2F Rebuild question...

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by wisc60, Jul 24, 2005.

  1. wisc60

    wisc60

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Middleton, WI
    Hi, I've already done 2 fj40 engine swaps and now have an fj60. I want to keep the original engine, but don't know the best options for max power/torque and gas mileage.

    I know I'm not going to get a lot of extra speed thats not really what I'm after. I'm really looking for reliability that won't break the bank (does that ever happen?).

    This is my first 2F rebuild so any advice would be helpful.

    This is what I have in the plans for the immediate future....

    H55 Tranny
    32/36 Carb for max fuel effeciency
    Header
    Electronic ignition from JT Outfitters
    Duel electric fans-trying to reduce any engine load possible
    Stock engine rebuild kit from JT Outfitters
    Transfer Case rebuild kit
    New HD Clutch
    Cat Back exhaust
    New Coil
    New PS pump-current leaking like crazy

    Mostly I'm worried about rebuilding this engine and still having leaks everywhere. I've been told it's almost hopeless to get these things real tight.

    Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. Brad
  2. 3_puppies

    3_puppies SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,090
    Location:
    Helena MT
    not sure on JT's prices, others have gotten rebuilds from Paclift, it's a toyota forklift place, same engine.

    I've never delt with JT, but I here there service stinks, from other posts.

    why does it need a rebuild? there are motors going strong with 300,000 + miles, and it's not hard to not have any leaks.

    myself I would stay with the stock aisen carb, have Jim C rebuild it.


    I'm sure others will chime in
  3. wisc60

    wisc60

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Middleton, WI
    Excuse my ignorance, but who is Jim C? Should I just go back to my old staple of swapping engines? It almost seems like more trouble to deal w/an engine I'm not that familiar with. A crate 350 might be less hassle?
  4. 60wag

    60wag SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,866
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    I'm very happy with the difference between a tired 2F and a freshly rebuilt 2F. Other than an 0.05" head shave and a 2.5" exhaust mine is stock - stock carb, exhaust manifold and full smog hardware. If you've built a V8, you can build a 2F. It's not hard, just don't overlook the simple stuff - like double checking all bolt torques. I'd keep it stock, but that's me.
  5. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

    Messages:
    11,018
    Location:
    Knee deep in hookers and gin
    Don't do the Weber. A jim Chenoweth carb rebuild is the ticket. FJ40jim on the forum, IIRC.

    An OEM rebuilt kit is not unreasonable from C-dan and comes with OEM parts. May be worth looking into. If you go with the JTO parts, ask for Joe, then hope a lot. Even then, i wouldn't start the rebuild until I had parts in hand.
  6. Mike S

    Mike S

    Messages:
    2,536
    Wisc60...

    A few comments on your plans. Worth what it's costing you, no doubt.

    H55 Tranny - Great move. You'll like it.

    32/36 Carb for max fuel effeciency - Go with rebuilt stock carb. mo' betta. Has fuel cut-off solenoid and good function on inclines.

    Header - Are you going to desmog the engine?**

    Electronic ignition from JT Outfitters - the 60 already has electronic ignition, and it's very good.

    Duel electric fans-trying to reduce any engine load possible - AC is a bigger drag. Electric fans are good on the highway, but doubious on the trail.

    Stock engine rebuild kit from JT Outfitters - Don't know this stuff I hope it's OEM parts.
    Transfer Case rebuild kit - always a good idea.

    New HD Clutch - The standard OEM is outstanding and lasts a long time, use OEM

    Cat Back exhaust - Good idea.

    New Coil - 60's use a unified coil/igniter and it's works great

    New PS pump-current leaking like crazy - Very important to get this fixed.

    ** If you're planning on a desmog, you could lose the smog pump and replace with an idler pulley.

    Jim C is the guy to talk to about rebuilding the barb and desmogging your 2F. He gets good performance out of these engines. Do a search - "FJ40Jim".

    M.
  7. Fearnofish!

    Fearnofish!

    Messages:
    264
    Location:
    Hamilton, MT
    I have similar plans and have begun the process. I replaced the oil pump and therefore the pan seal and no leaks. Not one. Also I emailed Jim C about the carb and he said 300 bucks. Better than the the now 600$ weber! I also went with the DUI ignition. Wow, talk about an upgrade. Also a top shelf battery makes a big difference. I'm on teh fence about the desmog. I keep reading about the benefits but fear the potential move to a E-check state and have to scramble to RE-smog.
    Keep us posted.
    Oh yeah, Downey off-road have a torquer cam that rocks.
    Don't forget to repair the rust! POR-15!!
  8. Godwin

    Godwin Resident Herpetologist SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,645
    Location:
    Alabama
    Paclift update. Al, the guy that handled the parts orders, retired about a year and half ago. I called Paclift about a month ago to place an order and the new guy (don't remember his name) knew next to nothing about the 2F's in Cruisers. The price of an engine kit was still reasonable but there would have been at least a month's delay in the shipment as the parts were not in stock and had to come from overseas. From this I decided to pass on Paclift.
  9. wisc60

    wisc60

    Messages:
    43
    Location:
    Middleton, WI
    Guys,Thanks for all the information. Saving me time and $$$!. Mike S. , I was planning on de-smog but am hesitant from all the problems people have with it.
  10. I was curious as to how much the rebuild kit cost in the US and what brand you get?
  11. nikos8

    nikos8

    Messages:
    469
    Location:
    New York City
    I'm sorry to hear that Al retired from PacLift. Very knowledgeble guy. I bought their kit for the 2f about a year ago. I liked their kit because they used parts from the vendors toyota uses and the price was very reasonable. wisc60, it is not that difficult to rebuild this engine but the details are what make the difference between a good rebuild and a bad rebuild and I'll second or third or fourth Jim C. rebuilding your carb.

  12. bernefj60

    bernefj60

    Messages:
    166
    what problems? I've been desmogged for 7 years now and the biggest problem i had was trying to find a place to find all the crap that came off. definitely a much happier motor now that she's cleaned of all the automotive kudzu.

    Rob
  13. GLTHFJ60

    GLTHFJ60 Rum Runnin' SILVER Star

    Messages:
    13,853
    Location:
    Durham, NC
    Did you ever think of putting a turbo on for power?

    :beer:
  14. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,929
    Location:
    Lancaster, Ohio, USA
    Brad,
    You PM'ed me w/ these questions, but I'll reply here on the board for everybody's amusement.
    An expensive upgrade, but very nice to drive. It will give a slight increase in MPG, but prolly not enough to ever make the financial payback. Do it 'cause you like driving the truck.
    For best MPG, rebuild the t-case at the same time and run synth gear oil in everything.
    The H55 will allow running 4.11 axle gears w/ the 33" tires and still have a decent top gear. 33" tires/3.70 axles/H55 may give a top gear that turns the engine too slow for optimum MPG.

    Don't do this. If restricted air intake is a desired method of improved MPG, just mis-adjust the throttle linkage to only allow 60% carb opening when pedal is floored. This will keep Toyota reliability/simplicity while achieving max MPG.

    Good idea. Use chrome or ceramic coat for best thermal efficiency. Install the hot water heat riser from MAF for better MPG.

    Note that I don't run headers on my own Cruisers, 'cause they are all junk that doesn't fit well. I'll sacrifice the 1MPG for quiet simplicity.

    FJ60 already has a HEI system w/ variable dwell module. Money for iginition is best spent on good wires, plugs and recurving the distributor for non-smog use.

    Not simple or reliable. There is already a belt spinning the WP, might as well stick a clutch fan on the front of it. Note that the clutch fans are problematic and require frequent replacement, usually every 15 years or 180K miles :rolleyes:

    There is no rebuild kit. You're just paying JTO to put a gasket kit, pistons, bearings, etc. in a box for you. I strongly recommend buying your hard parts through the machine shop/parts store that does your machine work. That way, when the mains don't fit it is 100% their problem. Gasket kits are currently pretty cheap from MAF.

    yes, good idea w/ the H55.

    Stock clutch is more than adequate for 2F power levels. New OEM clutches can be had for very reasonable price from local Advance stores. Get an Aisin clutch, not Daikin knockoff. Aisin is Toy OEM, Daikin is Subaru OEM. good enough for subie is not good enough for Cruiser :D

    Definitely need to do that to make maximum use of the header.

    There is nothing to be gained. The stock coil lights the fire quite well. If a bigger spark is desired, just increase secondary resistance (open the plug gap).

    Common problem. I've had good luck w/ remans from local Carquest store. Install an inline PS filter while you're at it.

    It is difficult because they weren't designed w/ tight sealing in mind. Fortunately, w/ newer gaskets and the latest gasket sealant/adhesive, it is no problem to seal up a 2F today.

    Free advice:
    Increase combustion efficiency: polish chambers, straighten ports, oversize stainless valves, good spark plugs, make the stock cold ram air system effective by disabling vacuum door.
    Balance the rotating & reciprocating assemblies. These things are off by OUNCES sometimes.
    Run skinnier tires. 33x10.50R15 on 15x8 wheel or 235/85R16 on 16x6 wheels.
    Reduce aerodynamic drag: leave off roof racks, bush bars, winches, external spare tires, oversize FJ62 mirrors, etc. if not needed.
    Reduce mechanical friction: use synthetic oils in driveline and engine.
    For best reliability & MPG, desmog per the diagram in tech links.
  15. fj40Matt

    fj40Matt

    Messages:
    117
    Location:
    Minnesota
    Do 60-series use the double-wall downpipe? If so what do you do about replacement for rusted out downpipes? Have you seen a significant difference in noise/heat with a regular 'ol exhaust pipe?

    Do the fully electronic FJ40s have variable dwell as well? I had always assumed not since they heat up with the key on/motor off.

    Thanks for the informative post. :)
  16. dd113

    dd113 Supporting Vendor

    Messages:
    2,838
    Get a rebuilt stock carb from Jim C, Webber is not all that.
    I would reconsider the header but if you get one get the good 2 piece ceramic coated one
    Have your machine shop provide all rebuild parts
    Get yout TC kit from Cruiser outfitters
    HD clutch is not worth the money if there is any such thing, get a new OEM clutch
    \What ele ignition? FJ 60 already has ele ignition. Send your dist to JIm C for performance rebuild
    DOnt wast your money on cat back exhaust. Maybe consider a hi flow cat and new pipes all the way through. Any good exhaust shop can do it
    WHy a new coil?
    Get an OEM pump
  17. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,929
    Location:
    Lancaster, Ohio, USA
    No. AFAIK, all 81-newer 2F downpipes are single wall, mild stainless.

    Haven't seen a rusted out 81-newer, yet. It is mild stainless, which does rust at elevated temperatures, but it may take 30 or 50 years.

    I am not sure if the double wall headpipe was for emissions purposes or just to reduce engine bay/cabin heat. Haven't noticed any difference between early double wall pipe and later single wall pipe noise/heat levels.

    All 81-newer (finned aluminum case) ignitors are variable dwell. FJ40/60/70 w/ elec ignition.

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