2H Turbo install (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 12, 2008
Threads
11
Messages
368
Location
Pensacola, FL
Website
www.thewagonway.com
Just received an AXT Turbo for my 2H. I'll be installing in my 89 FJ62 converted to diesel. Not sure yet on exhaust size, but will be eliminating the muffler and going straight pipe. Already running an EGT gauge in the exhaust manifold, will transfer that to the new manifold pre turbo and the boost gauge is on the way.

-Eric

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I use a short straight pipe in Tencha 2.5" kinda tight going down in my setup with 3" that would be cool, but not really needed by the 2H
 
Yay! very nice. The same kit I put on 4 years ago. Still running strong.
Advice I would give is to make sure that you don't kink the short hose between the crankcase vent and the air intake. The length of hose that I got in my kit was wrong and it kinked and blew the seals out of my timing gear cover.

You may also want to go stainless steel with your exhaust, I just did mine, since all the exhaust piping that came with the turbo and all the steel that I built my exhaust with was completely toast in 4 years. I'm in salty Canada, so that may have had a lot to do with it, but thought I'd mention it seeing as I just spent the better part of last week rebuilding the exhaust...

I went 2.5" with the exhaust, 3" would be very tight for the down pipe with the AXT Turbo, though perhaps not impossible.
 
Removed the old manifold. Unfortunately one of the studs broke off, but in a good location to remove it. Couldn't resist a test fit to see how it sits. Very pleased with the position.
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No instructions at all? I have the AXT instructions in pdf I can email to you if you want to PM me. I can take pictures but it'll take a lot of pictures and a lot of explanations to show you the same thing...
 
Slowly but surely mocking things up to see how all is going to fit. Having to replace an exhaust stud, which I will do this weekend and everything else should follow suit.
The one things I am thinking about is the oil return. I know the practice is to weld the fitting into either the lifter covers or the oil pan. The low placement of the turbo only leaves me with the oil pan option. Now I am no stranger to welding, that's not the issue.
What i noticed while test fitting things is that the drain tube of the turbo is almost directly inline with the dipstick fitting on the block. My idea is to add a "T" fitting to the dipstick mount, the turbo drain hose would tie into that "T" fitting, and then shorten the dipstick tube to compensate for the new "T" fitting.
Obviously checking the oil would be a bit more time consuming to allow the turbo oil to drain first, but would this work, or is this one of those "it hasn't been done because it never worked before" things?
 
My idea is to add a "T" fitting to the dipstick mount, the turbo drain hose would tie into that "T" fitting, and then shorten the dipstick tube to compensate for the new "T" fitting.

I keep hearing the Turbo oil drain needs to be as free flowing as possible. I have a feeling the dipstick tube with the dipstick in wouldn't flow very fast..
 
Also.. don't forget to replumb your crankcase breather hose to a pre-turbo intake position or vent it to atmosphere..
 
I keep hearing the Turbo oil drain needs to be as free flowing as possible. I have a feeling the dipstick tube with the dipstick in wouldn't flow very fast..

Ok, will go the dedicated route. Thanks!
 
Pulled the oil pan today. After not being able to find a nut to weld on the oil pan for the included hose fitting, I ended up using part of heater lines from the old 3FE engine and welded it to the pan. Turned out better I think, don't have to also worry about threads sealing right too. Oil pan reinstalled, ready to hook everything up tomorrow.
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:bounce::clap::bounce2:
 
Installed the manifold for the final time. Noticed that the ends of the manifold are a bit different visually, which also made it a headache to fit with the existing firewall heat shield. Nothing a little hammer couldn't fix. Would've rather removed the shielding, but the engine prevented me from doing that.
Hooked up all the lines and fittings. Came to the oil drain hose, and like Freewheel let me know, the hose doesn't line up and wants to kink. Ended up cutting the hose in half and inserting an elbow tube to help with the angles. Works pretty well and no hose stress.
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My neighbor suggested I prime the oil pressure line to the turbo before hooking it up. After many cranks of the engine, without starting, oil filled up the line. Once hooked up, started her up! :popcorn:
 
I still have the boost gauge to install, secure the coolant lines, and replumb the crank case breather hose. Also finish the exhaust, right now its just the down pipe off the turbo.
 
I dont understand the oil feed you've fitted.. is there an oil pressure port on exhaust side of the engine you've tapped into?
 
Nice work. I did mention about the oil drain hose possibly getting backed up, but my kinked hose warning was about the hose that connects the crankcase breather elbow to the air intake- It's an easy mistake and one that doesn't seem that important, but with the increased blowby that the turbo will probably give you, it's really important that the crankcase is ventilated properly or you will blow hard to replace seals...

And duncanrm, the turbo oil feed comes from a T on the oil hose that feeds the alternator. At least, that's how AXT suggests you do it.
 

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