cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation (7 Viewers)

[cult45]

Thanks sneaky. It does look pretty square, but you've given me an idea: think I'll measure the distance the bib is from the frame horns on both sides and compare. That will get to the bottom of it.

 

[cult45]

Spent the entire afternoon in the blazing sun today. Big day. Productive day.

Pulled the old garden hose fuel line and replaced with fuel-rated hose. Added and inline filter. Wanted to add two but will do so at a later date.

Got the thermostat housing and thermostat installed.

Installed two carb studs using a length of threaded rod. This was actually a PITA. A proper PITA. I still can't get one to stay in, so for the moment I'm just gonna run three.

Installed mech oil pressure gauge off the existing tee. Did so by pulling the electrical sender [large type] and screwing in the capillary in it's place. Plugged the stock wire into the remaining sender.

Deleted the heater hard line joint with this threaded bung.

 

[cult45]

This gauge was all they had. Unfortunately none of the auto parts stored here carry rusty, half-working gauges. Sigh..

Who the hell uses this sh!t for fuel hose??

Also junked this frozen aux tank switch. Gooooooooone.

Got handbrake reconnected.
And some other stuff that escapes me.
Oh, got the tank back in.
Swapped dizzies back to the original F one - only cause I know it ran.
Anod some other stuff..

 

[cult45]

Now, this is where I need some help. When I pulled the donk I unplugged the coil-dizzy-earthing-carb overrun-starter wiring web and have no pics. Also, coolerman's website is down. Anyone know how to make it all work?

This is from the main loom. I think it goes on one of the starter terminals?

I think this is extraneous? It goes straight to the starter.

I think this goes to one of the starter bolts?

The coil negative goes to where? And the positive?

The carb overrun wire goes to..?

 

[cult45]

Turns out google works in metropolitan areas. Who'da knew..

Got everything wired up, didn't time the motor [cause it allegedly ran], just pulled the coil lead and cranked. And cranked. And cranked some more. Kept my eye on the gauge the whole time - no movement. Went to the capillary - no oil in that clean line. Pulled the tee - whistle clean inside. Swapped the electrical sender and the capillary over and cranked again. Still no needlework.

 

[Indestructible 47]

Jolly nice work cult, at your rate it'll be done in no time

 

[cult45]

It's actually good to go, sans filling the rad and chucking the flywheel dust over back on [although now I'm thinking there's a possibility I put the clutch plate on backwards...]. But other than that as soon as I get an oil pressure reading I'm driving this mthrfkr.

 

[catskinner]

Cult ol mate im thinking you have no oil pressure because your dizzy isnt seated into the oil pump drive fully, very fatal mistake for a engine
Also when you change the dizzy you have to time the engine again to get it to fire also check your not 180 deg out and fireing order is correct

 

[cult45]

But cat the engine runs!

 

[catskinner]

Ah sorry mate reread your post diddnt see the part last night " pulled the coil lead " haha

Worth checking that the dizzy is fully seated into the oil pump drive before more cranking

 

[cult45]

It lives! The damn dizzy wasn't seated properly as our old mate catskinner pointed out

This was two seconds after startup!

It p!ssed oil out over the back of the gearbox, so using west aussie's gasket kit I installed a fresh rocker cover gasket. Mmmmmm, gaskets..

Other than having to work tomorrow morning I see a seat reinstallation and a potential drive, pending oil pressure and t-stat housing watertightness.

 

[chappohj47]

Good onya mate

 

[landcrusher909]

Holy crap look what I found. I have been following this thread for awhile just never put two and two together. Run that rig LOL

 

[cult45]

Mr. Tygart is in the building! Thanks again for your help mate.

Thanks chappo!

 

[whitey45]

Time for a stubby mate! Nice work! Rob, where you been hiding!

 

[cult45]

Thanks whitey! It's only 8am, but **** it I think I will haha.

First thing this morning I filled the cooling system and ran it. Kept and eye on gauges and other vitals the whole time. T-stat no leaky! Bung in heater pipe delete no leaky! Rocker cover gasket from west no leaky! Exhaust/intake manifold gasket also from west - NO LEAKY!



Oil pressure at OT, idling.

Stock gauges at OT, idling.

T-stat at OT, idling.

A fair amount of smoke peeled off the exhaust manifold, but I'm running with the idea that it's from the leaking rocker cover. I'm also missing the seal between the air cleaner and the top of the carb. What's everyone doing about that? And if my clutch plate is on the correct way, after much, much up-and-down-the-cul-de-sac testing I may be driving this rig today. It's been seven months since I drug it's ass back home and began bringing it back to life, two months since the engine seized and it's been a decade since I owned the 47, so a 45 series drive is looooooooong overdue. Like, long. Like, really long

 

[sneaky]

oh you need that piece of glass, I'll dig it out for you

 

[cult45]

@sneaky - no need old mate! I love it! What I do need is some advice about my clutch.

Obstacle #675. Clutch plate orientation.

After this morning's successes I cranked her over and grabbed first. Actually, I tried to grab first. Sounded like a someone feeding fixed-top Landcruisers into a tree-mulcher powered by a WWII Spitfire. Shut her down, and discovered a small leak where the clutch hard line meets the flex line. Tightened it up. Bled it solo using a length of rod on the pedal. Bled it again. Bled it again. Hit the key and grabbed first. Actually, I tried to grab first. Wait, this is sounding cyclical..

Climbed under and manhandled the fork through it's range.

Clutch off [up/at rest]

Clutch on [down/depressed/in action]

This pic shows the clutch at rest. Note the space between the throwout bearing and the three arms of the pressure plate? Also note the space between the non-splined [smooth] part of the input shaft and the clutch plate?

Now, I'm actually pretty sure I know the answer to this one: the clutch plate is on backwards and you can tell because the snout of the plate isn't butting up against the smooth part of the input shaft. That sound about right?

 

[whitey45]

Shes backwards mate just pull the tranny, transfer and flip her over! Couple hours and alot of neck oil !!!

 

[donniefj55]

Was missing that seal between carby and air cleaner as well used an o ring