How to Fix Rust Bubbles in Paint (1 Viewer)

[Kigiin]

My plan was to grind down to metal, prime and paint with OEM matching color. I was going to mask around the bare circle I create with a wire brush attachment I purchased for my drill. Thought this would minimize painting more than I needed to and reduce the area that won't match the original paint that well.

Am I missing anything or is there a better approach?

My plan was to grind down to metal, prime and paint with OEM matching color. I was going to mask around the bare circle I create with a wire brush attachment I purchased for my drill. Thought this would minimize painting more than I needed to and reduce the area that won't match the original paint that well.

Am I missing anything or is there a better approach?

 

[Fast Eddy]

Where that is located, I'd pull the rubber and fix underneath where it is.

With that small of an area, you could be more precise with a dremel tool and some sanding stones. You can also get stones for the drill, but I'm not sure it will turn fast enough to work well.

 

[rayjay]

I would also use a rust converter

 

[cruiserpilot]

Wire wheel is wrong approach. I agree with the other guys, removing the window might be a good idea, so you
can address any rust under the rubber; you're not going to be able to work around the rubber without damaging it.
Instead of wire wheel, get a sanding disc flapper wheel. Looks like a bunch of pcs of sandpaper glued to a disc.
This will be far better means of removing old material. Keep to small area, but make sure you clean off all the rust,
then use rust converter over the bare metal, even if you can't see any rust.
Do this all at the same time, as soon as the rust converter is cured, put a couple of coats of primer right away, then
paint. You can even buy small spray cans of clear coat to finish.
Good luck

 

[iwashmycar]

x4. whatever you do do...if you dont remove that weather seal it will come back. Probably is rusted underneath there too.

 

[JCruse]

I have one blister coming out from under the windshield trim on the DS A-pillar. The truck ('97) is otherwise rust free and in very good shape so it's going to the body shop tuesday. They're pulling the windshield to both grind away the rust and look for more. Afterwards patches will be welded in place, zinc rich 3 part epoxy primer, and paint. I would suggest trying to follow this general model if at all possible, assuming you want to keep the truck.

 

[canman]

I had me windshield replaced last year and they called me to have a look before proceeding. This is what they found. No rust was visible from the outside. It was a major pain to fix, but I managed. As others have said, if you want to do it right, you need to pull the window.

 

[JCruse]

I just picked up my 80 from the body shop a few minutes ago and it looks good. To save money I had them just blend the paint up to the sides and in front of the sunroof instead of painting the whole roof like they would normally have done. Although it could have used it.
The new trim gasket is a lot wider than the original which I hope will keep out moisture better. But the big thing is that when they pulled the glass there was NO more rust anywhere else! I really thought there would be and am quite surprised. - Wait, I know where it's hiding.... it's in the back window...


To the OP: I've used rust converter with varying results, some good, some bad. But I have repeatedly been astonished with Evapo-Rust. Just like the name says, I don't know where the rust went, it didn't come off onto anything, it was just gone! All that was left was shiny metal. You soak paper towels in the liquid, place them on the rust and cover with plastic to keep them wet. Has to be above 65 degrees, but wow the rust was just gone!

 

[honk]

When you get to the painting mask off the window and it's rubber (if they're still installed) but don't mask the surrounding painted area.

If you do you'll make a line or circle that's visible in the surface and is all hell to get out without sanding/rubbing through the old color coat(s).

Mask the tire, any nearby markings or attachments but leave room to feather out from your defect a little ways so that when is cured the paint isn't built up along a mask line and is much easier to blend with the older.

 

[Colorado Boy-74-FJ40]

The bubbles are just the tip of the iceberg. Usually lots more beneath.