FJ60Seth
SILVER Star
I have the "classic" rear 4plus bumper on my 60. One of the swing arms is a little bit stiff to move. How do I lubricate the pivot? I can't see how to un-assemble it.
4plus Swing-out Pivot Lubrication (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter FJ60Seth
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I don't have one (wish I did), but don't those have oil-impregnated bronze bushing ? If yes, I'd just squirt some light machine oil, like 3-in-1 and let is soak until you can get it apart and grease it. IIRC, isn't there a collar with a set-screw that holds the pivot on ?
Yes. You'll have to remove the collar to get the arm off. Seems like several posters have drilled/tapped the pivot and installed a grease fitting to avoid having to take it off. I didn't do that (short on time, tools, and knowledge) when I installed my 4+ bumper earlier this year. That would, however, be a good project for next year.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 225
- Messages
- 20,974
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
A, This is correct. Dave and I use the impregnated bronze bushings. 3 in 1 oil is all that is needed, HOWEVER, NO GREASE! Yes, a shaft set collar holds the assembly down and to the spindle.
If trash has built up inside the collar (I doubt this is the case, pretty tight tolerances) take a Scotch-Brite/ SOS kitchen pad and scrub the I.D. of the collar and then add the 3 in 1 before installing.
J
So, uh...why no grease? What happens if you used grease?
Asking for "a friend" *ahem*
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 225
- Messages
- 20,974
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
Tolerances yes, BUT some greases contain acids in them and in the long run will "wash" the oil from the bushing causing a "galling" action. The bronze is much softer than the steel and wears the bushing much faster. However, with the reduction of the impregnated oil... the bushing becomes tighter and causes excessive friction and wears the bushing faster.
J
So if someone were to have greased theirs, it would just be a matter of thoroughly cleaning it and applying some 3-in-1 oil before reassembly as long as no damage has been done yet?
Note: I haven't done this. I don't even have one to do it on
Note: I haven't done this. I don't even have one to do it on
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 225
- Messages
- 20,974
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
So if someone were to have greased theirs, it would just be a matter of thoroughly cleaning it and applying some 3-in-1 oil before reassembly as long as no damage has been done yet?
Note: I haven't done this. I don't even have one to do it on
Spook/Frank,
I would simply clean it, inspect it for any heavy grooves/gouges and then re-install per the mfg recommendation. Bunting and National Bronze both recommend light oil/3 in 1 only. Also these bushing are made to be used in a daily operated environment. IMO, it would take quite some time to damage the bearing, even by using grease vs oil. I just want to put it out there what the proper installation method/maintenance is for this type of bushing.
J
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 225
- Messages
- 20,974
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
Take a hammer handle and wedge it between the arm and the bumper shell. Push down on the handle and pull the arm towards you at the same time. May need to rock the arm back and forth but it will start to come up.
J
@FJ60Seth
On the cap, use a long drift or chisel and catch the edges of the cap, tapping upward. Alternate at least two different spots, 180deg apart.
Once it starts moving it will come of faster. It's better to be patient and remove it little at a time. I'm generally short on 3 and 1 as a brand but I have used WD40 and similar penetrating oils. I spray a little around the top and like Jason said, put pressure upwards on the arm by prying between the channel and arm. As you put steady pressure on the arm, swing the arm back and forth. It will walk up the shaft. It will probably have surface rust and very fine dirt in there.
Clean it off, spray a little light oil of your favorite brand on the hinge and in the bushings and reassemble. In dusty environments like AZ, I have to
clean up mine every 5 or 6 years
On the cap, use a long drift or chisel and catch the edges of the cap, tapping upward. Alternate at least two different spots, 180deg apart.
Once it starts moving it will come of faster. It's better to be patient and remove it little at a time. I'm generally short on 3 and 1 as a brand but I have used WD40 and similar penetrating oils. I spray a little around the top and like Jason said, put pressure upwards on the arm by prying between the channel and arm. As you put steady pressure on the arm, swing the arm back and forth. It will walk up the shaft. It will probably have surface rust and very fine dirt in there.
Clean it off, spray a little light oil of your favorite brand on the hinge and in the bushings and reassemble. In dusty environments like AZ, I have to
clean up mine every 5 or 6 years
