Help with my overheating rig. (1 Viewer)

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Yesterday, I ran the beast up to temp with the Cascade solution still in the engine. As soon as it cooled, I drained it and flooded the engine and rad with fresh water. I had the block drain out and stuck a hose in the radiator inlet and allowed it to run for about 20 minutes while I grabbed a bite to eat. I then added a container of radiator flush and drove that around for a while. I drained that and let it flush for another 15 to 20 minutes. I then installed the OEM thermostat. I refilled the system with plain water and took it for a spin. Crap, that didn't do it. The temp leveled off at mid gauge for a minute until I started up an incline where the temp once again climbed to and beyond the H. Turning on the heater blower once again made an instantaneous difference, again, as if it were literally hooked to the gauge. I couldn't figure out how it could do that, that fast. Still can't. It was getting late and I parked it back in the garage and came back upstairs for the night. This morning, I pulled the old rad and shroud and the old water pump out. I took a picture of the inlet hole in the engine behind the water pump. It looks like new metal in there. It ought to. I installed the new water pump and replaced the old radiator with the new one. I also installed a Scott Drake Gano filter in the upper radiator hose. I took the opportunity to replace the fan belt with a new one too. I refreshed the system with fresh water and headed for the shower. We drove the rig to my parents house for a family Thanksgiving. The gauge dove to the right side pretty quickly as I had allowed it to warm up before we left. The heater worked normally, keeping us toasty even while driving what would equate to a Coleman tent in the low 30's. I pooped, no, popped the hood when I got there and put my hand down behind the fan, not having turned the engine off. If the actual temperature had been as high as what the gauge indicated, I believe the air behind that fan would have been hotter than it was, barely warm. There was no abnormal sound, the upper radiator hose was hot but not overly so. The engine sounded as good as I've heard it. I replaced the vacuum hose from the carb to the distributor too, before we left this morning. After gorging and visiting for awhile, we left. The engine fired up immediately and purred. We came home in outside temps in the mid 20's. The heater is more than adequate. Of course, my low speed fan works not, just the high speed and it never occurred to me to push the heater valve control in to limit the flow of hot water to the heater. I'm so used to trying to control the engine temp with the heater, I forgot it had other positions other than full on. I'll have to try that tomorrow. I think my idea of controlling the engine temp was well meant but looking back, if the engine was indeed as hot as the gauge indicated it was, there is no way you could cool it that much, that quick, simply by turning on the blower fan. A block of steel that big, that hot couldn't be cooled that quickly with a fire truck. So I've come to the conclusion, it has got to be that stupid gauge. Even the voices agree. ("I told ya, goofy")
(I hate it when they're right). The radiator really needed to be changed, I needed practice changing the thermostat and now I have an extra water pump. I too have a very clean engine interior. So, all in all, it hasn't been a goose chase. Giving Him thanks in everything brings good things, every time. So now I need gauge help. Here's some pictures:
FJ water jacket 002.JPG
FJ water jacket 005.JPG
 
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So, all in all, it hasn't been a goose chase. Giving Him thanks in everything brings good things, every time. So now I need gauge help. Here's some pictures:
View attachment 998617 View attachment 998618

So, after all this work you know you have a good cooling system. But, the most important thing you've said here is in this sentence. "Giving Him thanks in everything brings good things, every time."

Don
 
A bad radiator cap will allow your cooling system to boil at a lower temperature. Switching the valve would introduce cooler water and make an immediate difference.
 
I really need help. I have a FJ45 that continually runs hot. She's an ex-Chilean army troopy that I acquired over a month ago. I've tuned her up and got her to a point where she's fairly dependable, new wheels and tires, turn signals, mirrors, etc. A problem I've had since I got her is overheating. One of the first things I did was replace the heater valve and replace a missing thermostat. I actually controlled the engine temp by opening the heater valve and turning on the blower fan. The effect was immediate, I mean almost instantaneously. I did this until I could get a new radiator which I did last week. When I replaced the heater valve, I replaced all the heater hoses. I got a new original Toyota radiator from my dealer and replaced all the radiator hoses when I installed the new radiator. All of them. I just knew this would take care of my problem. It didn't affect the overheating one bit. I still control the temp by opening the heater valve and tuning on the fan. All the hoses get warm, hot, when she's running so I figure I've got water running through them. If my water pump was bad, it wouldn't be getting the flow to the heater inside like it is. would it? I've made sure the radiator is completely full on about every stop. It is. What am I missing? What can I check. Thanks in advance. rog

Not to sound like an idiot or that I know what I am talking about, but I... My FJ40 temp gauge went straight to hot after about 20 to 30 minutes. Replaced the thermostat and radiator like you did, but it continued. Shot with a temp gun and the engine temp was in range. Probably a wiring issue to the instrument cluster...sometimes mine works fine though.
You might considering asking your neighborhood mechanic to temp check it with his gun to see if agrees with your temp gauge.
Just a thought.
 
fan belt tight ?that type of fan can be put on backwards but your looks ok from the photos ,spacer right ? fan should be half in half out of the shroud any obstructions in front of the radiator .check the timing lately ?.sounds like your not moving enough air through the rad
 
After replacing everything that water touches except the block itself, and the heater core, I replaced the instrument panel and I found I had no overheating problem to begin with. After she gets up to temp, it stabilizes right at 185-190 and stays there. Since I'm planning to keep the ol' girl, I don't regret replacing all the components. Just wanted to let everyone know what the outcome was and to thank everyone that pitched their ideas at me.
Moose mouth 065.JPG
 
I love a happy ending.:clap:
 
a loose fan belt will cause this problem also
 
After replacing everything that water touches except the block itself, and the heater core, I replaced the instrument panel and I found I had no overheating problem to begin with. After she gets up to temp, it stabilizes right at 185-190 and stays there. Since I'm planning to keep the ol' girl, I don't regret replacing all the components. Just wanted to let everyone know what the outcome was and to thank everyone that pitched their ideas at me. View attachment 1094724


Where did you get ur gauge cluster from? I have the same problem. We shot the radiator with a heat gun which gave us the same outcome.

Glad it all worked out for you. Please send the info on the gauge cluster.
 
I got the gauge cluster panel from trailcandy.com. It took several months to get the panel after I had ordered it but he did keep in touch and let me know the status until it was shipped. The finish on the panel is very good as you can see in the picture. I had no problems at all with fit. I ordered all the instruments through Amazon.com. They had the best prices and since I am a "Prime" member, I got free two day shipping. Tracing the electrical routes on the back of the original panel will show you which wires in the plug go to the new instruments. It really was easy. I probably spent less than two hours and everything worked, including turn signals and high beam LED's. You can order the LED's from trailcandy as well. I didn't. I ordered mine from ... I forgot. But they were loose in the holes so to snug them up, I gobbed clear silicone around them from the back and that has held them in and cushioned them too. The speedometer is GPS powered so there is no need for a speedometer cable. It also records things like, highest speed, trip length, trip time, time, lat & long., as well as total mileage and some other things I haven't explored yet. No more bouncing speedometer needle. I'm completely happy with the way it all turned out. If you need part numbers for the instruments, I can do that too. The oil pressure gauge comes with the pressure sender that fits right under the oil filter. The water temp gauge comes with the new sender unit that is just in front of the heater return fitting on top of the engine. Hope this helps.
 
If you believe all your instruments---Your head gasket is compromised.
 

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