80 series sputter. RTH'ish driving (2 Viewers)

[LandCruzrNY]

What is this sensor called at advanced or oreilley?

 

[Kernal]

I might wash that area off well first and recheck in order to see if the leak is coming from the sensor itself or somewhere else. That is a threaded hole with nothing in it (at least not in the US FZJ80) below the sensor.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

I might wash that area off well first and recheck in order to see if the leak is coming from the sensor itself or somewhere else. That is a threaded hole with nothing in it (at least not in the US FZJ80) below the sensor.

When running and hot there is a tiny tiny drip every few minutes. The sensor was replaced last year, so I will reinstall with some permatex. Then get a look at the other sensor. Not sure what the other one is called at a parts store.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

Sprayed carburetor cleaner while running, nothing happened. Hit all vacuum lines. Nothing. Not surprised though because it only does it while in motion.

Idling it never occurs, never. No CEL.

ECT gauge sensor was leaking a bit, replaced it. No difference.

If it were knock sensor I'd be getting a code wouldn't I?

Could it be drive shafts need to be greased?

Any other suggestions?

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm going to totally "shift gears" on you.

Place the truck in Low Range and advise if it still does it.

Low range should give you a CDL light on the dash indicating your center differential is locked.

If it does not do it low range, then we're going to try the same thing in high range except, you have to do a couple things to keep the CDL locked.

If it does NOT do it in low range, then proceed.:
Place truck in low range until the CDL light is on and it has locked the CDL.
Put it back in Park and shut it off.
Remove the 30A DIFF fuse in the lower right of the fuse block by your left knee.
Restart the truck and place the transfer case into high range.
The CDL light should remain on.

Try the start and stop and before, but try NOT to do tight turns on dry pavement, as the center differential is locked and it makes much more strain on the drive line.

If the problem is gone, you may have stripped drive flanged on the front hubs and the poor acceleration you are feeling is the viscous coupler in the transfer case compensating until it gets enough resistance that you can take off. Continuous operation like this can burn out the VC.

Please advise your test results.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

I'm going to totally "shift gears" on you.

Place the truck in Low Range and advise if it still does it.

Low range should give you a CDL light on the dash indicating your center differential is locked.

If it does not do it low range, then we're going to try the same thing in high range except, you have to do a couple things to keep the CDL locked.

If it does NOT do it in low range, then proceed.:
Place truck in low range until the CDL light is on and it has locked the CDL.
Put it back in Park and shut it off.
Remove the 30A DIFF fuse in the lower right of the fuse block by your left knee.
Restart the truck and place the transfer case into high range.
The CDL light should remain on.

Try the start and stop and before, but try NOT to do tight turns on dry pavement, as the center differential is locked and it makes much more strain on the drive line.

If the problem is gone, you may have stripped drive flanged on the front hubs and the poor acceleration you are feeling is the viscous coupler in the transfer case compensating until it gets enough resistance that you can take off. Continuous operation like this can burn out the VC.

Please advise your test results.

Great test, didn't think it was possible to get 4 high locked without a button.

It does the same in low.

But...

Driveshafts appeared dry. Lubed them well front and rear on both. Problems gone. Who would've thunk?!?

 

[LandCruzrNY]

I looked at my logbook, shame on me, drive shafts have not been lubricated since 2018.

 

[Kernal]

Wait, what did I miss, greasing the driveline fixed the issue??

You said in your first post:

"When I leave a red light and push on the gas, it sputters a little bit"

So I guess we should have asked you to define "sputters a little bit"
a little bit more better.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

Wait, what did I miss, greasing the driveline fixed the issue??

You said in your first post:

"When I leave a red light and push on the gas, it sputters a little bit"

So I guess we should have asked you to define "sputters a little bit"
a little bit more better.

I agree. The sputter Really felt like it was water than the gas. But I knew it wasn't that. Then I thought about the vacuum, and things that other people suggested. And I was completely shocked when I found this to be the issue.

I had two people who were mechanics drive it yesterday and this morning. Both of them said it felt like there should be a check engine light and that it was either a sensor or perhaps a bad fuel filter or mass airflow sensor.

I am completely shocked that it was the driveshaft, but it absolutely was. I've driven another 300 miles since this morning and have had zero issue. In fact, it just drives better. Typical Cruiser. It just wanted to maintenance.