Installed a whole bunch o' stuff on my 80 this weekend.
My father and I put on OME 850 / 863 coils, OME N73 / N74E shocks, OME caster correction bushings, a Slee front bumper, and a Warn XD 9000 winch on my 1993 FZJ80.
Partay.
The coils and shocks went on really slick. The previous owner had replaced the OEM shocks with Monroes sometime in the past, so we didn't have to wrestle with any bolts. Christo's instructions were right on.
The OME coils are really impressive compared to the OEM coils--they're thicker, heavier, a bit taller, and have more coils. In case you haven't seen the 850s and 863 compared to the OEM coils, here are some pics:
OME vs OEM front:
OME vs OEM rear:
They look nice and shiny when installed:
My stock distance from front hub center to the bottom of the front fender was 19.5 inches. With the OME suspension kit installed on an otherwise stock truck the front hub center to fender bottom distance increased by exactly 3 inches to 22.5 inches.
I forgot to measure the stock rear ride height, but assuming it was the same as the front, I gained 4 inches out back.
Luckily, I also had a Slee front bupmer and a Warn XD9000 winch to put out front.
Putting the XD9000 in the Slee bumper turned out to be a little more complicated than expected. The first problem came when we tried to integrate the bumper, winch, and fairlead.
The XD9000 uses the four front holes on the Slee bumper. The fairlead presumably uses the bottom pair of these same four holes, as well as the holes in the long horizontal tabs and extra long bolts supplied by Slee.
The winch mounts lined up nicely with the four front holes, but the fairlead didn't want to line up with the holes in the horizontal tabs, the lower font holes--and more importantly--the cable slot at the same time.
When lined up with the cable slot centered in the fairlead rollers, the fairlead bolt holes miss the lower front bumper holes, and the vertical rollers are about a half inch below the horzontal tab:
We ended up drilling two new holes in the fairlead and mounted it centered on the cable slot, flush with the horizontal tab, and bolted through the lower front holes and into the winch.
We encountered another minor misfit when we actually bolted on the winch. The bolts supplied by Warn were too small for the slightly oversize slots on the Slee bumper.
You can see how the Warn-supplied washer barely covers the slot in the bumper:
Again, no big deal. We just used bigger washers.
Warn XD9000 mounted in the Slee front bumper:
Finally mounted in the bumper, the winch wouldn't clear the front DS frame rail by a scant couple millimeters. A little bashing (on the fram rail) fixed this problem straightaway.
With bumper and winch installed out front, my lift decreased by exactly one-half inch, netting me exactly the OME advertised 2.5 inches. The rear end is still high, but I've got plans for a custom rear bumper in the works. If I find myself annoyed by the rake I'll throw something heavy in the back until I can get the bumper done.
After wrapping up the suspension and bumper, I thought I'd quickly mount up the OME heavy duty steering damper. I was ultimately foiled by the OEM bushings. Neither of us could figure out how to get the steering damper off. After battling for about a half hour, we decided to give up. If anyone can give me some wisdom describing the removal of the OEM steering damper, I'd appreciate it. I ended up squeezing grease out of a few rubber bushing gasket thingys as well. Please help.
Putting the steering damper behind us, we turned to the OME caster correction bushings.
We marked up the control arms per the OME instructions, removed them, and drove 30 miles to an industrial mineral processing plant where we had access to a hydraulic press.
On the drive in we discussed the procedure described in Christo's instructions. The jig idea sounded like the way to go, and in short order my dad layed out a control arm and some bolts on a fabricating table, fired up a nearby arc welder, and zapped the bolts directly to the fab table in less time than it takes to read the instructions.
Christo's press peice worked flawlessly, and we had the old bushings out and the new ones in and lined up via our jig in no time at all. Unfortunately, we didn't notice our error until we had driven the 30 miles back to the house:
"How NOT to lay out your OME caster bushing jig:"
Rather than measure any center to center distances, we layed out the arms with the stock bushings still installed and welded appropriately sized bolts to the table according to their positions in the stock bushings--this is the right way to do it--our error came when we set up a third bolt in the rear bushing and welded that down too.
After pressing in the new front busing according to our mark on the control arm, we took the arm back to the jig, popped it down on the front bolt AND the rear bolt, and lined up the second OME bushing over the remaining bolt. This kept our center to center distance but it didn't offset the bushing holes correctly. We ended up with two new bushings with their holes both higher than the OEM ones.
Sorry, I forgot to take pictures. Our error was so obvious it was just plain stupid. Your jig should NOT involve the lonely rear bushing in any way whatsoever.
Anyway, things were going so well with the press, we didn't even consider that we had set it all up wrong.
We realized our mistake 40 minues and 30 miles later when we were back under the truck. Needless to say we had to drive all the way back out the the plant ot repress the bushings. We did it right the second time.
The caster arms reinstalled perfectly and the truck drives superbly on the highway. My stock caster angle was pretty much about 4 degrees. I'll get the new caster angle measured as soon as I can and report back.
The new ride feels great. Firmer, yet somehow a little more compliant at the same time. The new shocks settle the chassis quickly. I haven't had it offroad yet, but I've blasted through every dip and speedbump in the neighborhood. I love it. Can't wait to get it out.
Last but not least, here are some pics of the now not-so-stock '93:
Hayes
My father and I put on OME 850 / 863 coils, OME N73 / N74E shocks, OME caster correction bushings, a Slee front bumper, and a Warn XD 9000 winch on my 1993 FZJ80.
Partay.
The coils and shocks went on really slick. The previous owner had replaced the OEM shocks with Monroes sometime in the past, so we didn't have to wrestle with any bolts. Christo's instructions were right on.
The OME coils are really impressive compared to the OEM coils--they're thicker, heavier, a bit taller, and have more coils. In case you haven't seen the 850s and 863 compared to the OEM coils, here are some pics:
OME vs OEM front:
OME vs OEM rear:
They look nice and shiny when installed:
My stock distance from front hub center to the bottom of the front fender was 19.5 inches. With the OME suspension kit installed on an otherwise stock truck the front hub center to fender bottom distance increased by exactly 3 inches to 22.5 inches.
I forgot to measure the stock rear ride height, but assuming it was the same as the front, I gained 4 inches out back.
Luckily, I also had a Slee front bupmer and a Warn XD9000 winch to put out front.
Putting the XD9000 in the Slee bumper turned out to be a little more complicated than expected. The first problem came when we tried to integrate the bumper, winch, and fairlead.
The XD9000 uses the four front holes on the Slee bumper. The fairlead presumably uses the bottom pair of these same four holes, as well as the holes in the long horizontal tabs and extra long bolts supplied by Slee.
The winch mounts lined up nicely with the four front holes, but the fairlead didn't want to line up with the holes in the horizontal tabs, the lower font holes--and more importantly--the cable slot at the same time.
When lined up with the cable slot centered in the fairlead rollers, the fairlead bolt holes miss the lower front bumper holes, and the vertical rollers are about a half inch below the horzontal tab:
We ended up drilling two new holes in the fairlead and mounted it centered on the cable slot, flush with the horizontal tab, and bolted through the lower front holes and into the winch.
We encountered another minor misfit when we actually bolted on the winch. The bolts supplied by Warn were too small for the slightly oversize slots on the Slee bumper.
You can see how the Warn-supplied washer barely covers the slot in the bumper:
Again, no big deal. We just used bigger washers.
Warn XD9000 mounted in the Slee front bumper:
Finally mounted in the bumper, the winch wouldn't clear the front DS frame rail by a scant couple millimeters. A little bashing (on the fram rail) fixed this problem straightaway.
With bumper and winch installed out front, my lift decreased by exactly one-half inch, netting me exactly the OME advertised 2.5 inches. The rear end is still high, but I've got plans for a custom rear bumper in the works. If I find myself annoyed by the rake I'll throw something heavy in the back until I can get the bumper done.
After wrapping up the suspension and bumper, I thought I'd quickly mount up the OME heavy duty steering damper. I was ultimately foiled by the OEM bushings. Neither of us could figure out how to get the steering damper off. After battling for about a half hour, we decided to give up. If anyone can give me some wisdom describing the removal of the OEM steering damper, I'd appreciate it. I ended up squeezing grease out of a few rubber bushing gasket thingys as well. Please help.
Putting the steering damper behind us, we turned to the OME caster correction bushings.
We marked up the control arms per the OME instructions, removed them, and drove 30 miles to an industrial mineral processing plant where we had access to a hydraulic press.
On the drive in we discussed the procedure described in Christo's instructions. The jig idea sounded like the way to go, and in short order my dad layed out a control arm and some bolts on a fabricating table, fired up a nearby arc welder, and zapped the bolts directly to the fab table in less time than it takes to read the instructions.
Christo's press peice worked flawlessly, and we had the old bushings out and the new ones in and lined up via our jig in no time at all. Unfortunately, we didn't notice our error until we had driven the 30 miles back to the house:
"How NOT to lay out your OME caster bushing jig:"
Rather than measure any center to center distances, we layed out the arms with the stock bushings still installed and welded appropriately sized bolts to the table according to their positions in the stock bushings--this is the right way to do it--our error came when we set up a third bolt in the rear bushing and welded that down too.
After pressing in the new front busing according to our mark on the control arm, we took the arm back to the jig, popped it down on the front bolt AND the rear bolt, and lined up the second OME bushing over the remaining bolt. This kept our center to center distance but it didn't offset the bushing holes correctly. We ended up with two new bushings with their holes both higher than the OEM ones.
Sorry, I forgot to take pictures. Our error was so obvious it was just plain stupid. Your jig should NOT involve the lonely rear bushing in any way whatsoever.
Anyway, things were going so well with the press, we didn't even consider that we had set it all up wrong.
We realized our mistake 40 minues and 30 miles later when we were back under the truck. Needless to say we had to drive all the way back out the the plant ot repress the bushings. We did it right the second time.
The caster arms reinstalled perfectly and the truck drives superbly on the highway. My stock caster angle was pretty much about 4 degrees. I'll get the new caster angle measured as soon as I can and report back.
The new ride feels great. Firmer, yet somehow a little more compliant at the same time. The new shocks settle the chassis quickly. I haven't had it offroad yet, but I've blasted through every dip and speedbump in the neighborhood. I love it. Can't wait to get it out.
Last but not least, here are some pics of the now not-so-stock '93:
Hayes
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