I have an 87 FJ60 4 sp manual trans. I'm replacing radiator( which I've never done myself), and I see that there is what appears to be a transmission cooler just behind the grill and forward of the actual radiator. I'm the 2nd owner and the original guy is a friend of mine who kept it all stock. My question is do I need to remove this? Or does it actually connect to the trans? Or basically why is it even there if this is a stock truck w/ a manual 4 speed tranny? Very confusing to me and I can't find any info about it, even on this site.
FJ60 4 sp manual with transmission cooler? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mrmanos
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it could be the AC condenser, or an aftermarket power steering cooler...how big is it? follow the lines that come off of it to where they connect and you will learn...
Its the A/C condenser, I'm sure.
You don't have to remove it. It will be a PITA with it in the way but when I had to pull my rad 3 times(long story) I didn't remove it.
Its been many years by I recall just undoing the bolts that hold it in place and leaning the condenser towards the grill.
Just take your time.
You don't have to remove it. It will be a PITA with it in the way but when I had to pull my rad 3 times(long story) I didn't remove it.
Its been many years by I recall just undoing the bolts that hold it in place and leaning the condenser towards the grill.
Just take your time.
yeah, if it's the condenser, do not disconnect the refridgerant lines, just undo the mounting bolts and lean forward as described. pull the battery, the battery tray, and the radiator hoses; pull the screws out of the turn and and headlight buckets and let them hang on their harnesses, unclip the grill and remove it; it is easy from there
I don't recall having to remove the grill or light assemblies.
But I'm thin and can squeeze my arms into pretty tight places so maybe I didn't have to.
Tip to OP, if you're pulling your rad to have a crack repaired, get familiar with the removal and installation process because you'll being doing it again.
I know it may be a hit to the wallet but do what you can to find a NEW radiator.
Also, buy a ton of distilled water to flush the system before you add your coolant and call it good.
But I'm thin and can squeeze my arms into pretty tight places so maybe I didn't have to.
Tip to OP, if you're pulling your rad to have a crack repaired, get familiar with the removal and installation process because you'll being doing it again.
I know it may be a hit to the wallet but do what you can to find a NEW radiator.
Also, buy a ton of distilled water to flush the system before you add your coolant and call it good.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the tip! Yeah, it must be the a/c condenser, and my a/c hasn't worked for ten years, so I guess I won't worry about it. I'll just do as you suggest and loosen it, tilt it forward, whatever, and then proceed. I bought an aluminum replacement from Cruisercorps instead of an OEM, or having this one fixed. The closest radiator shop is 45 miles west of here. I think when I get the new one installed, I'll take the old one there and have it repaired. Funny thing, the one I'm replacing is only 4 years old, but it's been leaking from the top seam for about a year. Thanks, I'll keep you'all posted on my repair job. If I can get started w/o too much trouble, I'll take pix and post them.
Is it possible that it is the gasket on the radiator cap (or the top hose) that is leaking, and not the seam in the radiator housing itself?
How could you test to convince yourself?
Maybe get a new gasket for the cap or a new cap (if the gasket is not replaceable), dry everything off and then see if it still leaks? Snug up that hose clamp?
Not trying to complicate things...just wondering if there is a way to diagnose that indeed a new radiator is in order, since you mention that it is only 4 years old...
...and for what it is worth, I like the idea of professionally flushing the old cooling system to get all the precipitates out...helps keep the coolant flowing through all the circuits and getting rid of any blockages...distilled water helps too.
Is the rig running hot?
- Thread starter
- #8
I bought an aluminum one from Cruiser Corps. The original owner told me that he went trough about 6 radiators before he sold it to me in 2007. And a 2 years after I bought it, the water pump bearing burned out and the fan flew through the radiator at 40 mph. I had everything replaced. I'm hoping the aluminum works well. I've read good and bad things about them, but I want to see for myself. Many thanks for the tips. ( my girlfriend is assisting me and she has thin arms, so I'l try to not remove the grill at first. I will if I have to.
- Thread starter
- #9
Its thin, about 1 inch thick, roughly the same size as the rad., I'm pretty sure its like you said, condenser for a/c . I'm not worried about it now that you told me what it is. Theres no refrigerant in the a/c system at all. Its never worked, and where I live it never gets really hot(n.w. colorado0. It gets really cold, like 25 below zero, so its more impt for my heater to work, which thankfully, it does really well.
- Thread starter
- #10
I know its the seam along the top because it started in on tiny place one day when I was at the post office. I saw a friend coming out the door, and he said, "see that vapor coming out of your hood?", I instantly opened the hood and saw a very tiny jet of green fluid squirting out along the upper seam about in the center. I cleaned the entire area well, let it sit overnight. Started again, let it warm up...there it was... I cheaped out and fixed it with metal epoxy. Well, the fix held for awhile, but it sprung more leaks in the same area. The only local rad shop is 45 miles west of here, so I didn't want to take it out, drive it there, etc. too big of a hassle. To your 3rd point, it does not run hot. I do add coolant frequently, and also added some Bars Stop leak. Before I actually remove old one and begin the job, I'm going to flush it, it has a hose attachment on the heater hoses up along the firewall so I can screw on a garden hose, remove the drain plug, let it run for maybe 20 minutes to flush out all the crap it must have in it. When I am done with the replacement job, I'll take the old one to the aforementioned shop and have it fixed. Then if the aluminum one fails, I'll have an extra.
I'm sure it will do well. Just make sure you run distilled water and coolant of proper grade.
Mine didn't have the original when I got it.
Come to find out, it had a Chevy radiator in it. I cant remember what application it was for but it was virtually identical to the Yota.
Mine developed a crack. Pulled it, got it fixes. A few months later, it happened again. Had it fixed again to keep me on the road while I searched for another. Toyota wanted the usual arm and a leg for it. On a whim, I went to the shop where I had been getting the cracks repaired to try his luck to see if he couldn't find one through his channels. Sure enough, he had an BRAND NEW OEM rad sitting on a high shelf in the back of his shop. Had been there for years it seemed from the level of dust on the box. Cant remember what I paid but it was certainly a lot cheaper then the dealership.
I plan on overhauling my whole Cruiser in the coming months/years and Ill probably throw an aluminum one in there.
Since you don't need a/c, have you thought about eliminating the compressor and assorted parts?
You know...for weight saving....try and get another 2/10 seconds off your quarter mile time?
Sounds like a good plan.
If you notice a mud/clay like sludge in the bottom of the overfill tank, that is an indicator that the water (presumably tap water, not distilled water) is reacting with the metal surfaces of the cooling system...and the metal is precipitating out into solution in some form of oxide or other...
And if it is showing up in the overflow tank, it is probably also sitting in low flow areas throughout the cooling system. The chemicals during the cooling system flush are supposed to break up/suspend those deposits so that they can be removed with the flushed out water...remember to run both front and rear heaters on hot during flush.
I ended up replacing every heater hose except one (NLA), new radiator, new cap, new fan clutch, new thermostat (180*), and a flush (before installing all new stuff) as well as a new EGR valve and EGR Valve modulator and now the rig runs as cool as a cucumber...
if you have the resources, replacing all the hoses in one shot mitigates the risk of having to do emergency hose replacements on the side of the road...one by one...because after one 30 year old heater hose blows and is replaced by a new one, the one next to it now becomes the weak link...and goes a few weeks later...
If you get in touch with Onur ( @beno here on MUD), he offers 25% discount to MUD folks and he'll set you up with the hardware you need...
If you've been adding Bars Stop Leak I would flush the rad system multiple times with the bad radiator on it before you add the new.
That stop leak stuff does more harm than good IMHO.
That stop leak stuff does more harm than good IMHO.
man, I'm a huge fan of oem radiators and having them boiled, sealed and or cored. they last forever. the aftermarket ones not so much. if the new radiator is aluminum, make sure to flush and use the right coolant.
- Thread starter
- #15
I have another question about the aluminum radiator. It has two screw threaded ports that go into the bottom. They look like attachments for a transmission cooler for an automatic tranny. I ca see that they are not part of the radiator core
You're lucky you scored the brand new oem! In my town there is only one place that really works on old FJs, and they throw you a big wait time, and attitude. I get the feeling they sort of profile guys who drive the old ones as too cheap to get a newer one. I could be wrong. But thats how they made me feel whenever I had to go to them.
Thanks for the tips. I plan to flush the system, heaters, everything including overflow tank. If I can get new hoses quickly, I'll replace them too. They are in decent shape, I think, but still should be replaced. Do I need to use a special type of coolant for the aluminum? I'm hoping to get it done before it starts snowing here. I have to do all the work in my unheated barn, so I want to do it within the next week or 2 at the latest.
Yes, I've thought about removing all the a/c stuff, but I'm really not that good of a mechanic. I guess you could say I have low self esteem about my abilities. However, I can see that it wouldn't be too hard. Just pump, condenser, some hoses..I'd actually like to see all that extra weight. As you mentioned, it would give me a better time in the 1/4 mile! And maybe it would increase my mpg by .05 of a percent.
You're lucky you scored the brand new oem! In my town there is only one place that really works on old FJs, and they throw you a big wait time, and attitude. I get the feeling they sort of profile guys who drive the old ones as too cheap to get a newer one. I could be wrong. But thats how they made me feel whenever I had to go to them.
Thanks for the tips. I plan to flush the system, heaters, everything including overflow tank. If I can get new hoses quickly, I'll replace them too. They are in decent shape, I think, but still should be replaced. Do I need to use a special type of coolant for the aluminum? I'm hoping to get it done before it starts snowing here. I have to do all the work in my unheated barn, so I want to do it within the next week or 2 at the latest.
I don't know if you must use a special type of coolant for that radiator. Have you contacted the manufacturer or retailer? @LAMBCRUSHER mentioned something about it in his post above, so maybe he can inform you better...
Talk to beno. If you do a search for any post by him here on MUD, you will see his phone number in his signature line. He works for Toyota in GA, and is very helpful and responsive...I'll bet he can get you those parts in a jiffy...
In the future... (for any of us who may not know....)
If a leak develops somewhere in the cooling system, be it at the water pump seal, a small crack in the radiator, or GFB you find the engine is burning coolant, a safe and easy way to deal with it before really dealing with it, is to simply discombobulate the spring pressure valve in the radiator cap so that coolant can flow freely in and out to the overflow tank without any restriction. This creates an un-pressurized cooling system and will stop almost all leaks.
And to answer the next obvious question...
No the engine won't overheat or boil over.
I ran my car like that (with a 180º thermostat) for 5 years (in blazing deserts too) until I finally got around to taking the head off to replace the HG.
anyway....
I would recommend using RO (reverse osmosis) water over distilled water in the radiator. The DI water is so pure it actually acts like a weak solvent and will pull ions from the metal... at least that is my latest theory... Look it up.
If a leak develops somewhere in the cooling system, be it at the water pump seal, a small crack in the radiator, or GFB you find the engine is burning coolant, a safe and easy way to deal with it before really dealing with it, is to simply discombobulate the spring pressure valve in the radiator cap so that coolant can flow freely in and out to the overflow tank without any restriction. This creates an un-pressurized cooling system and will stop almost all leaks.
And to answer the next obvious question...
No the engine won't overheat or boil over.
I ran my car like that (with a 180º thermostat) for 5 years (in blazing deserts too) until I finally got around to taking the head off to replace the HG.
anyway....
I would recommend using RO (reverse osmosis) water over distilled water in the radiator. The DI water is so pure it actually acts like a weak solvent and will pull ions from the metal... at least that is my latest theory... Look it up.
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micruz60
Unleaded Regular
I would suggest also cutting the fan shroud into two piesces, horizontal cut midway down....
Don't worry, Im sure people on here will be glad to give you helpful info and encouragement.
I was 16/17 when I had my rad problems. You learn as you go.
When I first pulled the chevy rad it took me many hours to get that thing out.
Having the need to do it many times, I got quick and could probably do it in an hour or so.
Same with my current DD Dodge. Granted it has a lot less to it but I can pull that thing in 20 minutes.
If you could, if you havent done the swap already, post some pics of the old and the new radiators side by side.
Perhaps even do a writeup for others.
Why would you cut the shroud in half?
The 2708 CSF aftermarket radiator that I used for my 60, is a "generic" model that covers both the 60 and 62. Since the 62 has an automatic, the ports are there for the cooler. Chances are, your new radiator is the same. I'd plug em if you don't need them, or if you ever plan to run oversize tires, you can plumb the power steering through it, to increase capacity and keep the ps fluid cool.
Glenn in Tucson
