Cooter’s Revenge: Vorteq FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[bush]

This will be an ongoing thread starting with a 5.3L Vortec swap and OME lift. Who knows where it will go from there. At this point, it is being mostly daily driven and the swap is finished. I am still working out bugs, etc but things are slowing down so I have time for the thread.

Some history is required…

Had a jeep for a long time, it morphed from something that could be driven daily to full width axles, stretched frame and 38’s over a short period of time. When I moved to the city a few years ago, I had to sell it. I miss that ride. Fast forward a few years and kids and I want to get my family to the great outdoors a little more, I would like to do some light wheeling every now and then as well as be able to get to some more remote locations. I started looking for a family hauler / daddy fun / camping rig. I knew I wanted solid front axle and really wanted to stay away from uni-body. I looked long and hard for an early 4-Runner when I stumbled across this beauty. Didn’t know much about FJ60’s other than I had seen one here and there. These things have major cool factor. A little research, some money changed hands and I drove her home with little to no brakes. I poked around and from what I found coupled with what the seller told me it was a barn find that had been parked when the head gasket blown. The seller had done a handful of things to refresh it but it was still pretty rough.

Picture as I bought it on December 21st, 2013.

Needless to say, I was excited.

Decided to call it Cooter because I got it from a guy named Cooter. It even came with a cool Cooter’s garage tag. I usually just call it ‘The Cruiser’, but it does have a name.

 

[bush]

Money was tight so I started fixing little things. Didn’t take me long to find ih8mud and start digging. The interior was in bad shape, tried to clean up the hack job de-smog that had been done on it. Replaced or refurbished the entire brake system. A bunch of little things. It still didn’t run well, but it ran. I was, however, disappointed with what the 2F could provide. I have taken a few multiple hour trips in it and experienced first hand the inability to pull a hill at highway speed and the inability to hit the passing lane. I also discovered that the fuel tank was full of rust and the recall had been done...Boooo! The distributor needed rebuilt and possibly re-curved, the carburetor was missing the fuel cutoff solenoid and the carb fan had caught fire at some point. I pretty much decided to have the tank restored and put one of those fuel injection kits on it and drive it.

I was doing a little saving to go that route when one of my neighbors stopped one day and asked what it would take for him to take it home. I had been asked multiple times and always shrugged the offer away but this time I told him where I stood on it, what my plans were and threw a number out there. He bit. I was uneasy but good with the decision. I had already decided to go and find another FJ. I guess I was hooked.

The next day I pulled it out and decided to give it a wash and go over it to make sure it was ready to be sold. After running for about 20 minutes, I started hearing something strange. A knock from the back of the engine. The longer it ran, the louder it got. I drained the oil and saw the sheen. I pulled the pan and found something that looked like a brillo pad in the oil pump screen. I didn’t feel the need to look any farther. TOAST…

Here I come ih8mud for some research. Building the 2F was almost as expensive as a V8 swap? I could get 300 HP for just a little more $$ than building the original engine? What?

I am NO purist, this was an easy decision. I guess that I had been looking for an excuse the whole time and I was about to make this thing what I wanted it to be. A solid capable platform with room for the family and plenty of power.

This was around July 2015.

 

[bush]

I worked on it sporadically from July to February got close to finishing and went full tilt through March. Exhaust was installed in early April. Kids and other obligations prevent me from devoting serious time in large chunks. I also had to keep the truck from looking like a project as it sits in the driveway so after I pulled the engine, I put the clip back on with 6 bolts and let it look like it is complete (except for the nose in the air ). I suck at taking pictures along the way and have tried to capture as much as possible. I will write as I go through the pictures and try to capture anything I can to add detail.

I started by digging through mud for all the V8 conversions I could find and put together a list and started adding estimated costs. I really want to share this as the build progresses because I never really got a solid answer anywhere else on exactly what it cost to do the swap, just generalities. There are still threads popping up here and there wrt this subject. I still need to figure out the best way to post it. Document is currently here on google drive and needs serious updates to reconcile my spending and to add detail where i can. A link to the seriously incomplete spreadsheet on google drive. It is set to viewing only with link and if this breaks things, I may have to figure something else out.

ls_swap.xlsx

I put some gross estimates in for some items with hopes that I could drive the costs down below my estimate, but I needed a baseline. I also really wanted to get as much as possible with my engine in hopes of adapting / reusing as much as possible. I called around to a few places that I would need to do specific things like relocate the radiator outlet/inlet and do driveshaft work and got ballpark estimates. I may not need some of it, but I included everything I could think of in the original plan.

 

[bush]

I have read quite a few threads on V8 swaps on mud and there is a lot of high quality work on display. One of the common things that is done for these swaps is to paint all components. Being in the budget swap mindset, I cannot justify buying all the rattle cans required to do this and I am not planning to devote the time required to get every last bit of gunk off each and every component along the way. Things will be sufficiently cleaned, but they will most likely not be shiny. This rig will be used, it will get dirty, and it is not a collector or show vehicle. I will fix what needs it and apply appropriate protection where I deem necessary, but I am saving that money for something else.

Once I had an estimate I started looking for parts. First things first, engine and transmission combo. I looked all over north and central Alabama and south Tennessee. By looked I mean scoured craigslist, ebay and called junkyards. I probably called 100 different yards (the internet is an amazing thing). Costs for a Gen III or IV Chevrolet small block with a 4l60e (determined this form mud info) ranged from 3500 to 500. I actually found a running cab and chassis in south Alabama with a 6.0L 4l80e combo with 250k for $400, but by the time I got it home and switched the trans to 4wd shaft I would be driving cost up ( and the 250k service truck portion worried me a bit). I went to a half a dozen yards and either heard engines run or looked at the donor. I settled on a 5.3L (L59) from a 2wd 2004 Tahoe. I was able to hear it run, look it over closely and feel the transmission pull. One of the reasons that I went with the one that I did was the guy guaranteed me that he would include everything that was attached to the engine without cutting. That meant I got the harness and PCM, PS lines, trans cooler lines, fuel lines to the tank, evap lines, flex fuel sensor, battery cables, fuse box, ac lines, breather box, brackets for fuse box and pcm. I wish I had asked for the evap components as I bet he would have thrown them in, but I didn’t. Oh well they shouldn’t be hard to find if I ever decide to add them, and no smog inspections in my state.


From here on pics will be plentiful...

The 5.3 with its new home in the background.

 

[bush]

Now it was time to pull the cruiser engine. Front clip comes off (I did it in pieces due to room constraints) and the engine comes out. I will have all of the leftover engine/trans/etc stuff up for sale at some point, but I am holding it for now just in case. I think that all I will need from the original setup is the oil pressure and coolant temp senders, ac lines, and ps line..

Another view... Tight quarters in my garage.

Old and New

 

[landcruiserjunky]

Nice!

 

[bush]

Rain forced me to start on the 5.3 instead of cleaning the engine compartment for the 60. I decided to do a complete reseal with all felpro gaskets. The get pretty good reviews from the LS crowd and there is a significant savings over OEM gaskets. I looked everything up on Amazon and went to AutoZone. I went down my Amazon shopping cart and was able to get a huge chunk at AutoZone for the similar prices, everything else I ordered and it was at my door a few days later.

I started pulling it down bit by bit, making sure to blow off debris as I went along and keep junk out of the engine. I put the injectors in a sea foam bath to remove the caked up carbon deposits. Front accessories came off and went to the sink for degreasing. All gaskets and seals replaced. After the reseal and clean-up of the front of the engine it was time to start on the back. So off the transmission came and in the air it went to be drained. Rear timing cover gasket and rear main seal replaced.

 

[bush]

Time for the AA transfer case adapter. I have read a bunch about this portion of the project and I have to say that it went fairly easy. All the other discussions along the way definitely helped me identify any issues. For prosperity's sake, I put the provided seal (double lipped, front of the t-case) with the spring side facing into the transfer case. I did this because there should be limited fluid on the transmission side at this point and the spring side usually goes toward the fluid which there should be more of on the transfer case side.

Getting ready.

I am supposed to cut somewhere close to here.

I could have sworn I had pictures of the cut in progress and finished. I may have to edit later to add those.

Adapter installed

All the riding toys in the background had to be moved in and out of the garage every time I needed to get some work finished.

I moved stuff around a LOT over the course of this project. One could also notice that Cooter is sitting on the other side of the driveway. I would drag it back with my truck up the hill in my driveway, put on the e brake, unhook the strap and then coast into the needed spot. Rinse wash repeat.

 

[bush]

A side note. My initial estimate included a transfer case rebuild kit, but the AA kit came with all the major gaskets for the transfer case. I inspected all the bearings and races in the transfer case and felt that they were good. So I whipped up a list of all the seals that the AA kit did not include and called Cruiser Outfitters. $$ savings. I am a little disappointed with the intermediate shaft o-rings that came in the AA kit. I felt that they were a little oversized and thin, but I was able to get them to seat by holding my mouth just right.

All put together.

 

[bush]

First fit went smoothly. As others have stated the 5.3L went in like it belonged in there. I cheated the engine towards the drivers side as far as possible ( about 2 inches) and tried to get things as high as possible. I really want to be as flat as possible underneath. The 1” body mount gave me some wiggle room and I think that I will be cutting a small section of floor under the center console to get the transfer case almost completely above the bottom of the frame rail. I may end up with about ½ inch below the rail. All of this was only for initial measurements and planning. I haven't really decided on what to do about the crossmember yet, but working on some designs. I also took some rough measurements for motor mounts and marked where to clean the frame.

 

[bush]

I went in and out with the engine a handfull of times before I was really satisfied with the placement. It occurred to me that if I had enough room, there would be no need for the oil pan swap. It was close, but I needed to be sure so once I was happy I went ahead and fish plated the frame and tacked in my motor mount hardware.


Passenger side

Drivers side

Then I called Bryce (Originally said Kurt because that's what all the posts say) at @cruiseroutfit and ordered up an OME. Heavy front and rear. I figured that the lift coupled with the engine height form the body lift and the drivers side cheat I was able to achieve might be just enough to clear the oil pan. I was NOT going to make things permanent until I knew for sure. And I wasn't going to know exactly how things were going to sit until I got the correct tires installed which required rims.

Of note is that Bryce (don't know his user name but please tell him thanks @cruiseroutfit !) is super knowledgeable and helpful. I actually had an issue with the machining on one of my OME shackles and Bryce had a replacement to me the next day.


I poked around a bit and eventually got in touch with Kyle at Toyota South Atlanta ( @Kyle Toyota OEM ) and he delivered on 5 FJ40 steel wheels and hubcaps.

A week later, it was all installed.

Yep, no oil pan needed.

 

[bush]

Forgot to mention, I got my motor mounts from Chassis Unlimited. I had some of the AA mounts in my jeep and those things were horrible and led to multiple broken transmission mounts before i did some major modifications to stabilize the forward and backward motion they would allow. Anyway, I liked the polybushing mount options and found a nice kit.

LS Motor Mount Kit - Chassis Unlimited

Add paint

I am neglecting the cross member, but it was being done at the same time. It will get a post of its own.

 

[bush]

Backing up a bit, here is a shot of the new OME springs sitting beside what was there.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

 

[bush]

And a few motor mount shots before paint installed in the engine.

I had to redo this one, but it got me there in a pinch.

I added the plates because the engine dropped between setting and welding. What had happend was that I had everything all set up and in place. I had to do some things (other than work on Cooter) and when I came back, I took a measurement and cut the tube. When I tacked everything up I could not figure out why the engine was crooked. Once i figured it out, HF engine hoist leaking down, I needed a temporary patch to get measurements for the crosss-member so I stuck some plates in there. The final version has a new correct length piece of tube.

 

[bush]

Cross member.... I decided that the simplest thing to do would be to keep the stock center section and sleeve the ends with some rectangular tube. Smooth the tube down at the frame rails and throw a bunch of gussets in there for strength.

Tacked up with one boxed end done, one to go.

I also cut the ends to follow the outside edge of the frame. You can see the angles here.

Close shot of the results of clamp, weld, beat, repeat.

Once I got the main body finished, I added the plate that would attach to the frame... tiny holes predrilled and some gussets to resist torsional motion.

Still one gusset to go

top view. The passenger side sleeve ( bottom in this picture) was a little crooked relative to the center section, but it isn't hurting anything.

Side view. As flat as I could get. I havent mentioned that I have about 1/4 inch of clearance between the top of the TC and the body.

Drilled and sleeved some 1/2" holes in the frame

Finished the gussets and closed up all the holes from the sleeves.

Add paint

Its that easy ,)

 

[bush]

AT this point i was glad to have the engine bolted in. The last two cross member pics were taken a little later, but were needed to show final install. Now it was time to install intake and do the wiring. I did all the wiring myself, re-pinned every single wire in the harness. It took a while. I could have done it faster, but I integrated an entirely new fusebox under the hood with lots of relays and individual circuits. I also integrated the cruiser wiring into the harness wherever possible.


I will add detail next week. I am off to take Cooter camping ( RV style) for the weekend. As a preview, this is what the wiring was like.

Harness dis-assembly in the LR floor. My wife is very understanding.

Which wire goes where?

 

[Kyle Toyota OEM]

Looks Great!

 

[bush]

Looks Great!

Thanks Kyle. I'll eventually get to a pic with the hubcaps installed.

 

[FJ62NY]

Great work! Loving the writeup! Subscribed!