Cruise Control OBD (1 Viewer)

[CaptainKirk]

Does pulling the fuses reset the ECM or is there something else that needs to be done to do this? I'm hoping that I found my problem. Red wire with green stripe going to the actuator was severed...anyone know what this wire is? Going to put a butt connector on it and try to clear the faults and try again.

Obviously broken wires are best repaired! Thee manual calls for pulling the top right fuse in the dash fuse block for a minimum of 10 seconds to clear the cruise ECU. Good Luck!

 

[CaptainKirk]

Once you initiate the test with the lever in the set/coast postion, you're NOT supposed to do anything else with the key. Just proceed through the rest of the steps.

Curtis:

I know you are correct and I actually did it both ways with the same result. Are you going to test your acuator with a 12 supply?

 

[Dbarr4lsu]

Obviously broken wires are best repaired! Thee manual calls for pulling the top right fuse in the dash fuse block for a minimum of 10 seconds to clear the cruise ECU. Good Luck!

Argh! Fixed the wire and reset ECU and still get the blinking light. Here's hoping you and I have the same issue cause I get the feeling you are persistent enough to figure this out. Just hope it's not an expensive fix.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Argh! Fixed the wire and reset ECU and still get the blinking light. Here's hoping you and I have the same issue cause I get the feeling you are persistent enough to figure this out. Just hope it's not an expensive fix.

Dbarr4lsu:

Theck out this url : 

I'd like to ask you this favor: take out the 10MM bolt holding the actuator harness in place, unplug the male actuator plug from the female/harness, then apply 12 volts to the MALE pins 6 & 7. They are the two pins at the 6:00 position with the plug clip at 12:00. The link will show you how to do this. You'll have to copy and paste the above into your browser or it won't work....most likely.

With postive and ground leads and voltage applied, then rotate the silver arm under the black arm where the cable attaches to see if the motor fires up and when you max the arm rotation, does it then shut of the motor. If yes, then reverse the pos and neg leads coming from the battery to reverse the polarity, and do the same thing. I need to see if the arm at max rotation shuts off the motor on both polarities. Make sense?

I've ordered the regulators as the attached link so kindly points out and I am curious if you have the same results with the above test?

 

[Dbarr4lsu]

Dbarr4lsu:

Theck out this url : 

I'd like to ask you this favor: take out the 10MM bolt holding the actuator harness in place, unplug the male actuator plug from the female/harness, then apply 12 volts to the MALE pins 6 & 7. They are the two pins at the 6:00 position with the plug clip at 12:00. The link will show you how to do this. You'll have to copy and paste the above into your browser or it won't work....most likely.

With postive and ground leads and voltage applied, then rotate the silver arm under the black arm where the cable attaches to see if the motor fires up and when you max the arm rotation, does it then shut of the motor. If yes, then reverse the pos and neg leads coming from the battery to reverse the polarity, and do the same thing. I need to see if the arm at max rotation shuts off the motor on both polarities. Make sense?

I've ordered the regulators as the attached link so kindly points out and I am curious if you have the same results with the above test?

Kirk, wow, that is a bunch of good information. I have not used my soldering iron in 7 years or more when I was working for Applied Materials. I'm not sure when I am going to get a chance this week to get a battery and a couple of wires to check, but I will definitely do it as soon as I can.

 

[Dbarr4lsu]

Kirk, I got it pulled out and put it on a 12V source and the servo spun but there was never any hard stop hit. It did not spin the upper gears (removed cap and verified). When I switched polarity, the motor did not operate. Looks like I need to dig deeper to see why the upper gears are not rotating...any thoughts.

 

[Dbarr4lsu]

Just clicked that I needed to rotate the arm to get the motor to operate when I switched the polarity.

 

[rbdave]

hi Guys,Hoping you are still on this thread.My cruise control died, 1996 series 80, and I have performed the tests on this thread, and cant get any light at all to go on, relating to the cruise control.After pulling the fuse for 10 seconds, where is the next place to start?Thanks !

Just clicked that I needed to rotate the arm to get the motor to operate when I switched the polarity.

 

[fjgoober]

CJF

Thanks for posting the link to jump over to this thread. I found it later in the eveing and attempted the checks. Got to #3 before having to go back and reread to make sure I was understanding the checks/procedures.

Will find out more today when the wife brings by her 80 at lunch. The only time she has ever told me to get on mud was last night when she was having a problem with her 80! Every time prior to that it's "You're on the %#**#$#$ 4 wheel drive web-site!



This is frustrating as heck as it just started to show up sporadically. I'm suspecting a fouled speed sensor?

 

[CJ the man]

Thanks for the thread CJF. I failed step 4 in this procedure. The light doesn't blink above 25 mph... What does that indicate? Bad Speed Sensor? Also where is the speed sensor?

Thanks,

Cary

 

[CJF]

Thanks for the thread CJF. I failed step 4 in this procedure. The light doesn't blink above 25 mph... What does that indicate? Bad Speed Sensor? Also where is the speed sensor?

Yup; bad (likely gear oil fouled) sensor. It's attached to the speedo near the rear of the transfer case on the driver's side.

 

[CJF]

In which case, order these parts:

 

[CJ the man]

Ha! What a coincidence, I was gonna post a reply with a pic but you beat me to it! This thing was caked in oil/dirt but I cleaned it up so I could see if there was a part number on it.
Anyways, here ya go...

 

[CJ the man]

Well I think I have found a problem... I was putting in the old sensor and i noticed that the cable (I imagine it rotates with the gear) that goes into the sleeve was loose... Loose as in i could pull it out. I don't know that much about this engine/trans. but I do believe there is a break in the cable or the other end.
I can't see where the cable goes, it goes to the top of the transmission toward the engine compartment but I cant see anything beyond a couple of feet.

Any ideas?

Thanks

EDIT:
I took the cable all the way out... Looked like it may be designed to do that... It may be normal but I'm not quite sure. I'm just a rookie.

 

[CJF]

That's the speedometer cable ya doof.

Put it back...

 

[CJ the man]

That's the speedometer cable ya doof.

Put it back...

nnno!

haha, it still works... guess its not broken...

 

[bryson]

Mine is a 96 Cruiser with non-functioning cruise (light comes on, but no other part of the system seems to function at all,) and have performed the tests as described in the FSM, and by CJF in numerous threads... My cruise light never blinks - not even when it should.

I put it into test mode by holding the stalk to "set" and then press the on button, and the light comes on. I release the stalk - light stays solid. I push the stalk back down to "set" and release - still a solid light. I push the stalk up to "resume" and release - still a solid light. I pull the stalk toward me to "cancel" and release - light stays solid.

Does this mean the stalk itself could be bad? Any thoughts?

TIA.

 

[CJF]

I put it into test mode by holding the stalk to "set" and then press the on button, and the light comes on. I release the stalk - light stays solid. I push the stalk back down to "set" and release - still a solid light. I push the stalk up to "resume" and release - still a solid light. I pull the stalk toward me to "cancel" and release - light stays solid.

Depending on what you mean by the above, you may be doing the test incorrectly.

Once you're in test mode, you need to push the stalk to "set" (or "resume" or "cancel") and hold it there; that's when you should see the flashes. *Then* release, and the light should go back to solid.

 

[bryson]

Depending on what you mean by the above, you may be doing the test incorrectly.

Once you're in test mode, you need to push the stalk to "set" (or "resume" or "cancel") and hold it there; that's when you should see the flashes. *Then* release, and the light should go back to solid.

Ok. The way I wrote it was wrong then. I did try the test both ways, still with no flashes.

Oddly enough, part of my cruise control system started working the other day. I can set the speed, and it seems to hold fine, but the resume/accel part still won't work. Still makes me think there are bad contacts/issues with the actual switch on the steering wheel... What say you?

 

[Robert Harper]

My cruise control failed diagnostics with the speed sensor too. I removed the sensor and reconnected the speedometer cable. All the cruise control speed sensor does is pass through with via shaft to the speedometer cable. I guess they did it this way due to some models not having cruise control. I do not care about cruise control but wanted to know what was wrong. The speed sensor is cracked. I probably won't replace it unless I can find one cheap. I don't use cruise control off road.