alternator upgrade please help

[RAYJON]

look around, I get them from the local Napa brand new Delco for quite a bit less than 180$

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-335-1049-Professional-Alternator/dp/B007QBQJUQ

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1025334,parttype,2412

 

[Cruzerman]

I'm not sure that's entirely true. For example, Priority Wire says "Welding Cable has a thermoplastic elastomer TPE insulation, which is highly resistant to flame, oil, grease, solvents, ozone and abrasion".

http://www.prioritywire.com/specs/Welding Cable.pdf

I'm not sure about the insulation, but the wire itself is an issue. I've used it before. It wicks water inside and after a period of time starts to corrode the copper. I've cut into welding wire that was used under the hood and the cooper was not bright and shiny like when it was installed, but instead all tarnished. In marine cables, the copper wire is tinned, which protects it from doing this.

 

[FJ60Seth]

I'm not sure about the insulation, but the wire itself is an issue. I've used it before. It wicks water inside and after a period of time starts to corrode the copper. I've cut into welding wire that was used under the hood and the cooper was not bright and shiny like when it was installed, but instead all tarnished. In marine cables, the copper wire is tinned, which protects it from doing this.

Thanks, good to know.

 

[cyberfalco]

http://www.alternatorparts.com/CS-144_Special_offer.htm
bracket A285 39.95
cs144 199.99

How did your install go? I am curious. Thanks.

 

[SmartyPants]

Your vehicle wiring was designed for your stock alternator. It is extremely advisable to upgrade the current carrying capability of your wiring if you increase the maximum current output of your alternator. My 2 cents

I'm not trying to be a jerk here or anything, but if his electrical devices pulled 20 amps with stock alternator (as an example) they will still only pull 20 amps with a bigger alternator. No need to upgrade the wiring in the whole vehicle since nothing will change for them. You could run a 1000 amp alternator and it would be perfectly fine. Think of amperage as a pool of energy, the higher the amperage, the bigger the available pool. Think of the wires as a pipe coming from the pool. If the pool gets bigger more water doesn't flow out of the pipe than before, but instead will flow for a lot longer.

The biggest reason for a bigger alternator is so you can run a lot of electrical things, yet still charge the batteries efficiently. Using the 20 amp load example from before, would mean that 35 amps would be available to charge the batteries on a stock 55 amp alternator vs having 85 amps to charge batteries with a 105 amp alternator. OHM's law. I would suggest upgrading the battery wiring and wiring to alternator though since they will see more amperage/power.

Anyway, hope that helps avoid any confusion.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

A counterpoint to this thread:

Unless you run a ton of lights, night racing style, why do you need more power out of your alternator? I get more is better, but in this case less is more.

What most off-roaders need is more electrical STORAGE, because the stock 60 amps is plenty to run your systems and charge your batteries. If all your potential normal loads don't equal the alternator output, you're already good. You don't need to fab new mounts, find obscure pulleys, or change your wiring.

No alternator that would fit is going to run a winch. Not even close. Your winch is going to be run by your batteries and the power that is already stored. And be realistic there-how often do you even use your winch? For most it's a few minutes, here and there but actual use is rare and infrequent.

And that's not to mention how many amps your battery can even absorb. Trust me, it isn't 200.

The smart $$ increases your electrical storage with a second battery. This gives you more energy to winch, and more to run accessories like a fridge or radios when the motor is off. Or self jump, or have 2 batteries for welding etc.

As for wiring-the marine stuff is the macdaddy of wire. Well worth a bit extra upfront cost.

 

[87CRUSR]

MmMmm....what Cruiserdrew said.....2 batteries

 

[RAYJON]

Just one more thing to add, i agree with the logic above, that said, the newer alternators are more efficient and put out alot more at idle. the gm cs130 and cs144 are really good alternators. the older si12 and toyota alterators only put out rated amperage at higher rpm. Now I am not saying run a motorola like on the cummins in my truck, (I have alot of crap running off it.. inverter etc) but run a more modern alternator that can recover from your winching with the same 60 amps just at idle...

and upgrading 40 year old wiring is a must.. the lead going away from the alternator is #1 at least a #8 wire that is newer...

 

[cyberfalco]

There are lots of retailers for marine grade wire. Have any of you worked with one in particular that has good prices and a good reputation? I have a task on my list to make new battery and alternator cables for my 60.

 

[tclark]

I'm not trying to be a jerk here or anything, but if his electrical devices pulled 20 amps with stock alternator (as an example) they will still only pull 20 amps with a bigger alternator. No need to upgrade the wiring in the whole vehicle since nothing will change for them. You could run a 1000 amp alternator and it would be perfectly fine. Think of amperage as a pool of energy, the higher the amperage, the bigger the available pool. Think of the wires as a pipe coming from the pool. If the pool gets bigger more water doesn't flow out of the pipe than before, but instead will flow for a lot longer.

The biggest reason for a bigger alternator is so you can run a lot of electrical things, yet still charge the batteries efficiently. Using the 20 amp load example from before, would mean that 35 amps would be available to charge the batteries on a stock 55 amp alternator vs having 85 amps to charge batteries with a 105 amp alternator. OHM's law. I would suggest upgrading the battery wiring and wiring to alternator though since they will see more amperage/power.

Anyway, hope that helps avoid any confusion.

Agreed; the load on the wiring harness shouldn't change at all unless you add something to increase it. The alternator only provides you with more to pull from. The only wiring you should need to upgrade is the big 3(although that may be what people are referring to anyway).

 

[Mijfwb23]

new 200 amp/ 140 amp at idle alt

• Mijfwb23
• Mar 6, 2015

I'm running a 200 amp/140 amp at idle alt based on the cs130 one wire housing in mine. it was pricey but I never worry about not having enough alt. I upgraded my main wire from alt to battery to 2 gauge and have a blue sea single 200 amp fuse block for it.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

There are lots of retailers for marine grade wire. Have any of you worked with one in particular that has good prices and a good reputation? I have a task on my list to make new battery and alternator cables for my 60.

I order from Greg's Marine Wire. Good prices, good shipping etc. Get more lugs than you think you need as you'll mess a few up. Also, they have the Marine adhesive lined heat shrink by the foot for the lowest price I have seen.

 

[lovetoski]

I think there's a good argument for a higher amp alternator - and for dual batteries (more storage). In the PNW, we have a lot of cold/wet/dark days (not this winter, but usually). This means you're running lights, fan, wipers, rear defrost, and the radio. Put three or four wet people into the truck at the end of a day playing in the mountains, and you'll have the heater fan on high for quite awhile to keep the windshield clear. The stock alt does not put out enough amps to run all of this at idle...so if you are in the city, wipers will run slowly, lights will be dim, etc. A good battery can easily power all of this, but it puts out 12.5 volts, where an alternator (at speed) puts out 14 +/-. Bigger battery cables help, improving ground helps, but not enough in my experience. The 62's I've driven don't have this problem (they have an 80 amp alternator). None of the above includes extra's like higher wattage bulbs, additional lights, an amp, CB, etc...all of which just compound the problem at idle. If you are not at idle much, or don't need to run too many electrical loads when you are at idle, then the stock alt is fine.

There's a thread on here about using a 62 alternator on a 60. You need a longer bracket and to modify the plug (62's use a three wire plug). Coleman has the modified plug. Any welding shop can lengthen the 60 bracket so it'll fit the 62 alt. The stock belt will work. Not saying the GM alts are bad, but the 62 alt is a nice option for if you want to stay mr T.

 

[tag3]

Well golly gee willickers, if I did not need the smog pump to pass CA smog. I would replace it with an alternator that could power a small city. Of course I would have a 2nd. or 3rd. battery to go with it, aux. fuse block and power all acc. off of it. And sell power back to the utilities to boot.

 

[Elbert]

a good higher amp alternator is a good thing...even if you were to go crazy and use a GM one..like a CS144 or CS130

 

[87CRUSR]

I've been running a mean green for years with no noticeable issues to date.

 

[augirthedude]

I'm not trying to be a jerk here or anything, but if his electrical devices pulled 20 amps with stock alternator (as an example) they will still only pull 20 amps with a bigger alternator. No need to upgrade the wiring in the whole vehicle since nothing will change for them. You could run a 1000 amp alternator and it would be perfectly fine. Think of amperage as a pool of energy, the higher the amperage, the bigger the available pool. Think of the wires as a pipe coming from the pool. If the pool gets bigger more water doesn't flow out of the pipe than before, but instead will flow for a lot longer.

The biggest reason for a bigger alternator is so you can run a lot of electrical things, yet still charge the batteries efficiently. Using the 20 amp load example from before, would mean that 35 amps would be available to charge the batteries on a stock 55 amp alternator vs having 85 amps to charge batteries with a 105 amp alternator. OHM's law. I would suggest upgrading the battery wiring and wiring to alternator though since they will see more amperage/power.

Anyway, hope that helps avoid any confusion.

The wiring to the alt. and battery is what I was referring to. I was trying to warn those who just thought it was a plug and play procedure to think about what they were trying to accomplish . If adding accessories you will need a larger current carrying capacity for the main feed and potentially a second load center (Fuse block or in line fuses) to distribute the load.

 

[Pinittowinit]

1995 cadillac fleetwood . I'll post up pics as I just installed it yesterday. Awesome fit

 

[Pinittowinit]

I know this is beat to death but I need some help understanding how the charge light works. Mine isn't and Its driving me crazy. White and yellow from alt are wired correctly. White is power to the fuse box correct? When you turn the key on the charge light should come on correct? I'm trouble shooting but hard when I don't have a full grasp on how it works. I did check the relay and it's working properly.