92 FJ80 radiator (1 Viewer)

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sea bass said:
There are a lot of good threads on mud on draining and adjusting your fan clutch I've done it quite a few times it's pretty easy
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Did you bake it? I have read a few threads. It has the original which seems to work good but thought changing the oil might be helpful.
 
. Yeah you should change oil after 20 years or so it needs to be changed I put mine in the oven at a very low heat for about an hour then if you can when it comes out of the oven let it sit overnight to get all the oil out
 
You can adjust the swash plate inside that lets the oil in at a lower engine temperature and that fan will come on sooner
 
I have mine adjusted so it is constantly roaring I have two clutches one for summer one for winter they have different oils and a swash plate is set differently
 
sea bass said:
I have mine adjusted so it is constantly roaring I have two clutches one for summer one for winter they have different oils and a swash plate is set differently
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Thanks. I will change oil only and see how it does.
 
Update:

I got my CSF 2709 radiator installed and now my hood will not close. It is hitting my radiator cap? The hood needs another 3/8" to latch.

Did anyone else have these issues? It installed very easily and everything matched up. Luckily I have not added anti-freeze yet.

To those who have a CSF what model # do you own.

Three long days working on this truck oil pan gasket / water pump/ thermostat and radiator.

The oil pan was a pain and very time consuming. It was like watching wet paint dry.

Cheers.

Hefe
 
I installed the 2709, I cannot remember having any issues with the hood closing. I assume you had to move the bottom "wings" from the old radiator over to the new one. Any chance you installed them too high? Did you have any issues with the upper/front bolts lining up during the install?
 
Installed the same Radiator in my 92 no issues with the radiator cap hitting the hood
 
OK guys I need to apologize. The radiator fit perfectly and is not hitting the hood. It was a very long day yesterday. Went back out this morning with a well rested head and realized it was actually fine. Thank you all for your responses. Filled with antifreeze and got all the air out of the system and it appears to be running well. I will check temps tomorrow.

Thanks again.

HEFE
 
CDmpc said:
Went through several defective Koyo's(yes real Koyo) last year before I went with CSF. Should have done it to begin with.....no issues.
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I just read that you had some defective Koyos, can you elaborate? I have been having issues ever since installing my Koyo and I'm considering switching to an OEM from CDan.
 
zachwalker18 said:
I just read that you had some defective Koyos, can you elaborate? I have been having issues ever since installing my Koyo and I'm considering switching to an OEM from CDan.
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Just curious but what issues are you having? What year is your truck?
 
HEFE said:
Just curious but what issues are you having? What year is your truck?
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Mine is a 94. I never had a single issue with running hot, but about 4 months ago, my original radiator (22 years old) started to leak. I searched this forum and decided on the Koyo. While I was in the system, I did the full flush, new hoses, new water pump, new thermostat and new radiator cap. Everything seemed fine, but then I went wheeling and started to get hot. I checked everything again and pulled the t-stat and measured it. It opened as expected (and about 8 degrees earlier than the one I replaced). I decided to do the fan clutch mod. I started with 10K in the black hub clutch. I then upped it to 30K and tested the opening temp in the pan of water. It is set to open between 95 and 105 degrees. I am still having issues with the truck running hot. This only happens in heavy stop and go traffic at 100+ degrees, when towing a trailer up a pass or when wheeling (slow, low gear, uphill over 90 degrees). I bought and installed the Koso gauge to verify my findings and I find that even at 80 degrees outside temp, I run in the high 190s and yesterday on the way home, I hit near 220. Anyway, the radiator is the last part that I feel could be causing my issue.
 
radiator tanks(top and bottom parts) are serviceable.
Are the tanks discontinued?
 
 
Last edited:
I have found the same ones and a few CSF 2709

Which radiator cools better? Is the ???
Aluminum
Copper/brass
Aluminum w/ plastic tank
 
My 92 has a Koyo all-copper one and looks to be in great shape. The "coolant" in it was rusty brown water when I bought it so it's definitely seen some abuse.
 
DieselDriver said:
I have found the same ones and a few CSF 2709

Which radiator cools better? Is the ???
Aluminum
Copper/brass
Aluminum w/ plastic tank
Click to expand...

I've been trying to research this as well and most experiments indicate that a well constructed radiator (aluminum or copper/brass) will cool about equally as well. There are some pluses and minuses to each material however. I was surprised to learn that aluminum is stronger in this application and it is inherently lighter weight as well. Aluminum is also less expensive.

I pulled the trigger on an all aluminum on (the one in my link above) since it was a decent price and the reviews of that company's other radiators were quite good. I did read that toget the full life expectancy out of the Aluminum need to make sure you flush all the crap out of your existing system prior to installing a new one - or it'll corrode quickly. I was going to go with the other, more stock looking copper/brass unit, but I thought I'd be a Guinness pig - I mean guinea pig.:beer:
 
Thanks for the research!
My corvette has all aluminum radiator, I was leaning towards that for the LC. I will most likely pull the trigger on the same one.
Post back on fit....
 
Copper (as a metal) conducts heat way better, but in a radiator it is hampered by the solder used to braze the fins to the core, as well as less surface area due to the weaker metal needing to be thicker. Apparently it is mostly a wash. I think ultimately it does not matter as long as you have good airflow. I liked the copper rad in my 88 minitruck as I could solder the holes in it and fix it myself, but when it got too bad to fix I bought a $57 aluminum/plastic one with a lifetime warranty.
 
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