Toyota Brakes still rolling while brakes applied at stop light

[96bruzer]

Hello Everyone,

Did some research but did not find any answer.

I currently have a 2008 Land Cruiser. While waiting at a stop light and brakes applied, vehicle starts to roll / move a little bit even with the air conditioner off. I would just be waiting not doing anything else like messing with radio or phone, full concentration on driving vehicle. I apply just a bit more pressure and vehicle stops.

Also, I currently have two 2004 4runner, one for each daughter and one of them would also do the same exact thing.

Also previously had two 100 series land cruiser and again one of them would do the same thing.

I was wondering what this could be and was thinking maybe the brake modulator needs adjustment? Is there anything else that can be adjusted?

Hope somebody chimes in that knows or have an idea where to start as it is becoming annoying. Thanks!

 

[mark71]

Are you losing sensation in your feet?

 

[96bruzer]

Are you losing sensation in your feet?

mark71, on my research, there are other toyota owners who have experienced this and also there are a total of five drivers in the family and we all experience the same symptoms on exactly the same vehicles. I have always gotten very positive comments and help on this forum except for two and yours is one of them so lets please reserve snide comments for elsewhere. I need helpful information.

 

[Desert Nomad]

This usually only happens when the ac is on as the rpm keeps rising and falling on idle,

even with the air conditioner off.

Since you said even with the ac off does the rpm remain static when idling at the stop light? I'll see how mine re-acts as it does the sane with the ac on but I've never tried with the ac off.

I don't think mark71 meant anything by that, we're usually a bunch of dimwitted cheeky monkeys in the 200 section who promote changing halogen fluid often

 

[96bruzer]

This usually only happens when the ac is on as the rpm keeps rising and falling on idle,

Since you said even with the ac off does the rpm remain static when idling at the stop light? I'll see how mine re-acts as it does the sane with the ac on but I've never tried with the ac off.

I don't think mark71 meant anything by that, we're usually a bunch of dimwitted cheeky monkeys in the 200 section who promote changing halogen fluid often

Idle is very nice and steady. Also please take note that I have two of the same exact 4runner year 04, mileage 140k plus and both v6 auto and previously 100 series. One of each was doing it. Also found a post from another forum that has the same issues.

Desert Nomad if mark71 did not mean anything then I apologize mark71.

Thank you Desert Nomad and please see how your vehicle behaves.

 

[96bruzer]

Rolling while brakes applied - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

 

[bjowett]

Yes, I have experienced this, my wife has not. All these vehicles have a hydraulic booster with what Toyota calls a double link brake pedal. The double link requires MORE pedal/foot travel in the early to mid stroke range, and then ramps up/increases master cylinder travel but decreases foot travel for large inputs. The brake fluid reservoir feeds brake fluid to the four outlet ports (each of which feeds a caliper) through two internal pathways. One is the traditional into the master cylinder then out to the calipers. The other is through the hydraulic booster and accumulator and then out to the calipers through the same ports. My hypothesis is that between the hydraulic boost and double link, we don't notice a reduction of foot pedal pressure, which is weird as I am usually far more sensitive to what the vehicle is doing.... or possibly it has been borderline on being able to hold the vehicle to begin with. Short answer, since it does not happen to other people, it is likely certain drivers.

 

[bigbassinbob]

My wife used to have a 2004 4Runner and I have a 2016 land cruiser. I have noticed this exact same thing. The vehicle will occasionally start moving forward slowly without me noticing if I haven't pressed down hard enough on the brakes. I think it's the way Toyota makes them but I don't like it. I'm not sure if there's anything that can be done about it.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

I have noticed this on my LX, but not on my 100 series. The brake feel between the two is VERY different, with the LX having more of "squishy" feel, which makes me think that maybe I am not applying enough pressure, so it rolls, but it definitely seems like I am at the time. Like the OP, I was sitting in traffic at a light, when I noticed the truck starts rolling forward. It has happened to me a few times. I watch for it now...

 

[chilibit]

My 200 likes to creep. I have always assumed that it was the result of the way the transmission was 'tuned.' If you switch to neutral then the tendency disappears (assuming no grade). I have even switched to left foot braking (a long term habit from certain track cars) and I find that improves things for me. I think the pedal alignment and seat alignment is less than ideal. I know, you are expected to 'drive around' these issues but it is annoying in a DD. Swapping to brake pads that bite early/cold might help.

 

[T4Runner]

I noticed this on a couple surprising occasions when I first got it. I just retrained my foot to rest harder on the brake pedal when at a light. Never noticed this on my 4Runner though.

 

[arich]

I just drove my uncles 05 4Runner for a week while in Florida. I noticed this too. I thought the lurching at the light may have something to do with dry driveshafts. The car sits for long periods and hardly gets driven. I know he's not maintaining like I would.
If the driveshafts were dry when you approached a light the rear would raise and the front would dive. The rear shaft would expand. If it were not lubed properly it might actually keep the rear in an unloaded state. The moment the shaft can return to neutral you get a lurch.
Based on Brian's comment it might not be that "simple."
Do you maintain your driveshafts??

 

[chilibit]

Reacting to arich's comment I think the 'lurch' on take off has more to do with the gear ratio selected by Toyota in the transmission. In town it is too low. Towing a heavy trailer it is pretty good. Off road it is pretty good. A compromise reflecting the nature of the truck. Tip in, more of a carburetor term, is pretty fast and that exacerbates the condition. If these comments don't match up then I have not experienced what you are describing arich.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

From my experience, it is not a lurching. It is a creeping, with your brake applied, so you have not started accelerating yet.

 

[T4Runner]

My experience was more so creep, not so lurch...

 

[arich]

Creep is exactly what it did and I too found it unnerving. Not knowing the other info I told my uncle to get his driveshafts greased. The old 100 did something like this and I remember it being driveshaft related. Might be two completely different things. Ant

 

[n55luvr]

I have a 100 (but check out 200 forum often as I'd like one of those in the garage as well) and our 100 definitely creeps but I have only noticed it when the a/c cycles on or off which drives RPMs up a tiny bit. I will say it can be startling. On a couple occasions I have not noticed the slow roll forward and have come close to tapping the car in front of me.

With that being said, I am confident there is nothing abnormal about our 100 brakes. They are super smooth, stop great and the pedal is easy to modulate. Seems to just be a byproduct of the booster design.

 

[i4c4lo]

I have a 2013 LX570 and 2005 Tacoma, both rigs does what the OP is talking about. the Tacoma is much more aggressive with the creeping though.

 

[Desert Nomad]

Tried it out in my cruiser today and nothing, with the ac on it will do the creep when the rpms kick up and very light brake applied. With the ac off it wouldn't creep and the rpm was very steady, i cycled through the scan-gauge to give off rpm readings and it sat around 540 and would modulate by a max of 10 rpm vs the kick up of 100+ rpm when the ac switches on.


For infos sake my cruiser is a '13 with the 4.6 v8 and auto (GCC spec), I need to find the build specs as I clearly remember the 14 models had "brake assist" in the build sheet whereas mine didn't

 

[96bruzer]

I actually even thought the spring that pulls back the pedal being maybe a little too strong when new but now with 160k miles, might not be the issue. Maybe, I can get a new spring and remove old spring and stretch it a bit a see how that will go, though I have not looked underneath the pedals yet to see what kind of return system it has. Just an idea...

Very interesting experience from everyone and it is nice to know that I am not the only one in this forum. Keep them coming please, maybe one guy might know the solution.