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Best oil for 92 FJ80

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by RandyS, Aug 4, 2003.

  1. RandyS

    RandyS

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    :)Can you guys tell me the best oil to run in my 92 LC in western washington state, it has 89,000 originol miles.
    I would like to run something that will make lifters alittle quiter after having them adjusted twice.
    Thanks
     
  2. cary

    cary

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    Mobil 1 0w-40, Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40, Redline 10w-30, Redline 5w-40,Kendall Synthetic 5w-40, Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (only if it says "Made in Germany" on the back with a red label), Mix of 5 quarts Mobil 1 5w-30 and 3 quarts 15w-50. Change every 5000-7500 miles depending on your driving conditions.

    If you want to run mineral, check out either Chevron HD 10w-40 or Penzoil 10w-40 (Penzoil used to be crap but has dramatically improved in the past 3 years).

    Cary

    Bet you weren't expecting that long of an answer!!! :D
     
  3. Jonathan_Ferguson

    Jonathan_Ferguson ★ is in the wrong locale SILVER Star

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    Caltex Havoline Delo 400 is supposed to be very good. I think it's called Chevron in Up Over. :D
     
  4. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr SILVER Star

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    Wow, 89K on a 92! Nice! Not even broken in yet...

    I've been using Valvoline 10-30 in mine, 181,000 miles and no problems.

    -H-
     
  5. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Cary's new name is TEX. He know more about oil than anyone in Texas.
    See I was nice, I didn't make the OTHER lube comment :D holmes
    kurt
     
  6. cary

    cary

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    [quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=4116;start=0#msg30480 date=1060106634]
    Cary's new name is TEX. He know more about oil than anyone in Texas.
    See I was nice, I didn't make the OTHER lube comment :D holmes
    kurt
    [/quote]

    I was thinking "lubeman" but I figured people might take it wrong! :D

    What did the cholo say when the house fell on him? :-[

    Get off me holmes :-*

    Cary

    Who spent way to much time in east LA when growing up.
     
  7. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Lubeman works, but Jiffylube is better :D We'll call you JL for short
    kurt
     
  8. DRTDuck

    DRTDuck

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    As many of us know there are several posts here (and SOR) about what is the best oil.

    I don't recall anyone ever mentioning Castrol porducts. I have always been under the impression this was one of the better oils out there. Am I wrong?

    I have been running the mineral variety, Catrol 5w-30, Toyota filter, change evey 3k.
     
  9. cary

    cary

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    [quote author=DRTDUCK link=board=2;threadid=4116;start=0#msg30608 date=1060154104]
    As many of us know there are several posts here (and SOR) about what is the best oil.

    I don't recall anyone ever mentioning Castrol porducts. I have always been under the impression this was one of the better oils out there. Am I wrong?

    I have been running the mineral variety, Catrol 5w-30, Toyota filter, change evey 3k.
    [/quote]

    Castrol Mineral oil is fine. If you want to change every 3000 miles there is no reason to stop using it. Castrol Syntec (except for the German 0w-30) is a group III+ synthetic and not of the same caliper as Mobil's Group IV, Amsoils Group IV, and Redlines Group V stocks. I suggest synthetic every 5000-7500 miles, by the time you pay for the extra filter and time of changing mineral every 3,000, synthetic is break even proposition.

    Cary
     
  10. WolfpackTLC

    WolfpackTLC

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    Castrol non-synthetic is an excellent oil, but I don't recommend it for any import engines. Our research w/ racing shows that the base stock of the Castrol doesn't respond well to the oil wipers in our race engines, or the oil pickup in many offroad motors. This seems to be an import only phenomenon, as I know many 5.0 guys that LOVE Castrol. I'll agree about the Syntec,but I wouldn't but Amsoil in the same catagory as Mobil 1, and I wouldn't put Redline on that high of a pedastal. Mobil has some REALLY good synthetic, but I'm still not a proponet of the extended oil changes, even though I know that the synthetic have signinficantly better wear properties. I still think 6 quarts of oil and a filter are cheaper than a new motor. I've got a 1996 3.4 liter motor in my 4Runner that was broken in on mineral Mobil 1, then switched to Mobil Syn after break in, nothing but that since. That motor just passed the compression test 1 whopping point from factory. That's w/ over 170k on the clock. That folks, is essentially a new motor. How's that for durability?

    That also said, I've seen various issues where higher mileage motors did NOT respond well to synthetic, due to sealing issues where the smaller molecules of the synthetic seeped past the older seals. Just some food for thought.
     
  11. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    Randy,
    Welcome and as you can tell we are a bunch of opinionated asses around here. I will withhold my two cents as I have nothing new to say, but I will ask where in western washington are you and how in the name of god did you find a 92 with 89k, mine is up to 171k and fast approaching 172. I put about 100 to 150 miles on teh days that I work (insurance estimator) driving all over whatcom skagit and island counties in Wa.
    well enough of that drop me a private line if you are in any of the aforementioned areas and perhaps we coudl go wheelin soon.
    Dave