How to unlock a locked locker? (1 Viewer)

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e9999

e9999

Gotta get outta here...
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this other post about the Shift stick that won't go out of Park reminded me of (one of) my other great paranoid fear(s): the locked locker!

I started developing this particular affliction when test driving prospective 80s. Namely, i could see myself trying out the lockers on the test drive and the thing not unlocking and me being either stuck in the boonies or having to drive the 80 back all locked up on the asphalt (nah! wouldn't do that...). Fortunately, never happened, but I got worried a couple of times during my test drives.

But anyways, I think it might save somebody's day -not to mention drivetrain- if some savvy advice might be given here about how to handle that potential situation.


So let's say that you are all locked up out there. You unlock the F/R with the switch and put it back in High and lo and behold your -say- front locker is stuck on Locked. You can tell cuz the steering is weird (I don't know if the light would show it or not - anybody knows?) I know the electric stuff may be telling it that it should unlock, but let's say it's rusty and it's in there good!

Now, what do we do after trying a million times to unlock it electrically?

Could somebody tell us what to do under there, what to remove and how? I can imagine the actuator or at least the propeller shaft (but that would not protect the front diff...)

The floor is yours!

thanks
Eric

(and -Junk- if there is good stuff here, that might be a good FAQ topic?)
 
It is not very likely that a recently locked locker would freeze up unless there was an electrical problem such as a ripped harness or blown fuse or the like. If that is the case it is possible to maually apply power to the actuator and get it to move. You would need an EWD to get the correct terminals and would likely need to raise one tire off of the ground to relieve the axle wind-up since you would not be able to drive it while you are laying under it to jump the pesky terminals ::)

In "normal" unlocking where they won't unlock it is because the drive train is "wound-up" and the pressure needs to be relieved. This can be accomplished by driving the vehicle in an arc with the switch off.

D-
 
geeez, Dan, you're taking the easy way out! ;)
Let's say it's really stuck in there, electricity be danged...
What do I remove, bang on, pull hard at, unscrew or whatever?
E
 
give this thread a read for ways to unlock it manually, the shift fork and locker itself are bathed in gear lube and "should" not be the source of any problems, I would think corrosion in the actuator would be more likely

https://forum.ih8mud.com/index.php?board=2;action=display;threadid=13662;start=msg127026#msg127026

[quote author=e9999 link=board=2;threadid=13988;start=msg129918#msg129918 date=1080698045]
(I don't know if the light would show it or not - anybody knows?)

thanks
Eric
[/quote]


looking at the ewd the dash bulbs have constant + power, the position switch (not the limit switches inside the actuator that tell the diff lock ecu to kill power to the motor) but the external position switch) gives the bulb ground so it can light, this is independent of every thing else in the system, if your lockers are locked you will get a light (providing no failure in the bulb wiring and position switch) there is a second ground for the bulbs through the diff lock ECU I assume this is where the blinking light comes from, I think that when you select a locker to lock the ecu provides a pulsed ground to the bulb making it blink, when the locker locks the position switch provides a steady ground and the bulb stays lit

the switch rides on the shift fork and reads actual locker position no matter where the actuator is trying to go
 
My rear locker recently locked and would not disengage. It froze just like it does when it won't lock. The engagement pin seized in the bore more than the spring pressure would move it. It was trying to unlock, but wouldn't move. No amount of jumpering pins would have made it unlock.

Take out the cover bolts and move the pin back with a screwdriver. Worst case, take the spring out and you can pound the pin back to disengaged, but it would have to be really stuck and probably would not have engaged.
 
[quote author=RavenTai link=board=2;threadid=13988;start=msg129959#msg129959 date=1080700664]
the shift fork and locker itself are bathed in gear lube and "should" not be the source of any problems, I would think corrosion in the actuator would be more likely

[/quote]

[quote author=Gumby link=board=2;threadid=13988;start=msg129997#msg129997 date=1080703285]
My rear locker recently locked and would not disengage. It froze just like it does when it won't lock. The engagement pin seized in the bore more than the spring pressure would move it. It was trying to unlock, but wouldn't move. No amount of jumpering pins would have made it unlock.

Take out the cover bolts and move the pin back with a screwdriver. Worst case, take the spring out and you can pound the pin back to disengaged, but it would have to be really stuck and probably would not have engaged.
[/quote]

LOL always nice to instantly be prooved wrong, goes to show how you have to look out for Murphy :cheers:
 
How about the simple solution - you just drive with them locked. You needed them at some point - so leave them on and get to the trailhead. At that point, you can make a decision to hoble to the next town/home or call and have it flat towed, and then deal with it.

I see something like a broken birf as being more problematic as it requires an actual field repair to move the truck.

Cheers, Hugh
 
sure, Hugh, but what I'm trying to find out is if there are -say- 2 bolts to remove and 2 mins worth of work to get the frozen actuator out. And know what these are. If so, I'd rather do that than walk 30 miles in the desert...
;)
E
 
My point is that having your diffs locked does not prevent you from moving (especially in a sandy desert :D) - this is not a leave-you-stuck-in-the-middle-of-the-desert kind of problem.

IIRC (Dan?), the diff actuator is theoretically not servicable (but can be) = lots of springs and things to take care of.

So, why wouldn't you just drive out?

PS, From my old locking-hub days, I find that if the lockers are sticky, turning them off and backing-up to unwind the transmission typically unlocks them.

Cheers, Hugh
 
oooops, typo nonsense of mine above. Of course, if you are still in the desert you can drive with the lockers locked, in a pinch.
I meant walking back from where you'd have to leave the truck (I'd hate to leave my baby alone too....)
Eric
 
[quote author=CDN_Cruiser link=board=2;threadid=13988;start=msg130262#msg130262 date=1080748171]
My point is that having your diffs locked does not prevent you from moving (especially in a sandy desert :D) - this is not a leave-you-stuck-in-the-middle-of-the-desert kind of problem.

IIRC (Dan?), the diff actuator is theoretically not servicable (but can be) = lots of springs and things to take care of.

So, why wouldn't you just drive out?

PS, From my old locking-hub days, I find that if the lockers are sticky, turning them off and backing-up to unwind the transmission typically unlocks them.

Cheers, Hugh
[/quote]

Driving on pavement with locked difs is gonna be a lot more strain on expensive parts than just climbing under the truck, taking out the four bolts on the actuator cover and pushing the pin back into place. Like you say, though, try backing, or turning in a circle, or rocking or something first.
 
I think the actuator motor pushes over the shift fork which, in turn, engages the locker. So that would suggest you remove the 2 nuts holding down the actuator, try to push the fork over (screwdriver?). I guess it would really be pulling the fork back (outwards)?
 
If you have a stuck front a quick 'n dirty thing you could do is pop one of the drive flanges off. That would return some of your steering properties. Of course you would need to cover the exposed hub with something to keep crap out of the greasy bits.


D-
 
sounds like a clever plan, except that I have no idea what a drive flange is... :p
but I trust ya Dan!
E
 
Yer killin' me.... ::)

Come on Grasshopper, you can be better......... :birf:
 
I remember when Dan was convincing me to do my birfs myself instead of having the dealer do it.

The major reason was "knowledge is power". This is a good example of why a guy should do most of the service himself - when the issues do arise in the field, you know how to deal with it. Do your birfs and you'll know the flange plus lots of other important stuff.

Good idea on the flange Dan but I hope this is never needed.

Riley
 
dang it, so what does this flange thing do and why will it help?

(does seem to this uninitiated, though, that removing the actuator might be easier - if one can do that)?

E
 
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