This may be the solution...
ChuckD
Mechanical Clutch Problems
FROZEN CLUTCH.-When a clutch fails to disengage, it is frozen. Failure of the clutch to disengage may be caused by a defective clutch mechanism or by water absorbed in the material that lines the clutch plates.
When...
Clutch disengage
I have the same problem sometimes.
ChuckD
Mechanical Clutch Problems
FROZEN CLUTCH.-When a clutch fails to disengage, it is frozen. Failure of the clutch to disengage may be caused by a defective clutch mechanism or by water absorbed in the material that lines the...
Good ideas. Thanks everyone. There must not be any one obvious correct/ideal approach to this since there are so many different solutions people are using. Putting a chain over the leaf springs would be the easiest solution but I was hesitant to put the stress of constant downward pull on the...
Thanks for the feedback and helpful tips. I am somewhat convinced that the axles are the preferred location to attach. I just don't see a real good spot to connect that allows the chains to be pulled toward the trailer side rails without hitting the tires, shocks, brake lines, etc. I believe...
I am looking for the best locations on front and rear axles to connect a chain or axle strap. Does anyone have photos showing how you do it? Hopefully someone has the perfect configuration.
:cheers:
Thanks, ChuckD
Hey Omar. I've been busy working on a million things and as of most lately a valve way out of whack on the 80. Looks like the head may have to come off. 250k miles. bummer.
ChuckD
You shouldn't need to remove radiator/shroud. Just regular socket
(not deep socket) and ratchet will work. Due to stuff nearby I can only do partial turns so it takes about 10 times to rotate one full revolution. You may have too long of a socket. It will be close even with a short...
Exhaust valve gap .762 - way out of tolerance!
Hey there, looking for some advice. Should I simply replace this shim to bring valve back to spec or does a valve this far off suggest a deeper problem brewing? I can do the shim but why just one valve so different? Oddly, on me spare '93 fzj80...
Romer, thanks for the direction. I've found lots of good info reading through those FAQs but is there really specific info about the induction service? can't find it. This is where they hook up the hose to diff locations to TB (I assume) and run a chemical through. $99 at the dealership...
So maybe it's as simple as pressurizing the cylinder and when it bottoms out then the valves are all closed...? Then keep on down the head doing each cyl. Or do the dizzy trick. (it didn't occur to me that when the dizzy points at a cyl it's go-time and the valves need to be shut to capture...
I was going to do this while the valve cover was off to see the cam lobes but thought that may interfere with one of the tests, ie, air coming from the throttle body or something.
Good point about the pressurized cylinder. Any other ideas out there?
ChuckD
Hi, looking for info about this process for a do-it-yourselfer? I have the canister tool but do not know where/how to hook it up. 94FZJ80. (yeah, its really fuel injected even though the parts dunce at dealership insisted my truck was carbureted!! lol)
Thanks, ChuckD
That's the trick, how much do you rotate crank to get the next cyl to shut all valves. I was hoping there is a "method", ie, turn crank 1/2 rotation, etc.
Thanks for the reply. ChuckD :beer:
Is there a trick to closing valves to run leakdown test? ...other than having to remove valve cover to observe. The #1 cylinder is closed at TDC and #6 after rotating crank one revolution but not sure how to get the others.
thanks for any insight, ChuckD
:beer:
My 94 FZJ80 has 250,000 miles on it and some exhaust valves need attention. The #3 cylinder has an exhaust valve with .762mm gap! :doh:
All of the intake valves are within spec but there are 9 exhaust outside of range (.356 to .381mm). I am concerned about driving the vehicle with a valve...