Im glad to hear it looks like aftermarket, gives me some hope that OEM stuff might do a better job.
It does have a front and rear heater that have been rebuilt and work very well, that's not the issue. Going down the road at anything over 45 mph there is a STRONG draft from around the door...
The main area really seems to be right at the latch but there is air leaking all around the door. I realize this thing isnt going to be tight like a 2016 vehicle but if I could get it a little better I could ride without a coat :)
Here are some pictures, hell for all I know these may be OEM.....
I have some pretty badly leaking doors on my 40. The PO must have changed them as they look fairly new and are soft still. However, they have very bad air intrusion in perticular around the door latches and in general. Here in the cold weather part of the country the heater cant keep up at...
Wasn't aware of any warranty on Rancho stuff I'll check into that thank you.
As far as replacing stuff, if I need to maybe I'll just save the money until I can do it all at once and plan on OME.
I cant tell if I have springs added. How would I? Like I said, I have 6 springs on each. Seems...
So i have rad many of the threads on here and still am confused so I wanna get opinions for my setup if people are willing.
The problem.....my 40 suspension has issues. Bad squeaks, uneven stance from the rear, very hard ride. Any bump at all gives me teeth rattles. After rolling bumps in...
I haven't heard of this before and I'm intrigued.....I am getting about 10 mpg now in my edelbrock carbed sbc 350. What kinda cost and claims about mpg have you seen? I'd also figure in time to recoup cost which I am sure you've done. Will the engine run better?
yes they are rancho. And stiff as hell :)
I was told it was stock by another mudder another time I posted the same picture.......thats why I say that. Sounds like the caster was off so there must be some lift. It shure has helped fixing it though.
I intend to go to OME springs front and...
Thanks to all on here. I read a lot of threads about the white knuckle steering issues. I was certainly having it but had checked my TRE's, pitman arm, etc...and all were solid.
I had an alignment done as recommended and the toe in was off and my caster was +0.35 and +0.37.
This was on stock...
Well as I said it took me a couple of times at least. All I was doing is heading out to a poorly traveled paved road and slamming on the brakes. If the rear wheels locked up (watched them out my side window rather than having an observer) I would stop and turn the dial on the prop valve then...
I set the caliper up in the position MAF recommended.
But no, I had no trouble bleeding it in that position at all. I considered taking off one mounting bolt and rotating the caliper up to bleed but it wasn't necessary. I had to bleed all 4 ports on each side instead of just 2 but once I was...
Yeah it's necessary. In fact I thought I had mine adjusted correctly. I had done some trial emergency braking just after install.
Last night however I had to slam on the brakes to avoid hitting a deer. The rears locked up early. This was real life type braking which inevidently I didn't...
Here are my pics. I dont have any yet of the disc with the wheels off. I may take some tomorrow as I want to bleed the brakes on more time as I am not sure I have them tuned exactly as the brake pedal the first few uses after I start the car are alot harder than any othe time. It seems to...
I should have taken some in the process but I didn't think of it at the time. Just trying to get it done.
I'll post some after pics though as soon as I can.
You can bet that the next stuff I do I will take some as I go.