Internal Regulator Alternator Wiring to a 73 External wire (1 Viewer)

[DeanP]

Anyone tell me where or how the smaller wires go to this Internal reg alt.they used to go to a external reg.
Dont know what to test to see what goes where?

 

[vangasman]

One is the field and one is a ground. They both run up to the stock location on the firewall for the regulator as well as a wire for power when the key is switched on. Don't know if you need either for a internal regulator.

 

[DeanP]

Plug

There is a plug in area on the back of the alternator, so I am not sure which wire goes to the upper slot and lower slot or if it matters?

 

[bj40green]

Next to the connector on the alt are letters stamped on the housing.
L = Lamp. This is the "no charge" indicator light on the dash.
IG or IGN = 12V from ignition switch.
So the wire that is 12V when you switch on the key goes to the IGN terminal.
The other one goes to the L terminal IF you have that indicator on your dash.

Rudi

 

[DeanP]

Thanks

Thanks Rudi , I appreciate that

 

[DeanP]

Still having problems getting alternator to charge.
Someone suggested I need a external diode?
Any Ideas

 

[bj40green]

Can you upload a pic that clearly shows the terminals and the letter stamping on the back of the alternator?
What are the wire colors that you have in your hand in the pic in the 1st posting?

Sometimes you need a diode for the "no charge" light to work but that has nothing to do with charging the battery.

What is exactly the problem? Still having problems getting alternator to charge. is a bit vague (for me).

Rudi

 

[Coolerman]

First you need to order the proper connector for that alternator. I sell it. It is part #2P7987. Click on the link in my sig and go to the Misc. Wiring page.

Now cut the three terminal plug off that has the Green/White and the Black/White wires on it. You will attach one of the included terminals from the connector I sell to the White/Green wire and insert it into the bottom connector slot (IG) so that when plugged into the alternator it is on the IG terminal. Note that a 1/4" spade lug will also work just fine if you don't want to order the proper connector.
Next you will crimp on the supplied ring terminal to the White/Black wire and put that under any screw on the alternator EXCEPT the one labeled B+! This is a ground wire.

Now connect the large White/Blue wire to the Alternator B+ terminal. That is your charge wire.
Next go to the regulator on the firewall. There you will find the Green/White wire and the White/Black wire along with a White/Red wire. The white/Green wire will be connected to the F terminal on the regulator. Move it to the IG terminal or in other words ,connect the Green/White wire to the White/Red wire. That will put +12V on the Green/White wire to excite your alternator to charge. Leave the White/Black wire where it is.

If your regulator has a plug instead of screw terminals then just cut and splice the Green/White wire to the White/Red/ wire.

 

[Nothinghead]

First you need to order the proper connector for that alternator. I sell it. It is part #2P7987. Click on the link in my sig and go to the Misc. Wiring page.

Now cut the three terminal plug off that has the Green/White and the Black/White wires on it. You will attach one of the included terminals from the connector I sell to the White/Green wire and insert it into the bottom connector slot (IG) so that when plugged into the alternator it is on the IG terminal. Note that a 1/4" spade lug will also work just fine if you don't want to order the proper connector.
Next you will crimp on the supplied ring terminal to the White/Black wire and put that under any screw on the alternator EXCEPT the one labeled B+! This is a ground wire.

Now connect the large White/Blue wire to the Alternator B+ terminal. That is your charge wire.
Next go to the regulator on the firewall. There you will find the Green/White wire and the White/Black wire along with a White/Red wire. The white/Green wire will be connected to the F terminal on the regulator. Move it to the IG terminal or in other words ,connect the Green/White wire to the White/Red wire. That will put +12V on the Green/White wire to excite your alternator to charge. Leave the White/Black wire where it is.

If your regulator has a plug instead of screw terminals then just cut and splice the Green/White wire to the White/Red/ wire.

@Coolerman,

I have a question for you. I want to put a 60-amp internally regulated alternator from an '85 2F in my '65. I understand I should run a heavier charge wire and I don't want to fry the ammeter. Can I just run it straight from the alt to the (+) on the battery? I still need power to the rest of the dash. Do I disconnect the wire from the alt to the ammeter but still keep the same charging wire from the starter to the fuse panel? I know I'll lose my ammeter and so I'll put in a voltmeter in the meantime so I have SOME idea of the charging system.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Coolerman]

Follow the instructions above. If you are careful to limit the "extra, ie non -OEM loads", on the system, your Amp Meter will be fine.
If on the other hand you are going to run a winch or some other really heavy draw load, and that is the reason you are upgrading the alternator, then you need to bypass the Amp Meter to prevent burnout. Just take one terminal loose from the back of the Amp Meter and connect it to the other on the same stud. No need to run another charge wire. Your truck is already using an 8ga wire. That will handle any normal loads you will experience. Just don't try to charge a completely dead battery with your alternator or you will overheat the main charge wire. I HIGHLY recommend that you install a fusible link on your truck. I sell the kit to easily retro fit to your old truck. This will prevent damaging your harness should you, or someone you loan the truck to, do something to over load the system.

 

[Nothinghead]

G

Follow the instructions above. If you are careful to limit the "extra, ie non -OEM loads", on the system, your Amp Meter will be fine.
If on the other hand you are going to run a winch or some other really heavy draw load, and that is the reason you are upgrading the alternator, then you need to bypass the Amp Meter to prevent burnout. Just take one terminal loose from the back of the Amp Meter and connect it to the other on the same stud. No need to run another charge wire. Your truck is already using an 8ga wire. That will handle any normal loads you will experience. Just don't try to charge a completely dead battery with your alternator or you will overheat the main charge wire. I HIGHLY recommend that you install a fusible link on your truck. I sell the kit to easily retro fit to your old truck. This will prevent damaging your harness should you, or someone you loan the truck to, do something to over load the system.

Thanks for the tips. I do have a winch so I will bypass the ammeter. I was going to run 6 gauge marine wire as a charging wire but if the stock stuff is okay, I'll use that. I wondered about doing just what you said to wire around the ammeter so I'm glad I wondered right. Which kind of fusible link should I use, this or this and where should I put it?

 

[Coolerman]

Thanks for the tips. I do have a winch so I will bypass the ammeter. I was going to run 6 gauge marine wire as a charging wire but if the stock stuff is okay, I'll use that. I wondered about doing just what you said to wire around the ammeter so I'm glad I wondered right. Which kind of fusible link should I use, this or this and where should I put it?

Neither of those is correct for your application. You need 16 ga (1.0mm) fusible link wire. You want your link to be 3.5 " long and connected to the end of the large white wire where it attaches to the starter B+ post (same place battery cable connects). This arrangement will protect the main charge wire from a dead short. I sell a kit just for these older trucks (FLKIT58-71) or using 1.0mm fusible link you can easily make your own.

 

[Nothinghead]

Neither of those is correct for your application. You need 16 ga (1.0mm) fusible link wire. You want your link to be 3.5 " long and connected to the end of the large white wire where it attaches to the starter B+ post (same place battery cable connects). This arrangement will protect the main charge wire from a dead short. I sell a kit just for these older trucks (FLKIT58-71) or using 1.0mm fusible link you can easily make your own.

Perfect. Thanks. I'll be in touch.

 

[Nothinghead]

Neither of those is correct for your application. You need 16 ga (1.0mm) fusible link wire. You want your link to be 3.5 " long and connected to the end of the large white wire where it attaches to the starter B+ post (same place battery cable connects). This arrangement will protect the main charge wire from a dead short. I sell a kit just for these older trucks (FLKIT58-71) or using 1.0mm fusible link you can easily make your own.

Should I use a larger FL since my alternator might put out more current?

 

[Coolerman]

No, keep it 1.0mm (16ga). The fusible link is to protect the charge wire from a dead short and has nothing to do with the alternator amp rating. Now if you were running a 120 amp alternator then yes you would upgrade the charge wire to 6ga or 4ga and run a 14 ga or 12 ga fusible link.

 

[Nothinghead]

I got my later model, internally regulated alternator installed and it went perfectly by following your directions, coolerman. I get 14.40 v at around 1200 RPM. Perfect!

I have one problem, though. When I turn off the ignition, it still runs. I can only get it to shut off when I unplug the IG wire from the alternator. Checking the voltage there, I get 0.56v off that terminal. Nothing coming from the wire...just voltage straight out of the alternator IG terminal. I verified that I am getting 0.00v on the red/white wire when the key is "off" and 12.8v when "on." Is my remanufactured alternator from Napa defective?

 

[bj40green]

Sounds to me that the alternator has one defective (rectifier) diode.

Rudi

 

[Nothinghead]

Sounds to me that the alternator has one defective (rectifier) diode.

Rudi

Son of a biscuit!

 

[Nothinghead]

Napa is shipping in a new one.

 

[Nothinghead]

And after putting in another alternator, it still runs 5-30 seconds after turning the key to off. It will stop immediately when I unplug the ign (+) spade but when I put the meter on it, I get nuthin. I'm so confused.