Builds 1994 1hz 80 series ZOMBIE (1 Viewer)

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Moe, I am sure you were just joking about Gatorade coolant, but you do know that glycol is deadly poisonous, and that's why you should never store coolant in old soft drink bottles, just in case kids drink it. If your poisoned by it you have to drink massive amounts of alcohol to counteract it.. like a whole bottle of vodka
 
thanks @SeaJay .... i was joking...but in reality, plenty of people who do get stuck in the desert do that in last efforts to stay alive, not knowing this will only speed up their demise.

whenever i go on a trip, i take water enough for two full cars (i.e 10 adults) to last for at least 3 days...and then i usually hide a few small bottles in the battery trays...this is because u never know how stupid and crazy people get when they are stranded.....once in 2006 on a trip to a very isolated area, one of my friends actually took water and showered.....said it made him feel better....of course we made him choose, either leave or take his car and go fill up water....very few people understand the concept of rationing food and water on hunting trips...u never know what could go wrong.
 
HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEELp

charged my battery....primed in fuel...started her up...and....i could clearly here a piston was breathing out somewhere..afraid it could be a leak...shut her down...could see remains of vapour between number 1 and number 2 cylinders on the pump side.!!!!!!!!!

should i do a retighten 90deg (maybe even 180deg)...or do i need to get the head out once again?????
 
this is why i dont and will NEVER trust the labour at the industrial district in Khartoum again.....

i felt really bad that my engine had a leak after all the tremendous (i think) work i put into it this past week.....turns out....as dumb as i can be....the a.hole sold me a number 3 gasket packet in a number 5 bag...Toyota and all.
guess i was just so excited to finally get to do a HG job i didnt even look at the notches on the HG because it was a sealed with the Toyota sticker..

im an idiot....i just need to remember that whenever i go to the industrial area again.

unfortunately my phone died today...so i have no way to upload the images.

a dumb question.....as i cannot currently dish out any more cash for a HG...will i be able to reuse the old one???? not deformed in any way (besides the torque down)....no leaks on it...nothing
 
OEM headgasket, and the head bolts can be reused with no issues IMO. In over 30 80 series Headgasket jobs over the years, weve never replaced head bolts or seen any that needed it.

copied from a 'lifer' in the thread "Head gasket time" ...... any advice guys?
 
Typically head gaskets cannot be reused. Once they have been torqued they deform (form to the place it was) and will never be quite right again.
Did you torque the head bolts in a circular pattern starting in the center? Otherwise follow the FSM. What is the difference between a #3 and #5 set? The head bolts on the petrol engines are the stretch kind and should NOT be reused. Not sure on the diesels. Could be very different or can reuse up to three times????? Just guessing.
When torquing on a head do it in at least 3 stages. Snug (15 lb-ft) then halfway, then full torque. Again, each time in the same order in a circle from the center, out. More divisions is good if it works better for you. 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%.....
 
the head gasket has 3 thickness to it...number 1 being the slimiest...number 5 the thickest...i wanted number 5 because that was what was already on it when i removed the head.

the torquing method i followed what was in the FSM...same sequence...5 passes....20n.m...then 50n.m...then 69Nm....and then the 90deg...and another 90 deg.....to the letter....each time following the same tie down sequence.

once i did put everything back on and cranked her up...heard the leak..immediately shut her down...then i was taking a closer look....found the tip of the head gasket (where the notches are) and it only had 3...instead of the number 5 i paid for and was the packaging i received.
 
all its going to cost you is time to try with the old one Moe, research spraying the old one with silver paint before reusing it, I heard about 35 yrs ago that will seal them, but it also makes them hard to remove next time, I have not tried it myself.
 
well...i measured (using my new micrometer) the thickness of the old gasket (size 5) and the lowest point measured 1.31mm..maximum cylinder protrusion 0.66mm...so i guess im safe to use the old gasket.

measured all the bolts....no stretch ...nothing below the 10.6mm (set my vernier to 10.6 and past the whole set from top to bottom, one by one).

fingers crossed.....praying to God that it works this time..

btw....when i did start it....ran smooth like chocolate...loving the edutainment im receiving from doing this....

this time round, the whole dismantle took less than 3 hours...whereas the first time...almost 2 days (including shaky hand syndrome)
 
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my question would be...as the new gasket is thicker than the original gasket by Mr. T.....do i torque to the same specs (69Nm) ...More??? Less??

im guessing i should torque to 75nm and then the 90deg +90deg
 
the a.holes who welded the bolts to the head...well.... @BILT4ME ...u were right (as usual)...when tying down the injector bolts...3 of the newly welded 6 just snapped...3 held on well....
2 of them, i managed to just run in new bolts...one was severely cracked...so....in my mind...i needed this to be finished with...so either i fix it...or i find a way to purchase a new head....

went got my drill....a new German drill bit....and a tap set.....was literally sweating during the whole process.

IT worked like a charm...to such an extent...im thinking of re-doing all the others so i can have peace of mind and a unified size for all the injector bolts.
unfortunately...due to the stress level i was in (being afraid i would screw the engine up)....i didnt take photos of this step... :(

cleaned the engine bay with the degreaser.....flushed it with plenty of soapy water and then water...then applied wd40 to all electricals

removed the air filter ....sanded it down to bare metal.....spray painted it.....installed new gasket (using window seal tape, the spongy thing)
installed new hoses where required....cleaned the old ones...new crimps on all

adjusted the fuel pressure bolt on the back of my pump...no more white smoke...but plenty of black during hi revs (i kind of like it)...but will have to re-adjust it back out a bit at a time to find the correct setting.

bled the steering gear...new fluid in...bled again to flush out any remaining old fluid....

frankly....drives like a charm now....accelerates beautifully...and the best thing..besides being quieter.....i dont have to build muscles to be able to turn my wheel :D
 
thank you guys for all the support....i really really love this forum....seriously, i dont know what i could have been able to achieve on this car without you guys...plenty of help...very informative....most of all...fun
 
Congrats on getting it back together........AGAIN!

Sorry to hear that the studs snapped off. Usually with welding carbon steel (bolts) to cast iron (head) it all needs to be preheated and the rod needs to be a high nickel rod (standard 7018 or 6013 won't do it. Not sure what they used there.

Hopefully, you were able to drill a new hole for each and use that to create new threads for new bolts. Otherwise, I was thinking if you have (2) holes that are still good, can you build an "injector retaining rail" that will use the two good bolt holes and have an angle iron or something that spans the length of the head and will hold the injectors in the holes with the support of all of them. Just an idea. Otherwise, the replacement head is the ticket, but don't know the availability of head.

I think you are better with the thinner gasket, as that will raise your compression slightly (better for the diesel) than it was originally, but I don't recall that you had the head milled or block decked. (I don't think you did.) I am happy that you were able to make it work!

On the pump settings, white smoke can also indicate lean condition, black is a rich condition. Back it down until you see SMALL amounts of black smoke. Black smoke under heavy load is OK, but your mileage will drop off comparatively. Better to run a diesel rich (black) than lean (white). Running lean will create hot spots in the cylinder and score a sleeve in the block.

And yes, your torque specs will remain the same for each gasket.

Glad to hear it's running OK!
 
thank you @BILT4ME i did actually think of the idea of a single retaining rail, problem is, i seriously cannot trust the materials in the market any more. Having the holes drilled and threaded really did the job well, wont do the others just yet and frankly miss driving my zombie...but with the job done, i did learn plenty.

i plan on adjusting the pump every morning, as i think it wont be apparent unless i drive (in comparison to just revving her in the garage) marking the previous day's settings on the bolt with a marker.....any ideas how much i should turn the bolt....1/4 turn...1/2...less?
 
No idea on how many turns. It's usually not much. No more than 2 full turns. It's been over 30 years since I've been on the farm turning up the pump on the tractors to get more juice out of them. I do know that if they are turned up too much, they work GREAT.......for a little while, then they don't work at all...... (broken crank on that particular brand / model.)
 
so...FSM says...turning the full load screw 1/2 a turn clockwise will increase the volume by approx 3cc....will probably go with 1/8 turn counter clockwise....thinking of taking her on a quick 100km run tomorrow to get her 'pumped up'.
 
oh yeah...i have some bling bling now :D
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One of my very favorite topics here on Mud, guess you're busy with the new baby, @MoeGasim. But the air filter does look nice. I can't believe you still have a hood liner and we somehow don't. Any updates?
 

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