a couple weeks ago on my 93 HDJ80, I used low range and the centre diff locked and the dash light came on as expected. After tooling around in the snow for a little bit, I put it back in high range, but the diff light did not go out and the centre diff was definitely still locked, indicated by clicking noise from the front wheels and stiff movement on turns.
I tried all the driving tricks; I put it on a lift to let the wheels freewheel; I pulled the diff fuse; I jumpered the pins on the neutral switch on the trans, but alas nothing worked.
I ended up driving with it locked for a couple weeks, hoping the ligt would go out and the diff would finally unlock, but it never did. Yes I know there's a chance of drivetrain stress and damage, but it's my wife dd and if I take it away from her too long, there's a good chance of marital stress. A calculated risk all of us DIY'ers make at one point or another.
Anyhow, I finally found more time to spend on it, and finally got it unlocked. How? By disconnecting the wires to the actuator motor and probing the pins to find out what's what (wish I had a wiring diagram!), and through some trial and guesswork I applied pos and ground to the correct pins and - as luck would have it! -the motor disengaged the diff lock and the light went out. I left it disconnected so there's no risk of it locking again, until I figure out what to do next.
Could it be the relay behind the driver kick panel? I do hear it click when I shift into low range, but not when I shift into neutral or high.
Could it be the neutral switch on the transfer case? As I mentioned I disconnected the wires and crossed the terminals on the wire to the relay (if that's where it goes?) but that didn't unlock it.
I wish I had an FSM, but does anyone have a wiring diagram and a way to identify connector pins? Or maybe someone knows what I need to replace, but I'd like to be sure before I buy parts that I may not need.
BTW, does the clicking I heard on the left front wheel verify that my birf is worn, or toast? That one leaks a fair bit of grease, but I did refill it back in the summer. How much should I be concerned?
Any advice is appreciated!
I tried all the driving tricks; I put it on a lift to let the wheels freewheel; I pulled the diff fuse; I jumpered the pins on the neutral switch on the trans, but alas nothing worked.
I ended up driving with it locked for a couple weeks, hoping the ligt would go out and the diff would finally unlock, but it never did. Yes I know there's a chance of drivetrain stress and damage, but it's my wife dd and if I take it away from her too long, there's a good chance of marital stress. A calculated risk all of us DIY'ers make at one point or another.
Anyhow, I finally found more time to spend on it, and finally got it unlocked. How? By disconnecting the wires to the actuator motor and probing the pins to find out what's what (wish I had a wiring diagram!), and through some trial and guesswork I applied pos and ground to the correct pins and - as luck would have it! -the motor disengaged the diff lock and the light went out. I left it disconnected so there's no risk of it locking again, until I figure out what to do next.
Could it be the relay behind the driver kick panel? I do hear it click when I shift into low range, but not when I shift into neutral or high.
Could it be the neutral switch on the transfer case? As I mentioned I disconnected the wires and crossed the terminals on the wire to the relay (if that's where it goes?) but that didn't unlock it.
I wish I had an FSM, but does anyone have a wiring diagram and a way to identify connector pins? Or maybe someone knows what I need to replace, but I'd like to be sure before I buy parts that I may not need.
BTW, does the clicking I heard on the left front wheel verify that my birf is worn, or toast? That one leaks a fair bit of grease, but I did refill it back in the summer. How much should I be concerned?
Any advice is appreciated!