Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota (1 Viewer)

[RWBeringer4x4]

grind a bit off the yoke to clear the driveshaft, if you move the motor back, you'll shorten the rear driveshaft and create binding issues and steep angles there - which is worse, by a lot.

I'd rather not grind the yoke, as I know that isn't the issue - it worked fine before I changed the pinion angle. The issue (I'm not sure if I discussed it here, or in another thread) with my engine location is that my V8 conversion was a complete hack job and is about 4 inches too far forward to begin with. I could move the engine back a LONG way, and still have plenty of room for a decent size rear driveshaft (with appropriate angles) while adding some clearance and a less extreme angle in the front.

self-centering is a function of alignment - what is your toe set to now?

Toe-in was set a few posts back. Currently at ~3/16 toed in. I also added caster shims, to increase the caster as this also plays a role in self-centering, and, after adding some 3/4in over stock length shackles, my caster was at about 0.3 degrees (too low). Now I should be at about 2.3 degrees, which should be about right, but I believe this is what resulted in the pinion angle change that in turn affected the driveshaft angle up front.

Aussie locker - what gets annoying about that locker, and not frightening if you know what's happening, is when you're in a corner and you stand on it the vehicle will understeer. The other issue is sometimes it won't unlock when you turn sharp from a stop so you'll get a bit of chirping.

Yep - read about this and installed it anyway! Like I said, it will just take some getting used to.

your brakes should lock up, once you get the pads bedded, then revisit this issue...

They already do. But not in such a way that is too abrupt, touchy or dangerous. I have NO issues with the brakes, love how they perform.

the bouncing, make certain that your shackles are pointing away from the axle at rest, preferrably they always point away from the axle - otherwise, it will be a rough ride... generally, it's not the shocks that cause harsh ride.

Shackles are not the issue, it's the "load helper" shocks I installed. The truck is now, effectively "double sprung" between the lightweight coilovers on the shocks, and the stock leaf springs. Plus, I was used to riding around on my previous shocks, which had seized completely, which resulted in the opposite of "bouncy." (Kidney bashing harsh). The ride is still harsh, but I still prefer it over the seized shocks. I knew this was coming when I picked up these shocks for super cheap. They'll get the job done until I lift it and need longer shocks anyway.

 

[subzali]

I disagree about the driveshaft. You've documented that the engine is way too far forward. Moving it back will put it in its proper position and help with the d shaft issue.

That said, grinding a little bit off the yoke is a way to gain a little bit more travel without binding. But if it's hitting while stationary, it will only get worse as your axle droops, and not sure you can grind enough off to fix that without compromising it.

Funny that you didn't notice it before, you didn't change anything there right? Edit: changed pinion angle with caster shims. Gotcha

Nice work Rick, you will get used to the Aussie.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Nice work man, glad you finally got to drive it... Again.

Thanks! I only drove it about 3-4 miles today. Going to retorque everything tomorrow then try to take it for a longer spin. In another 50 miles, I'll torque everything again (I've read about the U-bolts continuing to stretch).

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I disagree about the driveshaft. You've documented that the engine is way too far forward. Moving it back will put it in its proper position and help with the d shaft issue.

That said, grinding a little bit off the yoke is a way to gain a little bit more travel without binding. But if it's hitting while stationary, it will only get worse as your axle droops, and not sure you can grind enough off to fix that without compromising it.

Funny that you didn't notice it before, you didn't change anything there right?

Well, for starters, when I installed the front driveshaft and ran into this issue, the truck was on jackstands (so basically at full droop). This probably compounded the issue.

This was not an issue before - it spun freely. I did add caster shims, which change the pinion angle, which is why I think I'm probably noticing it now. Maybe I'll try popping it in tomorrow with all the wheels on the ground and some weight on the axles and see if it will spin. That said, this would DEFINITELY be problematic in the future, and is DEFINITELY not correct, so it will need to be addressed one way or another.

Short term it might not hurt to run on the road it but the last thing I need is to get stuck if my front end winds up at full droop off-road and my driveshaft jams and detonates.

 

[pb4ugo]

Congrats on this portion of your project. Glad it seems to be working. I would't run that shaft if it binds at full droop w/o limilting straps. You might consider clearencing the yoke if you can. If it ever binds you won't know it till it's too late. I'd just enjoy it w/o the shaft until you put it in storage, & start prepping for the next step.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Spoke too soon. Put a few more shakedown miles on it and the new rebuilt master cylinder started leaking from the front reservoir connection

I guess the o-ring in there isn't seated properly? Any other thoughts or recommendations on how best to tackle this? Seems like I'll have to drain the system and re-bleed...

 

[10mm]

Got to say this is a great thread. I have learned alot. Thanks!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Mil respetos tela rifas para. Modificar. Carroz.

Que? No Habla... and google translate isn't helping!

Got to say this is a great thread. I have learned alot. Thanks!

Thanks! Doing my best to document even the most inane details in case someone else has to tackle any of this down the road...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Just an update on the leaking brake master cylinder: It appears to have stopped. I messed around with the connection, kind of wiggled the tube around in the C-clip. This either reseated the O-ring, or, the oring simply swelled slightly and stopped leaking. I've stomped on the brakes about 100 times, both with the engine off, and under vacuum. Drove it around a little more, and the leak doesn't SEEM to have manifested any further. I have an O-ring on its way from Toyota, to be safe, but for the time being, I think the issue may have resolved itself!

A couple more bugs to work out - I'd appreciate opinions/feedback:

1. I still get a weird metallic "pop" in my steering when stationary. Almost like something is binding and then popping free. I've chacked, and I can't see anything binding. I'm going to go back and re-torque everything now that I've put a few miles on it - Maybe a loose leaf spring pack binding/sliding under the load of moving wheels when stationary?

2. Not sure if this is that nature of lockers, but it seems to be pretty clunky/jolty under low speed, tight-turning conditions (like parking, or backing out of a parking space). Under normal driving conditions, I almost forget the locker is there, it's only under very low speed maneuvering that things get uncomfortable/loud/clunky. May just be the nature of the beast - thoughts?

I also need to confirm I am truly hitting the steering stops prior to bottoming out my steering box. Sometimes it seems like the box is actually maxing out before I hit the stops. If that's the case, it will need to be fixed!

Loving the disc brakes. It's funny, after being terrified that my brakes won't work for so long, I'm still getting used to not having my heart skip a beat when a light turns yellow. Had to hit the brakes hard the other day to not run a very yellow light - was positive I'd wind up in the middle of the intersection, but I was pleasantly surprised to come to a nice, even, controlled, and HARD stop.

 

[subzali]

The Lock-Rights and Aussies are like that at low speed. It will take a creative combination of clutching, shifting into and out of neutral, and timing of the sharp turns to keep it from banging too much. I think most of the time when I'm turning tight into a parking spot I shift into neutral and let the clutch out before I start turning, and carry enough speed to make the turn into the spot. That usually results in the locker ratcheting vs. clunking/banging/lurching. Maybe my clutch is out of adjustment, and if it were in adjustment it wouldn't matter if the tranny was in or out of neutral or if the clutch was engaged or not

You need to post up some pics to prove you're driving it around! Build threads are no fun without whole vehicle shots

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Well, I KNOW my clutch is both bad and misadjusted so that might be part of the problem. As for whole vehicle shots, all I've got is this one, looking right at home amoung a half dozen other cars being brought back from the dead...

Maybe I'll get some proof it leaves the driveway this weekend!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Finally actually got to drive the Clustertruck around some this weekend. Trying to enjoy a few last days of driving and mountain biking before the cold really sets in. It's already in the low 30's in the morning.

There's an abandoned farm near the trail I rode this morning, so I decided to take the opportunity to get those poser shots @subzali asked for!

There is still a lot to be done, but it's great getting this thing out on the road and driving it around for a couple hours. Highly rewarding!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Next up:

Headlights - this thing is absolutely terrifying to drive at night. My high beams are about 1/2 as effective as modern low beams, and my low beams are like bad flashlights taped to the hood. Not sure if this is the nature of the wiring, but when the headlights are on, it sucks so much power from the system that my blinkers stop working...

Upgrading to Halogens, and installing a new headlight harness sounds like a pretty decent winter project. I took a brief look at the situation today...looks like I'll be having some fun deciphering what, exactly, the PO did to get this V8 installed...I have no doubt there are some electrical headaches on the horizon.

I'm most likely going to go with the IPF 7" round replacement housings, and the IPF harness. My cruiser fund is still recovering from an overambitious summer - but I will hopefully be getting the Clustertruck some new eyes for Christmas.

Another issue:

My 283's seals are finally giving up. I guess sitting outside all summer did them in. The point at which my engine block, oil pan, and timing cover meet has been quite literally barfing oil all over my freshly painted front axle. If I had to wager a guess, I'm probably losing about 1/4-1/2 quart per 100 miles driven. I'll continue to drive it and top it off, most likely, until I pull the engine for repositioning.

When is the engine getting pulled? Just as soon as I finish buying all the parts...which might take a while.

 

[brian]

pulling the engine, would be a good time to put a 2f back in it.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

pulling the engine, would be a good time to put a 2f back in it.

I've given that a lot of thought, but I don't think its a bridge I'm going to cross. Aside from the fact I'd need to find a 2F in good condition and rebuild it ($$$) I'd need to rewire the truck for the I6 as well. With parts getting so scarce for the F engines, it just seems like a bad idea.

Conversely parts for the small block chevy are everywhere, and universal across about 50 years. Plus whole, brand new engines are relatively cheap. As much as I'd love to have a 2F in my cruiser, I think that ship has sailed.

 

[Vae Victus]

Halogens suck power. Lots of folks getting good results w the new LED lights. Might want to explore.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Halogens suck power. Lots of folks getting good results w the new LED lights. Might want to explore.

I'll be routing them straight off the battery with the new harness, as opposed to through the main harness as the currently are. This will alleviate the power draw issue (in addition to the non-corroded wiring). Last I checked LEDs were either astronomically expensive or not a great "color" light for the headlights. Tons of folks have been happy with the halogen conversions, at least as far as I've read...

 

[subzali]

Nice mountain bike Rick! IPF lights and harness sound like a good idea. I did round eyes and the IPF harness is still on my list

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Nice mountain bike Rick! IPF lights and harness sound like a good idea. I did round eyes and the IPF harness is still on my list

Thanks! I've always been a trail runner/hiker/rock climber/backpacker, so mountain biking was a natural progression. When I quit my job a few months ago and they paid me for unused vacation, I bit the bullet and bought one. Every now and then I still spend my disposable income on something OTHER than my 40. The bike is nothin' fancy, but given that I have no idea what I'm doing yet, it gets the job done!

You know I'll be posting progress reports when I get the lights and harness, so you'll get to see if the IPF harness is worth it!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Ok - the down time from updating this thread is driving me mad! I had to take a step back from Project: Clustertruck after a summer and fall of busting my butt virtually every free weekend. Plus, the Cruiser Fund needed to recover, and my parts getter/daily driver (Mazda 3) needed some attention (not to mention the ). BUT I have not given up the fight - I'm still here, and slowly, but surely, getting read to jump into my winter project:

Should be plug and play, right? WRONG AGAIN!

It seems the PO got into the wiring harness as well...For those of you following my other recent thread (School me in Wiring) this is a recap. Essentially, in starting to dig into the wiring of my truck, I discovered:

1. I have an externally regulated alternator that is disconnected from the external voltage regulator (running unregulated)
2. I have one (1) primary battery ground, and no engine block/starter grounds whatsoever
3. I have no fusible link protecting my harness
4. I have more wires leading to nowhere than I no what to do with, and tons of "twist and tape" repairs and wire nuts that will need to be addressed.

In short - I'm not sure how the truck hasn't caught fire and burned, end to end yet, or at least shorted itself out...In fact, the electrical has not given me too many problems, outside of the occasional turn signal seizures.

So, as usual, what started as a simple upgrade to the headlights and headlight harness, has evolved into a more extensive repair of all the harness (or at least the engine bay part of it).

My guess is that the lack of regulation on the alternator is the reason I see such a huge voltage drop when I use the accessories. Basically, the alternator doesn't "know" to increase the amperage to accommodate for my running the headlights, windshield wipers, defrosters, and turn signals all at once...

Some more shots of the carnage:

I've got a fusible link on order from Coolerman. He (and many others) have been incredibly helpful in getting this deciphered.

The plan moving forward is to take a Multimeter to the batteries and alternator, and see if it is charging at all, figuring out if the disconnected regulator works at all, and how much of a drop we are seeing with the accessories running. From there, it will be a matter of either wiring in an internally regulated alternator, or replacing the alt/voltage regulator with something more similar to what is already there, depending on what I find.

Once all that has been addressed, I'll get back to installing the headlights.