A/C w/o smog pump on 22R? (1 Viewer)

[WoodsTruck]

Hooking the A/C components back up but the smog pump is not in the best shape.
Any alternatives to putting an idler wheel in there to adjust the tension on the belt without using the smog pump as an idler?

 

[gnob]

Hooking the A/C components back up but the smog pump is not in the best shape.
Any alternatives to putting an idler wheel in there to adjust the tension on the belt without using the smog pump as an idler?

just using a regular 22r ac bracket

 

[WristPin]

Can’t the pump and belt be eliminated completely?

 

[WoodsTruck]

Being a California emission vehicle (currently in Oregon), the smog pump has the belt tensioning feature built in and the A/C compressor bolts solid to the side of the engine. On non emission motors, the A/C compressor has a different bracket that has a tensioner pulley mounted to it. I'm finding very few of these adjuster brackets that aren't close to $300.
My current options are:
- drop coin on a non A/C bracket (not the owners preference)
- build an eliminator kit like the FJ series use, but to buy one is close to $200 and it likely needs modified
- build an eliminator kit which takes more time than I want to commit
- use the smog pump.
This last option is where I am at currently. I disassembled the pump the other night as chunks of carbon fins were pouring out the bottom air port so I figured I wasn't hurting anything. I think it will clean up ok and have sourced a possible front bearing (right behind the pulley) if needed, but the rear bearing apparently is not available. The rear bearing doesn't seem to be in bad shape, but with more cleaning of the assembly and some high temp grease it may work for the purpose.
So, if this works, NAPA has the front bearing for $8 and some elbow grease to clean it up (price unknown). I think I have to make a pulley mount removal tool, but that is part of the fun I guess.

 

[WristPin]

Being a California emission vehicle (currently in Oregon), the smog pump has the belt tensioning feature built in and the A/C compressor bolts solid to the side of the engine. On non emission motors, the A/C compressor has a different bracket that has a tensioner pulley mounted to it. I'm finding very few of these adjuster brackets that aren't close to $300.
My current options are:
- drop coin on a non A/C bracket (not the owners preference)
- build an eliminator kit like the FJ series use, but to buy one is close to $200 and it likely needs modified
- build an eliminator kit which takes more time than I want to commit
- use the smog pump.
This last option is where I am at currently. I disassembled the pump the other night as chunks of carbon fins were pouring out the bottom air port so I figured I wasn't hurting anything. I think it will clean up ok and have sourced a possible front bearing (right behind the pulley) if needed, but the rear bearing apparently is not available. The rear bearing doesn't seem to be in bad shape, but with more cleaning of the assembly and some high temp grease it may work for the purpose.
So, if this works, NAPA has the front bearing for $8 and some elbow grease to clean it up (price unknown). I think I have to make a pulley mount removal tool, but that is part of the fun I guess.

Good info. Napa can’t locate the rear bearing by size? It would be cool if you got it cleaned up and working. If the AC works- WOW! Definitely worth saving operation.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I made an impromptu tool hoping to remove the pulley flange. Since the face had 3 machined holes I assumed the flange was threaded on. So far it hasn't budged. I need to do some digging to see if it is simply pressed on the end of the shaft.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Pulled the flange off and pushed the cylinder out, then popped the bearing cover and regreased. Reassembled and still not happy with how it feels. Not sure it is a 100,000 mile fix. I think I'll be building an idler assembly...