EGR bypass question (1 Viewer)

[albert110]

I am curious about the long term consequence of bypassing the EGR system but leaving everything in place while driving the truck. Specifically, I'd like to know people's thoughts on whether I run the risk of overly clogging, damaging, or otherwise mucking up the EGR if I leave it in place but bypass it and drive for several months. My plan is to keep all the smog gear operational and bring everything up to spec by going through the emissions manual, etc. However, I'd really like to tackle a few other things first if possible,and since I'm not a mechanic, there's a lot of learning I have to do for each project... Combine that with a 1 year old and my pace for getting things done is really slow.
So basically the question is: If my truck drives really well with the EGR bypassed like in the FSM, would it be stupid for me to drive like this for a couple months (let's say max 2,000 miles) while I tackle other stuff, or am I asking for trouble?

 

[Output Shaft]

Disconnecting the EGR valve won't gunk up the valve because no exhaust is flowing through it. The engine will detonate (ping) though at higher rpms and light throttle. You may not hear it.
Use premium fuel.

Swap the inner vac hose on the distributor to the outer vacuum actuator, and plug the hose that you removed.
That will retard the vacuum advance timing from 16° to 6°. Maybe tweak up the mechanical advance a tad after that. (Advance the timing).

Not an ideal solution, and there is a very real risk of burning exhaust valves if the timing is too out of whack.

 

[albert110]

Thanks for the explanation. I should probably understand how to adjust the dizzy for normal operation before I go modding it to compensate for something else that I changed... I'm all for learning things the hard way but burning up valves seems like a pretty steep price to pay.
Whelp, looks like it's time to get cozy with the emissions manual, thanks again!

 

[stoshzack]

@albert110 - I am going through this emissions stuff right now on my 60. Here is what I learned so far:

1) Make sure your vacuum lines are good and that all are connected.
2) Check your VCVs according to emissions manual - you have two, one on either side of the engine. They are white. You need a vacuum pump to test. Both mine were bad.
3) Check you VSVs according to emissions manual - you have three right around the EGR valve. You need an Ohm meter and resistance should be within spec in manual. I had two bad.

If you can, ask sellers to test both VCVs and VSVs before you buy. I have a bag full of junk as half the stuff I bought tested bad.

I think testing this stuff is the easiest place to start and it is pretty straight forward. Not a lot of work involved. Make sure you label the vacuum lines when you pull the stuff off to test.

Good luck

 

[albert110]

@stoshzack, thanks a ton for the suggestions. As luck would have it I just finished replacing all of the vacuum lines. I did them one at a time to make sure I didn't connect them wrong, but I thought a good first order of business would be to check the connections against the schematics in the FSM to guard against any PO mistakes.
I'm hoping that it's something simple like a VSV. When I first replaced the vacuum line she ran like a champ for three days and then the stumbling came back. My first instinct was that the new increase in vacuum pressure caused a failure somewhere else, I'm hoping it's something relatively simple ...

 

[Landpimp]

I run the 60(and 40) with EGR bypassed, I left the timing alone and run premium and no pinging, but did get a bit when I ran regular.