Need AC feedback (1 Viewer)

[muddpigg]

So replaced idle up VSV for AC. Was very please when all worked like it was suppose to until..... I head a faint whistling sound like a bad vacuum leak, then a very nice POP!!! and tons of vapor and oil blowing out of front driverside grill area. So looks like a seal blew going to or from receiver. Grrrr now back to no A/C.

So a little research and I'm looking at swapping out H/L ports to 134a style. Replacing seals through out system minus compressor. Draining oil from compressor. Replacing receiver. evacuating system, vacuum testing it. Replacing oil and recharging with 134a.

I found this tech bulletin http://www.toyotapart.com/1986-1994_86-94_R-12_AIR_CONDITIONER_SYSTEM_RETROFIT_T-AC98-002.pdf

I'm hoping o'rielly, autozone, or advance have the manifold guage set and can evacuate plus vacuum test. Otherwise I'll just buy a set from HF, unless someone in area can help me out.

I've never worked on the AC system. Am I missing anything??

 

[Toast]

Don't go to R134a!!!! R12 is a vastly superior refrigerant that cools better and operates at a lower pressure (less likely to leak) if you have the means of getting R12 (which there is still tons out there) I would stick with it. I've converted vehicles and it's not the best. To correctly convert you must clean your entire system out of all R12 oil or else your system will gum up and stop working.

 

[Toast]

Muddpig, I have all AC equipment, where are you located?

 

[muddpigg]

I'm in San Antonio, Texas. Looks like your in Cali. Thanks if your out this way. Hit me up!!!

 

[Toast]

Dang. Yea I have no problem doing an evac and fill for ya but I don't see myself being in Texas anytime soon.

If I were you this is what I would do;

Make all necessary repairs such as o rings and lines (be sure to get R12 ones) get a new receiver dryer bolt everything up tight and double check everything. Then find a good A/C guy and have him evac and fill your system with R12. If your concerned with leak checking you can always have inexpensive R22 put in your system purely just to check for leaks NOT TO RUN. I do this often. Then you evac the 22 out and replace with 12. Either way I would stick with 12 good sir. Anybody else think differently?

 

[DTCsk8er]

I've got a gauge set and a vacuum pump. Converted mine to R134a a while ago; new seals, dryer, expansion valve, flushed the evap core, added some oil, and good conversion ports. Had a small leak, but not bad enough to leak out more than a can every year. I'm in SW Houston, so at least I am closer.. let me know if you wanna borrow em.

I dont know how the R12 was (wasnt working when i got it) but the R134a is fine as long as you are moving. My biggest complaint is that the fan is not enough to really cool down the cab.

Lastly, there is a sweet spot on the R134a amount.. using pressures can be difficult to determine the amount since it depends on the environment and such.. mine is working great right now.. just wish the cold are was able to get to the back seat better!

 

[73tlcv8]

Agree if you have a system put together and it just needs gas, just put more r12 in it. If you need a new compressor then 134a is about your only option I think. Note 134a is a greenhouse gas and will be phased out of new cars by 2017 (last I read anyway) but the gas will be available for years like R12. I have converted a couple systems form R12 to R134a without issues, they still have plenty of capacity. I used Ester oil that is compatible with any residual mineral oil in the system. You do need to flush out the old oil first though then add back the recommended amount of new oil. You can use a conversion fitting for the 134a can to let you use old style manifold and not change your compressor fittings. I recommend you get help from a refrigerant tech to make sure you get it right and not release any gas to the environment.

 

[muddpigg]

I've got a gauge set and a vacuum pump. Converted mine to R134a a while ago; new seals, dryer, expansion valve, flushed the evap core, added some oil, and good conversion ports. Had a small leak, but not bad enough to leak out more than a can every year. I'm in SW Houston, so at least I am closer.. let me know if you wanna borrow em.

I dont know how the R12 was (wasnt working when i got it) but the R134a is fine as long as you are moving. My biggest complaint is that the fan is not enough to really cool down the cab.

Lastly, there is a sweet spot on the R134a amount.. using pressures can be difficult to determine the amount since it depends on the environment and such.. mine is working great right now.. just wish the cold are was able to get to the back seat better!

Thanks for the offer to help me out. Gonna keep fingers crossed for something closer. The exact weight amount of refrigerant does not seem to be a possibility with gauges.

Agree if you have a system put together and it just needs gas, just put more r12 in it. If you need a new compressor then 134a is about your only option I think. Note 134a is a greenhouse gas and will be phased out of new cars by 2017 (last I read anyway) but the gas will be available for years like R12. I have converted a couple systems form R12 to R134a without issues, they still have plenty of capacity. I used Ester oil that is compatible with any residual mineral oil in the system. You do need to flush out the old oil first though then add back the recommended amount of new oil. You can use a conversion fitting for the 134a can to let you use old style manifold and not change your compressor fittings. I recommend you get help from a refrigerant tech to make sure you get it right and not release any gas to the environment.

Saw some web traffic on phasing out 134a. I don't mind being environmentally friendly just seems that any product with that label raises prices exponentially. Will be interesting to see what the market for conversion to the new refrigerant goes in the future. I don't have a source for R12 so will prolly just do 134a.

 

[Toast]

The proper way to do it is use a scale. The system will have an amount label under the hood (22 oz sounds right but don't quote me). If you completely evac the system you can add 6oz cans at a time and get close. But using a scale will get you that happy medium. Muddpigg, don't be to sure you can't get 12. Start looking around and asking people. Think outside the box; ANY person who does A/C can get 12. Commercial and automotive. Pretty sure you can buy it online too

 

[muddpigg]

The proper way to do it is use a scale. The system will have an amount label under the hood (22 oz sounds right but don't quote me). If you completely evac the system you can add 6oz cans at a time and get close. But using a scale will get you that happy medium. Muddpigg, don't be to sure you can't get 12. Start looking around and asking people. Think outside the box; ANY person who does A/C can get 12. Commercial and automotive. Pretty sure you can buy it online too

I get what your saying. But planning on doing the 134a. Seems easier to source and autozone has needed tools for loaners. If all goes as planned I'll have a/c and rear wheel cylinders swapped this weekend.

 

[FrankTorres]

Autozone will loan the vacuum pump and gauges, they work just fine.

For a 134a conversion on our trucks it takes 23 ounces of 134a and 3.4 ounces of PAG 46 oil.

When I did my truck I removed all the components and flush them with denatured alcohol and compressed air, the compressor just got drained...

I get 38* at the vents ...

 

[73tlcv8]

Another issue to consider from the EPA: Only Section 609 Certified Motor Vehicle A/C technicians can purchase refrigerants in any size container for use in cooling the passenger compartment of vehicles, including containers of 20 pounds or less.
The good thing is that it is not hard to get the 609 certification, it only requires you to know the basics, stuff you should know before you start working on your system anyway. And it is required by law to install the 134a adapter fittings if you convert over an R12 system.

 

[DTCsk8er]

Autozone will loan the vacuum pump and gauges, they work just fine.

For a 134a conversion on our trucks it takes 23 ounces of 134a and 3.4 ounces of PAG 46 oil.

When I did my truck I removed all the components and flush them with denatured alcohol and compressed air, the compressor just got drained...

I get 38* at the vents ...

Thats some good info right there. I used two 12 oz cans, and it worked great. I get about 40deg at the center vents. I just wish the blower could handle the big cab of a 4runner.

Also, I actually removed the compressor to drain the oil and replace the two seals with R134a green ones.

And x2 on the law says you need to change to R134a ports if you convert. Just in case someone ever buys that rig from you, and mixes the refrigerants.

 

[muddpigg]

I'd like to say every thing went ultra smooth but I don't like to lie. But for first AC job not to shabby. But think it is the best I'm gonna get right now. 55* at vent at idle and e-fan on, so should drop at speed. Been drinking beer so no test drive tonight. Will find out tomorrow.

 

[DTCsk8er]

Did she hold vacuum for 30min before adding the r134a?

 

[muddpigg]

Yeah, and evacuated for 45min prior to that.

 

[muddpigg]

40* at speed. I'm happy

 

[DTCsk8er]

Nice!! Mine was right at 40 to 41deg at speed too

 

[muddpigg]

So coming home this afternoon in traffic I learned the flex-a-lite e-fan does not move enough air to keep motor cool with AC on. No worries time to finish the two speed Mercury Sable fan install. Ain't that the way it goes with modifications.

 

[DTCsk8er]

Get rid of that flexalite s***.. I had a blade falloff and almost kill my radiator. what a waste of money that thing was.

Stock fan works well, and keeps my s*** plenty cool man.