Help needed with Hub Re-build (1 Viewer)

[mouchra]

I find myself in a bind because not reading before starting this job. I took the driver side hub apart on my 85 FJ60 to replace seals and bearings. I got a full kit from Specter. I replaced the races and bearings on the knuckle but I did not take note of the amount and location of the shims . There is a total of three shims. I believe two where on the bottom and one on the top but not sure. Now I have a new set of shims I could use for it but I am not sure how to proceed. I would appreciate any help please.

 

[Output Shaft]

Typically, the steering knuckle is put back together using your old shims, even when the bearings and races are replaced. New shims are usually (but not always) only required if the knuckle or axle housing is replaced.

If I recall, when I did mine last year, my steering knuckles had two shims on the bottom and one on the top… but that was my car, not yours. Other Mudders can chime in. You could always take apart the other side to make sure.
Also the factory manual shows two shims on the bottom… but don't take that as gospel.

If you don't have the Factory manual, You can download it HERE>

It's fun to have a spring fishing scale during assembly to check the frictional force of the knuckle trunnion bearings as described in the manual... Then you will know for sure if your bearing preload is correct with your shims.

[Edit: Also check this thread that was already started:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-knuckle-rebuild.768436/

 

[mouchra]

Thank you for your quick response, I do have the manual and I did notice the amount of shims on the picture.
I did leave one on the arm, so even though I took the other ones off without making a note I believe is safe to assume that those were on the bottom.
I will check the force once it is assembled. I am taking the opposite side apart soon, then I will verify the location and amount.

Thank you again for your help!

 

[Spike Strip]

I find myself in a bind because not reading before starting this job.

Uh, huh.


In response to your other post, to get it back together right, you'll need the knuckle SST and a 11" caliper, to figure out the thickness of shims needed top vs bottom to center the knuckle around the axle shaft. But if there were only three shims total just try two on either top or bottom and see what looks better. Again, you're trying to center the knuckle so the axle shaft is centered in the spindle.

There are some threads where people have kind of eye-balled it and it seems to have worked ok. You'll have to search for those as I don't know where I saw them. Could be in the 40 section, also.

Maybe there's someone in you local club who could lend you the knuckle tool?

 

[augirthedude]

https://www.marlincrawler.com/hardware-tools/tools/knuckle-alignment-tool
here is a link to the alignment and preload tool.
The left and right side shims have no relevance to each other . My shim setup on my 60 is quite a ways off from the other side.

 

[mouchra]

Thank you for your responses, I will follow up with the links you have provided.

 

[Spiva]

I just did my 90 62, and it had two on top and one on the bottom. It was the same on both sides too. I was surprised to see that since I'd heard otherwise. Good luck.

 

[FJ60Seth]

Trial and error. The shims center the axle vertically. If not centered correctly, you won't be able to even tighten the top & bottom bolts, or if you can, the knuckle is going to be too tight or loose when turned, hence the bearing preload test.

1. Put everything back together and try to torque the top and bottom bolts to spec.

2. If the bolts seem like they won't tighten, the alignment is way off. Don't force it. Stop and try a different combination of shims. As the axle gets closer to centered, the bolts will all tighten.

3. Once you can tighten the bolts to spec, check the preload. If it's out spec (too loose or tight), try a different combination of shims.

Repeat until preload is good.

 

[mouchra]

Thank you, it all worked. Bolts and preload to spec. Thank you