Anyone used dum dum tape on third brake light? (1 Viewer)

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Hey Everyone,
I've looked at a bunch of the normal threads, and thought I had my issue wrapped up by using closed cell foam tape, but still got some small drips. I picked my 100 up from the shop yesterday, I had some rear hatch work done and while they were at it, since the hatch was fully disassembled for paint, they used dum dum tape to seal up the third brake light when re-installing it. Supposedly the stuff is great but I tested it today and it's worse than the closed cell foam. The guy told me to swing by tomorrow and they'd take it apart and see what's up and what we can do, maybe one of his guys didn't lat it in right etc. Just wondering if I should bag it and use my tube of Toyota FIPG on it.
Thought I'd check in, (short notice) and see if anyone has had success with that tape. I think it's just butyl tape? It's brand new paint at the moment so I'd hate to go straight to the sealant but I don't want any h20 issues, I have to continue working on this thing.
Thanks!
Bryan
 
If it's just butyl tape/rope that is thick enough and installed with no gaps it should seal very well. Butyl is frequently used for sealing small roof leaks in homes with great success.

I just pulled my light today and put some standard permatex black RTV on it. After reinstalling I question if I put a thick enough bead on it.
 
With the shape of the mating surfaces they need an even thickness all the way around. The joint should be on the bottom side and if possible lay each end side by side, staggered or whatever it's called, for an inch or so instead of a clean joint.
 
For those of you that used RTV, how hard is it to remove the brake light to replace a broken bulb?
 
For those of you that used RTV, how hard is it to remove the brake light to replace a broken bulb?

It looked to me like a sealed LED unit that I removed from my 2000 LX. I saw no place to replace any bulbs if it is an incandescent bulb.
 
With the shape of the mating surfaces they need an even thickness all the way around. The joint should be on the bottom side and if possible lay each end side by side, staggered or whatever it's called, for an inch or so instead of a clean joint.
You mean coiled around the opening like a snake? I'm trying to picture what you meant by joint, just where the ends of the tape meet? I haven't worked with the stuff, I just thought as long as I make sure there's an even amount around the entire opening it should work, like the closed cell tape I tried. Maybe layer the butyl on top of itself to have a double stack...
 
Yes coiled like a snake. Layering it should not be necessary as long as it's around 1/4" thick. So instead of the ends meeting like this "--" and forming a joint they would pass each other creating a small section that looks like this "-=-" sorry if that's still confusing it's the best visual I can give on my phone.
 
Yes coiled like a snake. Layering it should not be necessary as long as it's around 1/4" thick. So instead of the ends meeting like this "--" and forming a joint they would pass each other creating a small section that looks like this "-=-" sorry if that's still confusing it's the best visual I can give on my phone.
No that's perfect, thanks. I figured the snake reference was the best way I could ask, I think that should work. If not I'll go to the ol' rev or poly etc. Thanks again for the tips.
 
I just used a s*** load of RTV after I spent 2 hours cleaning it all off and then even ran a bead around the outer edge and wiped in clean with finger like caulking in your house.

No leaks.
 
I just used a s*** load of RTV after I spent 2 hours cleaning it all off and then even ran a bead around the outer edge and wiped in clean with finger like caulking in your house.

No leaks.
Yep, if this stuff doesn't work I'll probably just go straight to RTV. I have some poly here as well for a snorkel install so that's an option. Just figured I'd try the tape since it's a brand new paint job on the hatch, figured I give it the benefit of the doubt, see what happens.
 
FWIW I went over to the shop today and after pulling the light and laying one strip with no gaps around the light piece then pushing that on, we tested it again and no water. I had them snug the bolts instead of cranking tight and I think it prevented the light from bowing out, so hopefully it's a fix otherwise I'll just clean and use sealant.
 
Quick update for anyone interested, the butyl tape is, fingers crossed, working great so far. We had some intense weather before and after TS Colin, and it got dumped on heavily without any leakage. Gets my vote for now as far as something that's usable without going full on with RTV etc. So give it a go if you're inclined.
 
Glad to hear it's working for you.
The guy at the shop got a little overzealous with tightening the first time, I told him not to go crazy on it after the reapplication and it worked out after that. Too much tightening seems to make the assembly bow out more in the middle.
 

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