A friend gave me a beat up Warn M12000 for free. It was on a very heavy home-built receiver mount that weighed about as much as the winch itself. First thing I did was separate the winch from the mount and this is what I have:
Beat-Up Warn M12000 Restore Thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Bob95065
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- #2
I put power to the winch and got a spark but no movement. I decided to take the motor apart to see what was wrong. Looks like a solid chunk of rust inside. Probably not economically feasible to repair this motor:
I pulled the gearbox apart and besides the old grease it looks good. Can use a good cleaning and restoration. Looks like a good winter project.
Questions:
What is a good replacement motor for this winch? I would like to keep cost down if possible.
It came to me with no solenoid pack or controller. I am aware of contactors and will probably go with an Albright. What controller do you suggest? I am leaning toward wired because they should be more reliable. Are there any aftermarket controllers that use the Warn connector? I am asking because I go offroad with a friend that has a M12000 he bought new in 1996. It would be nice to have the same controller connector in case there was a failure.
Thanks,
Bob
I pulled the gearbox apart and besides the old grease it looks good. Can use a good cleaning and restoration. Looks like a good winter project.
Questions:
What is a good replacement motor for this winch? I would like to keep cost down if possible.
It came to me with no solenoid pack or controller. I am aware of contactors and will probably go with an Albright. What controller do you suggest? I am leaning toward wired because they should be more reliable. Are there any aftermarket controllers that use the Warn connector? I am asking because I go offroad with a friend that has a M12000 he bought new in 1996. It would be nice to have the same controller connector in case there was a failure.
Thanks,
Bob
I believe the m12 has a splined input? A 6hp warn motor would be a good upgrade. Or gigglepin has motors. Not sure I'd try a dB electrical one, I'm a little gun shy with cheap vs good. Lots of rebuild threads here on m12 and other winches. Great projects to get you going again cause they have instant gratification because they are small and work again.
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- #5
I brought the gear train to an automotive machine shop that has done work for me when I rebuilt engines in the past. They put the gear train in the hot tank this week and will clean the aluminum parts in the high pressure parts washer. I’ll post photos when I get the parts this Friday morning.
I am ordering parts for the winch. In looking at the IPL I think I should order the following gaskets and seals:
14964 2 gaskets
16336 2 bushings
13826 2 washers
13848 1 gasket
Are there any other wear items I should replace while it is apart? What is the best grease to use when I put it back together?
I am ordering parts for the winch. In looking at the IPL I think I should order the following gaskets and seals:
14964 2 gaskets
16336 2 bushings
13826 2 washers
13848 1 gasket
Are there any other wear items I should replace while it is apart? What is the best grease to use when I put it back together?
- Thread starter
- #6
I took the gear train to Morenos in Watsonville. I've taken heads there for valve jobs and was very pleased. This machine shop started in the early 60s and is now run by Paul Moreno who's father was the original owner.
Paul put the steel parts on the hot tank for a week and ran the aluminum parts through the parts washer. He got that solidified, caked on grease off. I was very pleased.
All cleaned up
Paul with the parts.
I have gaskets on the way. Looking forward to paint and assembly.
Paul put the steel parts on the hot tank for a week and ran the aluminum parts through the parts washer. He got that solidified, caked on grease off. I was very pleased.
All cleaned up
Paul with the parts.
I have gaskets on the way. Looking forward to paint and assembly.
- Thread starter
- #7
Its been a long time posting. I thought I should put up an update.
I got the case parts painted. I'll post pictures tomorrow.
Today I madevthevtie bars on a friend's lathe. Made paer dimensions of the original parts.
Next weekend is assembly. I need to buy greae. I see different Aeroshell greases used on this board. Is it necassary? Whay do you suggest? Warn said any moly grease would work. Is there a compelling resson to use something orhervthan a moly grease I can pick up at the auto parts store?
I got the case parts painted. I'll post pictures tomorrow.
Today I madevthevtie bars on a friend's lathe. Made paer dimensions of the original parts.
Next weekend is assembly. I need to buy greae. I see different Aeroshell greases used on this board. Is it necassary? Whay do you suggest? Warn said any moly grease would work. Is there a compelling resson to use something orhervthan a moly grease I can pick up at the auto parts store?
- Thread starter
- #8
Ok, I got some time to take pictures this is what I have:
Parts were sanded, primed and painted. I could have done a better job but really this winch will eventually live in a bumper and the paint will serve as corrosion resistance.
My brake assembly is pretty rusty on the ends. If I sandblasted and painted the ends would that cause any negative effects? How about sandblasting the entire shaft?
The cones had corrosion so I cleaned them up with Scotchbrite. The metal is stained but not pitted.
Finally, a question: What is the proper way to tension the brake before installing the shoes? I don't remember the outside cone rotating but it must have because there is no tension in the spring.
Thanks for following and thanks for the help. I appreciate this board.
Bob
Parts were sanded, primed and painted. I could have done a better job but really this winch will eventually live in a bumper and the paint will serve as corrosion resistance.
My brake assembly is pretty rusty on the ends. If I sandblasted and painted the ends would that cause any negative effects? How about sandblasting the entire shaft?
The cones had corrosion so I cleaned them up with Scotchbrite. The metal is stained but not pitted.
Finally, a question: What is the proper way to tension the brake before installing the shoes? I don't remember the outside cone rotating but it must have because there is no tension in the spring.
Thanks for following and thanks for the help. I appreciate this board.
Bob
- Thread starter
- #10
Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #11
Another question: the nylon thrust washers (P/N 13826) have a step on one side. Do the sides with the steps face the drum or the drum supports?
- Thread starter
- #12
Thrust washers are part 12 in the diagram below
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks, very helpful
