Checklist for 22re turning over, not catching. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Threads
19
Messages
106
Location
San Marcos, TX
I'm going to pick up my 'new' 86 4runner this weekend. The engine's been rebuilt, but it's not starting (after sitting for a year). The battery has been charged, plugs and wires replaced, and it turns over but doesn't fire up.

I'd rather drive it home than tow it, so I'm building a checklist to diagnose the starting issue. I have this so far:

***********************

Problem............................................Troubleshoot

No spark............................................Touch wire to intake manifold, check for spark

Clogged fuel filter................................check the fuel filter

Fuel pump dead...................................???

Fuel pump not getting power..................???

Low pressure from pump......................???

************************

As you can see, I'm most concerned about fuel pump problems. I'm pretty confident in checking for plug / distributor cap / distributor issues. However, I have no idea how to diagnose fuel delivery problems (which seems most likely to be the problem).

Is there anywhere I can spray in some fluid to induce combustion, similarly to how you would with a carbureted engine?

Any help would be really appreciated. Also, I'm going to be talking to the owner on Friday, so if there are any questions I can ask to narrow down the possible issues, please suggest them.

Thanks,
Eric
 
It looks like the way to ensure that power is reaching the fuel pump is to short a couple pins in the diagnostic box to close the fuel pump circuit. Is this troubleshooting method viable for 1st gens?

Also, where might I be able to loosen a hose on the fuel rail to see if fuel is coming through when cranking?
 
I had the same issue

Look at the distributor cap inside for corrosion on the poles.
Check the rotor button is not too worn down as the gap from the tip of the rotor maybe to big for the spark to jump accross.
I replaced the dizzy cap and rotor button and bingo the engine fires.

Hope this helps. :)
 
Has it run at all since the rebuild? or was is put in the truck and sat for a year?

check that the green plug on the drivers fender well that supplies power to the coil is pluged in all the way, and correct.
(if it had a fresh rebuild, they might have forgotten to plug it back in when installing the motor.)

then check that the coil wire is supplying spark to the distributor.
then check that the plugs are getting spark individually.

if all that is there, and you are getting fuel, it should fire up.
if not, you may have a timing issue.

but you can bend some valves there if you dont know what you are doing, so i wouldnt go pulling the distributor to turn it, if you havent paid the man for the truck yet!!:hillbilly:
 
It was run for 2 years since the rebuilds (tranny, t-case, etc), for one month a year. The woman had to put in new batteries each year (don't know why she didn't just charge them), but this year it wouldn't start.

Is there any way to check for timing issues without ripping things apart?

And how would you check for fuel delivery in my position?
 
ok, for an 88 you can do the following, i am not sure about 86, but it should be all the same.
Are you familiar with these trucks at all? you are looking for the diagnostic check connector. if you dont know what it is, its a small black box on the passenger side fender well. it should be attached to the fuse box. (but it could have broken off from it like mine and is dangling). its about 1.5" by 1" and has a small loom of wires going into the bottom of it.

anyways, open up the little flip door thingy. in there you will see a diagram of all the little terminal connections. what you want to do is take a piece of wire or welding rod or similar. and short out the terminals labeled "+B" and "Fp". do this with the ignition on, but not cranking obviously.

you should be able to hear fuel noise from the fuel pressure regulator under the hood if its working. also have someone stick their head underneath the truck while you are doing this. you should also be able to hear the fuel pump in the tank humming too. if both of those things are working when the terminals are shorted, you should have fuel.
add spark and air ...and boom.
PS-MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE SHORTED TERMINAL WIRE BEFORE CRANKING UP THE TRUCK.
 
if you dont hear the fuel pump and the pressure regulator buzzing during that test, then there is limited things you can test without tearing into it. two fuses to check are the EFI fuse and the IGN fuse (15 amps and 7.5 amps respectively). those will cause it to not run too.
 
Def check the EFI fuse (drivers side of the cab under the dash) i had one go it took me way to long to figure out *DOH*. You should be able to hear your pump priming when you turn the key to on, not cranking, if you think it's not getting power check your open circuit relay (lingo?) located behind the glove compatment, or run a couple of wires from your battery to your pump connecter and try to start it when you know its running if this still doesn't work i'd say fuel isn't your problem and maybe check power coming into your ignition coil.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom