Bring a 60 Back to Life (1 Viewer)

[klinetime574]

If you rip out the Smog stuff do not damage it. People will pay you money for that. aka. Kalifornians.

You will still need to retain VCV's and also the BVSV's on the thermostat housing. Plus a few others. Look up "My Desmog Thread" and have a good read.

I would replace both master and slave clutch components. Make sure to order the right ones. They different between early and late FJ60's.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

OK. Got ahold of JimC and ordered the first round of parts. Had a spare minute last night and began pulling parts off.
I got the air rail off, and not in one piece. Most of the lines, despite being soaked in penetrating oil for a few days, twisted off at the stem of the rail. Even managed to snap an air, injector?, in half. So much for reselling the rail.
My concern is, with these rusty bits breaking off and whatnot, should I rig up a tube on a shop-vac and feed it down the ports on the head to suck up any rusty air rail debris that may have fallen down them?

 

[GasganoFJ60]

smog equipment

• GasganoFJ60
• Sep 4, 2016

The smog equipment just fell off

Look what just fell off the 60....

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Got around to pulling the carb off today. I had been reading into possible issues with the manifold and was worried that the intake would have a crack. Upon pulling it I discovered that at some point in its life it had already cracked and been repaired. Lucky me, ehh?

manifold crack repair

• GasganoFJ60
• Sep 16, 2016

manifold crack repair

On the downside I did discover that the heat shield was broken. I did not break it while removing it, I don't think. It seemed to begin to separate as I removed that back bolt holding it on. Since the manifold had already been messed with at some point in the past I assume it was broken then and just put back on as neatly as possible. Who knows.

broken heat shield

• GasganoFJ60
• Sep 16, 2016

broken heat shield

Earlier in the week I also managed to remove the seats and the nasty carpet.
I feel the carpet may have been pulled up at some point in the past as well. The driver seat bracket was missing a bolt and a plastic plug in the area of the rear floor boards was missing.
The body under the carpet is actually in a thousand times better shape than I had anticipated.
Pretty much all of the factory paint is still intact and looks brand new. Only found 2 minor rust spots; one on the passenger side rear wheel well and one by the driver side front kick panel. Both should be easy fixes.
I guess next is to pull the distributor so I can box it up with the carb and send it off to JimC

 

[CuCruiser]

It's always nice to get a good surprise when you're working on these things.

My insulator is cracked too, almost the same as yours. I just do like you say, put them back together as neatly as
possible. I noticed a new crack starting on the front this week. It is mostly plastic though, so no wonder.
I notice a lot of underhood pictures here on MUD that don't seem to have the plate. Guys must cut it back to the carb base. Probably another one of those emissions things that's nice to have, but not a necessity.

But just think how nice it'll run when you get that stuff back from Jim...

 

[GasganoFJ60]

I was surprised it was a flimsy plastic type material. I was expecting it to be a stamped piece of sheet metal.
Guess I'll see about pros and cons of its function. It gets nice and hot where I live so I'd imagine extra heat insulation may be necessary.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Got some more images, mostly of rust and battle damage to share.
Here is the interior. As i said before, a lot better condition than I was expecting. Its been shop vac'd but still needs a good simple green cleaning to eliminate the spills/rat piss that has soaked through.

This is the only real rust HOLE in the interior. Don't imagine it'll be that hard to patch.

And this is some heavily pitted surface rust, but it doesn't appear to actually breach the metal. Its at the base of the drivers kick panel. I imagine its a common place for rust from drivers bringing in moisture. Again, easy fix.

But again, everything is in tip top shape. Most of the original paint would probably show a reflection if one were to hit it with turtle wax. The discoloration around the center console location is just sticky residue from what im sure is, and hope, is just spilled sodas and rat leavings from its long term storage.

Now here is the rust carnage.
This is above the DS Rear door.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

PS Rear door. Far worse. You can stick a finger off in there and a flashlight pointed into it will show through the headliner.

And now the rain gutters...
Above PS Rear window...

Rear PS Corner

Above back gate...

 

[GasganoFJ60]

The doors and body have their spots, but not too bad by comparison. Notbad enough to snap pics of yet.
Now the battle damage....
In high school my 60 and go in a fight with a t-post fence....

Yes, thats caulk/silicone filling in the GASH. I dont think this pic does it justice.

The t-post actually ended up wedged in between the body and bumper cap. I have actual PICTURES of it somewhere. If I happen across them maybe Ill scan and post them.

Oh, and last night i dropped the fuel tank. Found a critter nest...

 

[Jentuh]

Not too bad! Rust inside is limited to the usual spots..
Only the rain-gutters might cause you some work, curious to see how the spots look once cleaned.

Keep up the good work, and get it back on the road

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have an 87 60 that has been sitting in "storage" for over 4 years. It's been off the road at least 6 years, but was driven once every few weeks/months.
Last time it ran, it was rough and running a bit warm. Had a spare fuel filter lying around and upon swapping found my fuel was an orange rusty soup. Hasn't been run since.
I plan, one day, to give it a decent resto. Need to source out good 2F mechanics near me and see about overhauling the drivetrain.
I really just want to get the ol Iron B**** running again, in the mean time. I'm tired of it just collecting dust. Can't bring myself to sell it.
What steps should I take in getting it running again?
MarvelMysterey oil down the spark plugs to lube things up?
Change oil.
Change coolant.
Rebuild carb and get rid of the smog mess?
How likely is it my fuel tank is shot? Or can I get by with flushing it and the lines?
I've read there are recalls on the fuel tanks that toyota might give me a new tank. I've had 2 dealerships run my vin, apparently my Cruiser wasn't made for the US market. Mexico? Why wouldn't the recalls be on "foreign" market cruisers?

A lot of questions I know.

Thank yall for the input.

My local Toyota can never find my vin either. Last night I spotted on another thread comments to check recalls. I googled it, found the page, typed in my vin and bam, it came up! On the general toyota page I get one for seat belts but for the US one it revealed the gas tank but seems as if that one was already done. Maybe you've tried it already but I'll bet it comes it like mine does.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ii appreciate yalls input.
Has anyone got experience with Por15 tank repair? They seem simple enough from what I've read.

Is there a company that makes a shackle reversal kit for 60s?
Who makes the best spring kit to get just enough lift to clear 33s. Still wanna keep a good ride for DD but be able to handle weight of racks and bumpers.

I'll just add that I picked up a used tank back with my first 60 from cruiserparts in NH for somewhere around $300 in 2010. I'm fairly sure I remember it being sprayed and sealed. I had a backwoods mechanic put it in for me... It worked tho I do think there were other problems with the tank and its system that I never sought to figure out.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

A few years ago I ended up having Beno run my VIN and it turned out my tank had been done in 94. So much for scoring a free tank. But what i drained out oft he tank didn't look too terrible. I haven't pulled the sending unit and peered into the tank yet.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

I pulled the sending unit/level off of the fuel tank today. Sad sights indeed...

The rust inside is very, very fine. Even large chunks seem to turn to powder with a light touch. But there appears to be no tank breaches. Still a very solid shell.
I'm going to look more into those tank restoration/resealing kits from Por-15 and alike.
Has anyone had any luck, or failures, with said products?
I'm going to try the chain method HemiAlex recommended to see how clean i can get it. I'm also thinking about pouring a gallon or so of diesel into the tank for the sloshing to see if it'll help get some of the crud off.
Id really like to just get the long range fuel tank but $1200-$1500 is just way to steep for a fuel tank, IMO.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

So I got a lead on lead on an aftermarket fuel tank for a 60. These were the pics I was sent. Does anybody have any insight as to who made this tank, and more importantly, will it be a direct fit for an 87 FJ60?

 

[Willard]

Wile that thing looks HUGE. Judging from the LRA on the side I would bet it is from Long Range Automotive in AU.
Long Range Automotive - LRA - Long Range Fuel Tanks

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Wile that thing looks HUGE. Judging from the LRA on the side I would bet it is from Long Range Automotive in AU.
Long Range Automotive - LRA - Long Range Fuel Tanks

Yeah. I found their site and emailed them the pics for clarification. They say it is not for a60 series, but rather a 55 series.

 

[cruisedeisel]

Wow!!!! How many gallons? I guess the spare tire doesn't fit there any more eh?

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Wow!!!! How many gallons? I guess the spare tire doesn't fit there any more eh?

It's about 38-40 gallons.
And yes, the spare tire and mount would have to be relocated.

 

[GasganoFJ60]

Lets knock the dust off of this...
...again...

I did not think it had been 3 years since I messed with the 60 but here we are.
I have not messed with it in that time necessarily but I do have some project savings built up and feel I can start buying parts to put towards the end result.

I feel the itch to pull the trigger on the the H55 5spd. Its been one of the dreams for years to convert and the prices have only crept up higher and higher in that time. Might as well get it now.
Does CCOT have the best overall deal as far as 5spds go?
SOR seems to be a close second.
And being that mine is an 87 I DO NOT need the adapter kit with the longer bolts, correct?
My t-case should bolt up to the 5spd no problem, ehh?

While the case is off, might as well rebuild. Any suggestions on what to do with it while its open? Lower LOW gears?