WTB new or NOS 2f Igniter and coil or DUI dizzy (1 Viewer)

[freepowder]

Ok. I searched both here on the 'net. Found a guy that took $400 for a coil and igniter then refunded it when not only are they not in stock but haven't been for a while and aren't going to be ever again. Why is it listed for sale on your website? Other than that nothing. I want new as I'm the proud owner of four non-op used stockers.

Anyone know where I can get one? I'm very close to buying a DUI. Everyone says the stock system is better but if I can't friggin' get parts for it and it won't start the friggin' truck how much better is it really?

Since MAF seems to be MIA again, where's the best place to get a DUI?

Oh, before you ask:
No, don't think it's carb--checked, fuel bowl at mark, gas smell after you crank it for a while. Choke is closing all the way.
I've tried three used igniters, four coils.
I have a spark, but it's fat and yellow.
It will start if you shoot a couple seconds of ether into the air filter housing, runs fine then and will start after having run. Won't start w/o ether after it sits several hours and gets cold.
Tried the GM igniter fix with three igniters and 4 coils. Followed instructions on here scrupulously. No joy.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I'd run a troolhole diz and a/m coil before a DUI...it is also possible to modify the stock ignitor to take a sbc ignition module. Have you tried toyota for a new ignitor?

 

[Output Shaft]

I've tried three used igniters, four coils. No joy.

The laws of statistical probability are pointing to the likelihood that the problem lies elsewhere.

Most of the lazier websites show NLA parts being available. Why? We can only conjecture...
When it comes to the 60's... LOTS of stuff is NLA,

 

[freepowder]

I'm not interested in going back to points.
The guy I ordered from was Toyota.
As noted I tried the Chevy mod, no joy.

Is the problem with the 2F purpose built DUI dizzy one of longevity?
If so, not worried since I don't put that many miles on the 'Cruiser, besides, I'm 62, I'm not gonna be driving it far enough for much of anything save tires to wear out.

Some surfing here would indicate the main complaint about the DUI is there's no improvement over the stocker. Most of the references are several years old. So. If the stocker is better because it's vented and has ball bearings, only, but I can't get the parts to make it run, am I not better off with a DUI? Some additional investigation seems to show an equal number of people happy with the DUI setup.

So which is the best source for DUIs as I understand they are not all the same?
Alternatively, where can I get *new* igniters and coils?

 

[freepowder]

The laws of statistical probability are pointing to the likelihood that the problem lies elsewhere.

Most of the lazier websites show NLA parts being available. Why? We can only conjecture...
When it comes to the 60's... LOTS of stuff is NLA,

All the igniters are used. My original was toast, then bought 3 used coils/iginters at the local junkyard.
I get spark but it's weak. The dizzy is JimC recurve/rebuild wth about 5k miles on it. The trigger widget in the dizzy checks within spec per FSM.

So back to the original questions:

Is there any place I can get a new or NOS stock igniter and coil?
Which is the best source for the correct DUI dizzy?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I'd have to say that Output prolly nailed it...also, trying the same thing over and over and hoping for different results...anyhow. Yes, if you have indeed tried several different combos of coils and ignitors, and indeed tried the sbc module mod with similar results, then perhaps the problem lies before or after those links in the chain...

the problem with the dui dizzys is that they are put together with chicom aftermarket parts that are cobbled together to make the unit more installable into a 2F. if, for instance, the gear grenades, then you're going to need a new camshaft as well...if the unit doesn't quite fit the oil pump drive shaft, you could experience an internal melt down due to lack of lube...

You might try looking at any and all wiring associated with the ignition system and make dam certain it is as it should be before you start

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

also, if you know anyone within driving distance with a running cruiser with similar ignition system, maybe you could buy them some beers and swap in a KNOWN WORKING system to diagnose beyond reasonable doubt...I went down the aftermarket/foreign parts road, and can say that they are not the way to fix things. most of the time they end up in a sub acceptable compromise in fit, performance and durability...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

one more tid-bit...pm Delancy regarding overseas NOS stashes- he's well versed in those and knows of a few collections in the mid-east and where have you...

 

[Spike Strip]

Also sold as Wells JA1058 and AIRTEX / WELLS 6H1323 and possibly Standard Motor Parts, but you'll have to search for those part #s

http://www.autozone.com/ignition-an...dule/duralast-ignition-control-module/167579/

I'd try an HEI igniter before buying a DUI - because as stated, it's very very rare for those igniters to go bad.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/igniter-repair-for-cheapskates.802849/#post-9160336

Or, Amayama shows them as available... Part # 89620-60060

 

[freepowder]

Also sold as Wells JA1058 and AIRTEX / WELLS 6H1323 and possibly Standard Motor Parts, but you'll have to search for those part #s

http://www.autozone.com/ignition-an...dule/duralast-ignition-control-module/167579/

I'd try an HEI igniter before buying a DUI - because as stated, it's very very rare for those igniters to go bad.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/igniter-repair-for-cheapskates.802849/#post-9160336

Or, Amayama shows them as available... Part # 89620-60060

Thanks. That's what I was looking for. I'll order one and should that not fix the issue I'll trace down what else is wrong fix that and have spares.

When the OE or at least the one on it when I bought the rig went, I was pulling out of the driveway and it just quit. No spark, tested out of range per FSM, coil tested ok as did the widget in the dizzy. Used igniter fixed it. That was at about 305k miles on the clock.

 

[freepowder]

I'd have to say that Output prolly nailed it...also, trying the same thing over and over and hoping for different results...anyhow. Yes, if you have indeed tried several different combos of coils and ignitors, and indeed tried the sbc module mod with similar results, then perhaps the problem lies before or after those links in the chain...
<snip>
You might try looking at any and all wiring associated with the ignition system and make dam certain it is as it should be before you start

Ok, so. Let us recap.

Fuse ok. Battery voltage at igniter. AA battery check on dizzy end ok. Weak--yellow--spark off coil wire when cranked.
When ether sprayed in carb, starts immediately. Runs fine when warmed up, starts fine when warm. Choke is set per FSM.
Ran and started fine until the original igniter tanked around 305k miles. Ran fine with used igniter until the weather turned cold--under freezing at night at 307k miles.

My questions:
Given the above am I correct in ruling out fuel issues?
Is it not unlikely to be a problem elsewhere in the wiring given it runs fine once warm?
IOW does it not seem likely there's just not enough spark to fire cold gas if it fires ether?
Wiring checks out both voltage and resistance, what else is there to check?
What else?

I'm hoping the Duralast igniter is available. If it doesn't fix it at least I should be good for another 300,000 miles or so on the new igniter and that component is eliminated.

 

[brian]

I'm not interested in going back to points.

us market 60 series never had points ignition.
i just got a new coil from beno a few weeks ago and pretty sure the igniter are still open numbers.

 

[Spike Strip]

The igniter shows as discontinued, but BENO might be able to source one... I'd check the Toyota pipeline first, as they're about the same price.

 

[freepowder]

us market 60 series never had points ignition.
i just got a new coil from beno a few weeks ago and pretty sure the igniter are still open numbers.

Points dizzys for 2Fs are available from Trollhole. That was suggested as a fix, don't want to go back to points (I had a FJ55 with points).

PMed cruiserdan and Beno.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

how's compression? recent valve adjustment? How about engine grounds? same problem across 3 ignitors and 4 coils...How many attempts at the chevy ignition mod? you say 3 and 4 coils and no joy...did they give you spark same as the OEM stuff? was the weak spark at consistent intervals? the voltage ques seem to be where they should be...have you ohmed the coil(s)? have you tried a new coil that you can get at napa? Could be bad ignitor, but considering all things just thought to make sure that was where it is at. the used stuff you mention could also be bad, but...if the valves haven't been adjusted and are tight, could make cold starting hard; same as if compression were down for rings or valves. I don't think I remember the spark being that brilliant compared to say my old camaros hei...

 

[Output Shaft]

Ok, so. Let us recap.

Since the main issue seems to be hard starting, not engine performance after it has started, it may be productive to just go down the list of items, one by one, in the emissions manual troubleshooting section to rule out possibilities that can cause hard starting.
A vacuum leak will always cause hard starting when the engine is cold (for example).

 

[Slow Left]

How about engine grounds?

x2 on checking engine grounds. Cheap to rule out...

If the ground wire is showing high resistance, it needs to be replaced.
If the wire is OK, then maybe the ground connection(s) needs to be cleaned and refastened.

 

[freepowder]

how's compression? ------- Ok.
recent valve adjustment? ---------- no, could be it, but other symptoms? Did I mention I'm getting 14.5 mpg figured off the GPS?
How about engine grounds? ---------- all good recently replaced cables, sanded contact points.
same problem across 3 ignitors and 4 coils...How many attempts at the chevy ignition mod? uo say 3---------- three different modules no spark.
and 4 coils and no joy --------- 2 Toyota, 1 NAPA, 1 Accel
...did they give you spark same as the OEM stuff? The ones that worked did.
was the weak spark at consistent intervals? ------------ I checked the spark off the coil not at the plugs.
voltage ques seem to be where they should be...have you ohmed the coil(s)? ------ 1 Toyota good, 1 Bad, Napa good, Accel out of range per FSM.
have you tried a new coil that you can get at napa? ---------- See above
Could be bad ignitor, but considering all things just thought to make sure that was where it is at. --------- understood.
the used stuff you mention could also be bad, -------- Probably, if 300k+ miles is enough to kill the OE, why not the junikers?
but...if the valves haven't been adjusted and are tight, could make cold starting hard; ------- Could be, might be a project.
same as if compression were down for rings or valves. ---- it's not, see above
I don't think I remember the spark being that brilliant compared to say my old camaros hei ----- we're not talking lack of brilliance here, we're talking staw yellow. Even my '74 FJ55 managed a bright blue spark with the points ignition. With 200k miles on it.

I tend to operate under Occam's razor most of the time. AKA, if you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras. Unless you're in Africa. Which is where I might be after all this.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I hear ya. But I also saw you mentioning the trouble being hard starting, and spark could affect that, as could compression, and when you have to go on safari to find the replacement, best to rule out all the local suspects first.

 

[freepowder]

Since the main issue seems to be hard starting, not engine performance after it has started, it may be productive to just go down the list of items, one by one, in the emissions manual troubleshooting section to rule out possibilities that can cause hard starting.
A vacuum leak will always cause hard starting when the engine is cold (for example).

View attachment 968830

Vacuum leak ruled out--18" at idle normal for 7000' elevation and all new lines after the total de-smog.