here in California, shops that still rebuild engines are few and far between. The old guys are all retired. I found one in Fresno, a long drive for me, that is asking $7000 do do the job. That appears to be the "not interested in your job price" They all want me to bring the long block to them on a pallet. I am not equipped to do that.

I think that I want to stay with the 292. It has a great reputation. Going back the F1 would be a treasure hunt and require the same rebuild job. And, the F1 was and inferior design. The F2 would be better but is not original to the vehicle, just like the 292.

IF I had a the room I would rebuild it myself. But I don't. How about something like this? ATK Engines DC81: Remanufactured Crate Engine for 1967-1985 Chevy/GM Truck, SUV, Car, & Van - JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/DC81/10002/-1 Are there better places to buy a long block crate engine?

Suggestions sought. Thanks

 

[charliemeyer007]

Interesting. I would want to know more about what parts they put in, as in made in USA vs say china. Does it have hardened valve seat for unleaded? Oh and maybe they will have it by July, bet they want money now tho. Intermittent rod knock doesn't sound good for long term. I'd keep looking. I was going to build a corvette 283 to put in mine. 350 chevy are everywhere and can be cheap.

 

[fireflyr]

If you like the Chevy straight six then go for it. Jegs is a good company and stands by their products. I'd also buy the extended warranty, it's good insurance if something is to go wrong.
Finding an F or 2F is tough and it will still cost a lot more than that to rebuild. It cost me $2500 15 years ago to rebuild my F.5 ('73 transition engine).

 

[pb4ugo]

Idk, it seems JEGs has a good reputation, the rebuilders warranty advertises 3yr unlimited miles. Jaspers is 3yr 100k miles. I've heard of the rebuilder but don't know anybody who has used them. My guess is they probably have 1 on the shelf. They probably won't tell you the components used or the specs. I'm sure there's similar builders out there.

 

[Scota4570]

The truck is already converted to the 292. There should be no head scratching. I like the idea of a big high torque low RPM engine. A high revving lower torque V8 seems to me to be less suitable for my style of off road driving. I'll call the crate engine companies and get a feel for them and ask the suggested questions.

 

[EWheeler]

The truck is already converted to the 292. There should be no head scratching. I like the idea of a big high torque low RPM engine. A high revving lower torque V8 seems to me to be less suitable for my style of off road driving. I'll call the crate engine companies and get a feel for them and ask the suggested questions.

I would look for a good cheap runner to swap in, and then spend some time looking for the right shop to rebuild the one you removed. They are out there.....

 

[pb4ugo]

The truck is already converted to the 292. There should be no head scratching. I like the idea of a big high torque low RPM engine. A high revving lower torque V8 seems to me to be less suitable for my style of off road driving. I'll call the crate engine companies and get a feel for them and ask the suggested questions.

Idk, where your getting your #'s from. A basic search shows the 292 is anywhere from 120 to 170hp and 225-275ftlbs depending on the carb. A std stk gm replacement 350 with 260hp has approx 350ftlbs if you can find one. Later GM sbc's have more hp and torque. You can get new from GM, not a rebuilt sbc. Swapping to a V8 will certainly be more than just the engines cost. I've been running and enjoying sbc's in my 40 for decades.

 

[Wasatch Jay]

I've been away from the forum for a time, but I'm leery of crate engines from many rebuilders, Jasper and Jegs included. Standards are not specifically defined, and their profit margin is determined by how little they can get away with. Conversely, I'd trust a crate engine from GM.

Looking at the Jeg's link, one person asked about the overbore and the answer was "as little as possible". To me thats a lame answer. Yeah, it might be "as little as possible", but you could get a block bored .060 over. Do they sleeve blocks as well? How much will they turn a crankshaft? The engine you receive could very easily be un rebuildable, if need be. Meanwhile, you've sent them a good core.

Let's think about cylinder heads and valves. When a valve guide is worn somewhat, it's cheaper to knurl the guide rather than replace it, but it's a more short term solution. If that get's you past the warranty period - they're happy, but how about you?

As charliemeyer007 asked, whose components are they using, high quality ones or cheap-as-possible from China? And if you do need warranty service, my guess is they'll warranty the engine at their sole discretion, and you get to pay shipping both ways.

pb4ugo makes good points... as always.

 

[1911]

... I'm leery of crate engines from many rebuilders, Jasper and Jegs included. Standards are not specifically defined, and their profit margin is determined by how little they can get away with.

This. Many years ago, I bought a reman crate engine (Buick aluminum v6) from a big-name - high volume local builder, because it was for the family car and and I couldn't have it down long enough to rebuild it myself. Started it the first time, and it had a bad miss and a ton of water through the tail pipe. Someone had been in a hurry, and a corner of one of the head gaskets was bent over and torqued down that way.

And if you do need warranty service, my guess is they'll warranty the engine at their sole discretion, and you get to pay shipping both ways.

The reman company would only warranty the part (the head gasket), not any labor to replace it, since I installed the engine myself. Of course, it was way easier for me just to replace the gasket myself than to remove the whole engine and haul it back to them.

Lesson learned!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

My '70, see avatar, has a 1966 Chevy 292 straight 6. That particular engine has always been a problem. It does not cool properly, never did, for 30 years. I suspect clogged coolant passages were not cleaned when it was rebuilt in 1980. It has a possible bearing knock sound under certain conditions. As I have addressed drivability issues and got it going down the road in an acceptable way, the engine issues have reappeared on the punch list.

Out here in California, shops that still rebuild engines are few and far between. The old guys are all retired. I found one in Fresno, a long drive for me, that is asking $7000 do do the job. That appears to be the "not interested in your job price" They all want me to bring the long block to them on a pallet. I am not equipped to do that.

I think that I want to stay with the 292. It has a great reputation. Going back the F1 would be a treasure hunt and require the same rebuild job. And, the F1 was and inferior design. The F2 would be better but is not original to the vehicle, just like the 292.

IF I had a the room I would rebuild it myself. But I don't. How about something like this? ATK Engines DC81: Remanufactured Crate Engine for 1967-1985 Chevy/GM Truck, SUV, Car, & Van - JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/DC81/10002/-1 Are there better places to buy a long block crate engine?

Suggestions sought. Thanks

I just went from a 307 sbc to a 2f. mine is a 1964 and would have had a f135. Good luck trying to find parts for that though. Thats why I went 2f. It looks really good under the hood and it is toyota not chevy. Nothing wrong with the sbc its just not my cup of tea. Ironically I thought about finding a 292. ye be warned it is alot of working going back to a toyota motor. I am majorly happy I did though. I should be able to take my first drive since the swap today.

Id say the biggest plus other than more power and better mpg to a SBC is the ability to find parts. If you break down Napa or somthing like that will probibly have what you need. The 292 is a little harder to find things I feel like these days.

 

[Scota4570]

I found a car club that focuses on straight 6 engines. One of the officers has offered to help me in my quest. We are thinking of buying a long block that is already rebuilt. We are looking for a core to send. Once I have the rebuilt long block, I can swap engines and sell my old engine as a core. That is the plan for now.

I spoke to these guys, the seem to be the real deal. GMC-292LB - https://www.sandjengines.com/searchproducts/enginesearch/GMC-292LB Any experience of feedback on them?

 

[BOBWhite74]

Occasional bearing knock? Overheating? Do you think your knocking could be spark knock? Not doubting you but I think you might need to do some more investigating before searching for a new motor. Checked oil pressure? Spark timing? Compression?
These 292s are pretty simple I would look over the whole engine before you make your decision. A lot of these motors were used in Ag and irrigation stuff too so Id look there if you want a cheep motor.

 

[Scota4570]

The knock started after my father tried to kill the engine in frustration. It was running about 300*. He drove it into a creek. Strange noises happened. I think that was the exhaust manifold cracking. Since then it cooled better. We inferred that something bused loose in the engine cooling passages.

When I worked as an irrigator they did use these engines in booster pumps. I tried an ag company that used to service them. I was looking for the exhaust manifold; they had nothing and could not get it. The California Air Resources people are trying to phase out ICE engines in AG.

We tried every conceivable fix and diagnosis strategy over the years on the regarding the over-heating issue without success. At one time we tried dual radiators and a giant flex fan with the smallest pulley that fit. IT still overheated.

As of now, I recently set the timing and point’s gap. I need to check the compression and will do so. I had the radiator serviced recently. The coolant is full of rust despite repeated flushing's. I currently have a 14" fan that is well below center of the radiator. I used to have a home made shroud. I took it out at the urging or somebody who should have known better. I think that was a mistake.

I was shopping a 19" flex fan yesterday. 19" would fit. That should move a lot more air. I'd prefer not to use an electric fan. I am suspicious of the water pump.

Has anyone filled an engine/radiator with Evapo-Rust? I bet that would get the rust out and not harm anything. What do I have to loose?

 

[Scota4570]

The compression is from 1 to 6 cylinders, measured with a cold engine, 140, 140, 140, 145, 150, and 148.

The points gap was a smidge to small. I also re-gapped the plugs. Then set the timing 4* BTDC with the advance disconnected. Seems to run smooth. Oil pressure is good. IT still has that slight knock at low RPM.

The plugs had some black soot on them. The carb is probably sketchy. The truck smells of gas for a while after I drive it.

 

[BOBWhite74]

Those 292s seemed to run a LONG time as irrigation motors before needing to be rebuilt, only comparable gasoline motor that size was the Ford 300. Have you considered finding headers for it for replacing your manifold?

Head gaskets aren't all that expensive for these motors so I would pop off the head and see what's going on with the cooling system. They may have used different head gaskets throughout the years and your might have the wrong one, blocking off a lot of head coolant ports.

 

[Scota4570]

I had no idea this actually existed! Restore Your Engine’s Cooling System | CRC EVAPO-RUST® - https://www.evapo-rust.com/restore-your-engines-cooling-system/ Miracle in a bottle? I'm going to try it.

I have a larger fan coming too. If it still runs hot I will pull the head.

As for the knock, I guess I can push it down deep and see what happens. It is not severe. Worst case it gets worse and I get a new engine or rebuild this one.

Could a bad carb be causing a knock like sound? It currently has a one barrel Rodchester "B". I read that the Rodchesters were not great. Are any of the Chinesium carbs worth buying?