Adjusting Steering? Help? (1 Viewer)

[Nonoriginal]

I'm all set for a weekend of work.

I have 3 Gallons of SAE 80-90W gear oil. Valvoline Moly-blend grease for the Birfs. A new OEM Brake Master cylinder, and excellent write-up for install. Radiator Flush kit...However...

I don't have a 1965 FJ40 manual, and I need to adjust my steering. My rig tracks real nice on the road, but there is a lot of "play" in the steering wheel itself. I have searched and searched this site, but I haven't found any pic's or "how to's".

I need to know what to tighten.

 

[DocB]

Look into a new "rag joint" or steering coupler that goes at the joint on the shaft before it reaches the steering box. Also, look into new tie rod ends, and a new or (or rebuild kit for your) center arm. Look in the Specter catalog for parts and suggestions.

 

[mallred]

I would get a Haynes or TLC manual, They will tell how to adjust the steering box, ect.

My tlc rapair manual says: Loosen the lock nut on the side of the steering box and tighten adjustment screw until steering feels heavy then loosen screw 1/4 to 1/2 turns and then tighten the lock nut, this is found on the manifold side of the steering box. first you check to make sure there is gear oil in the box and that all tie rod ends and linkage is tight and have no play.

My last steering wheel slop was caused by the pitman arm linkage and all I had to do was take out the cotter key and tighten it.

 

[Ian Rogers]

Look into a new "rag joint" or steering coupler that goes at the joint on the shaft before it reaches the steering box. Also, look into new tie rod ends, and a new or (or rebuild kit for your) center arm. Look in the Specter catalog for parts and suggestions.

he said it's a 65' there is no 'rag joint' untill i think 72'. i found all of the play to be in my center arm, i just re-built it and good as new.

 

[hammerhead]

...and don't for get to check the center arm or bellcrank...

 

[82-SOA-60]

My tlc rapair manual says: Loosen the lock nut on the side of the steering box and tighten adjustment screw until steering feels heavy then loosen screw 1/4 to 1/2 turns and then tighten the lock nut, this is found on the manifold side of the steering box. first you check to make sure there is gear oil in the box and that all tie rod ends and linkage is tight and have no play.

We did this on a my bros rig and it took all of the slop out of the steering. Easy fix if that is the problem. Go with the simple stuff first.

 

[Pin_Head]

The problem with adjusting the side screw on the box is that it doesn't really compensate for worn out bushings, which is the major source of slop in the box. This can lead to cracking the box casting when you hit a bump (usually the side cap).

Replace the worn out bushings first and then adjust it.

 

[BigR]

I have worn out bushings as Pin_Head refers to. There is no quick fix. I had to have a machine shop replace them...

 

[Nonoriginal]

Thanks for the help guys.

I didn't get to everything today. Flushing my Radiator took 4 hours. What a tidious job...Back Flush, heat, Flush, repeat x4. The oil change got a little sporty when the dip stick broke...uggg! Simple things that took way too long. Anyway, Attacking the Brakes tomorrow.

What bushings are you guys talking about? Could someone give me the dimensions or a place to find the dimensions, because if mine are worn I wouldn't be able to measure them. I'll turn a new set at work, when I get the dimensions.

 

[65swb45]

Thanks for the help guys.

I didn't get to everything today. Flushing my Radiator took 4 hours. What a tidious job...Back Flush, heat, Flush, repeat x4. The oil change got a little sporty when the dip stick broke...uggg! Simple things that took way too long. Anyway, Attacking the Brakes tomorrow.

What bushings are you guys talking about? Could someone give me the dimensions or a place to find the dimensions, because if mine are worn I wouldn't be able to measure them. I'll turn a new set at work, when I get the dimensions.

Fluted bronze bushing, still available at a reasonable price from the dealer. No need to reinvent the wheel.

 

[offcamber40]

My steering had all sorts of play in it when I started trying to work through it.. I started with the steering box adjustement and tie-rod ends, then the center arm rebuild, then the pitman arm adjustents, then I had to replace the steering box completely because the seals had blown and all the busihing were wasted.. Turns out in the end, the worst of the play came from that toasted rubber piece that atteaches the steering shaft to the box.. that coupled with the fact that one tie rod was bent and kept flexing.. both were problems caused by trying to muscle big tires w/ no PS! Good luck! When you get it right, its a beautiful thing!

Mike

Mike

 

[Pin_Head]

What bushings are you guys talking about? Could someone give me the dimensions or a place to find the dimensions, because if mine are worn I wouldn't be able to measure them. .

The Pitman shaft or output shaft of the steering box has 3 bronze bushings. They are pretty cheap, but they come oversize so you can ream them at work.

Have someone rock the wheel back and forth, while you watch the end of the shaft (with the big nut on it) If it wobbles back and forth instead of just rotating, the bushings are gone. This is a reason why the seal may leak too.