2.5" OME Install on LX450 - Can't tighten top shock bolts (1 Viewer)

[strangerdanger]

Hey All,

First time poster. Picked up a new to me 97 LX450 and after reading way too much here and visiting cruiserfest, decided step 1 would be to replace the stock jello suspension with an OME setup. Went with the 2.5" medium from Slee, and like everyone says, they were great.

Installation has been a breeze, well removal anyway... The truck is remarkably clean, not sure it's ever seen salt. But, when I went to torque the top shock nuts in front, I wasn't able to. The top half of the shock body just spins.

1) After googling around it looks like it's possible to damage the shock from excessive spinning, true? If so... I might end up replacing the suspension twice.
2) How am I supposed to hold the thing still? It has a plastic guard around it so I can't just grab it and hold it. Only need to get to ~50 foot/lbs...

Thanks in advance.

 

[chap79]

You should be able to hold on to the very top of the shock post with a small wrench while you tighten the nut down if I remember right.

 

[strangerdanger]

D'oh. Yup, I see the flats now. Thanks!

 

[strangerdanger]

Anyone have any insight on this part?

1) After googling around it looks like it's possible to damage the shock from excessive spinning, true? If so... I might end up replacing the suspension twice.
.

 

[baselfish]

indeed two tools needed....

wratcheting wrench (14mm) and a crescent wrench...

slip that top nut down - till the shock spins - then slip you wratcheting wrench over the nut - and use the crescent to hold in
firm whislt you tighten down...

PS is much easier and DS simply due to the space constraints) - otherwise easy breezy...

bF

 

[strangerdanger]

Arggggg spoke too soon. No flats for a crescent on top for the 60018's

 

[96Cruiser]

Arggggg spoke too soon. No flats for a crescent on top for the 60018's

it's right there above the threads........

 

[mydogsmonkey]

it's right there above the threads........

Lol. This man speaks the truth

 

[strangerdanger]

Would anyone be interested in buying my tools? I apparently have no business being around them...

 

[gofast]

Everyone has first times

 

[half k cruiser]

Lol, its a learning experience. The stuff that's taking you so long to do now will seem like a breeze in a few years.

 

[ewillis]

I H8NIPPLES!

 

[chap79]

We all started somewhere. Some sooner than others. Here's to breaking your knuckles.

 

[george_tlc]

Would anyone be interested in buying my tools? I apparently have no business being around them...

Actually you need to buy MORE tools - like: air compressor, air impact gun, decent impact sockets (straight AND swivel) etc etc.

cheers,
george.

 

[retrofive]

Am I missing something here? I just reach under and grabbed the housing of the shock with my hand and wrenched away on the nut on top. Been fine for years.

 

[strangerdanger]

Am I missing something here? I just reach under and grabbed the housing of the shock with my hand and wrenched away on the nut on top. Been fine for years.

Yeah, I that's what I was trying to do but there's a plastic housing around the top of the shock body. It's independent from the body itself so it allows it to spin freely.

The nipple at the top did the trick. What a PITA of a design though. Wish they would have put the flats at the top of the shock body like what's on the rears (60020's.)

All done now though, glad I did this. What a huge huge improvement in ride quality. That body roll at speed was downright frightening.

 

[vegansbane]

The nipple at the top did the trick. What a PITA of a design though. Wish they would have put the flats at the top of the shock body like what's on the rears (60020's.)

Bit of a thread resurrection, but I just got around to doing my front shocks (none of this applies to the rear!) and wanted to share what worked for me.

Since the easiest way to judge adequate tensioning on the stud end of a shock is by looking for compression of the poly bushing (~1/16" expansion is good), rather than torque spec, I hand started the nut and then cinched it down with my impact gun. Using the impact, it's easy to see when the pad starts to bulge, and because it's an impact, the shock didn't try to spin. You can hand hold it to keep it from rotating if you're worried, but the shock's own inertia holds it in place fine.

As Slee mentions, the top nut under the master cylinder is a bit precarious, but with a 6" impact extension and a 19mm swivel impact socket, it was easy. I used the socket from a 7 piece impact swivel set at harbor freight, which while not great, is plenty good enough to fit, and to keep me from buying the much more spendy Snap-On version just to do this one nut.

Hope that proves useful to someone!

 

[willoCo]

As Slee mentions, the top nut under the master cylinder is a bit precarious, but with a 6" impact extension and a 19mm swivel impact socket, it was easy. I used the socket from a 7 piece impact swivel set at harbor freight, which while not great, is plenty good enough to fit, and to keep me from buying the much more spendy Snap-On version just to do this one nut.

I know is't been a while, but this was super helpful. The newer ARB OME shocks don't have a friggin flat anywhere. I have a set of impact wobble extensions, so I grabbed my 16 inch and just fished it up from the bottom. From there the impact got them off. Thanks for that!

 

[runthejoules]

looking for suggestions... my ome fronts came with a nylon locking nut that is so hard to tighten that I’m about to start over with non locking nuts. I’ve got a 8mm wrench on the flats and a 19 ratchet on the nut and I am pulling so hard that it’s starting to round off the flats and I havent even gotten the nut on enough to compress the bushings yet... I’m wondering if I use a heat gun on the nylon nut to soften it if that might help

 

[george_tlc]

^ impact gun, makes short work of it.

cheers,
george.