cult45's 45 recovery and remobilisation (2 Viewers)

[west aussie]

looks good daniel. i was so hoping that was your plan for it! they take a lot of cleaning! i have one from this era i am wrecking if you need stuff i may be able to help. when you start tinkering save what you can of those original hoseclamps; they are nice to have. the cab of my 64 patina was full of po junk. old plugs and points, jars of tealeaf and sugar, cartridges, 1080 dog bait warning signs and etc. i packed all this junk in a little box and kept it. thought it might make an amusing display on the seat if the old survivor ever languishes in a museum or somesuch for a time. i forget your po details but i always ask the po if they have any photos of the old girl that they can copy to keep with it; even if it only pops up in the background somewhere. anyways good work - have fun. flick me a pm with your email or ph. no. if you wish.

 

[cult45]

Thanks mate, you're a good man. I'll shout if I need.

 

[cult45]

Anyone know what year Toyota Australia changed from the ribbed dash to true non-ribbed? Got a line on some knobs from a '74 but I don't know if they'll be the same.

 

[cult45]

So I'm back after three loooooong weeks out west. Going to spend a few days getting this thing running, concentrating firstly on the engine/trans. If it's been sitting for a few years, but turns freely, is there anything I should do before firing it up? I was gonna drain all fluids and replace and hit the key.

 

[west aussie]

hows it going? i love start up day! pack the esky. drain the fueltank. i usually pull the plugs, give the bores a bit of an oilcan squirt and crank a time with the plugs out. you can do a quick compresion test then; even if is just the old thumb over the plughole method. i always pull the rocker cover and check for condensation. usually needs a clean (and you've got your old fuel sitting in a bucket anyway!). then you can check the operation of the valve train while cranking plugless. a rough valveset is usually early on the agenda for me; i dont get over excited for a start, just make sure there is clearance. make sure you get oil to the rocker shaft once she fires up, this can take a bit of time (my 61 had me particularly worried) but a good dose with the oilcan while you are waiting is the go. also a squirt down each pushrod hole to give the cam followers a bit of love. have a good feel of the waterpump, how free it spins etc. be a bit wary of whether your thermostat is working correctly. a study of the water movement with the rad cap of gives you a bit of an idea. when dropping the coolant there is a drain plug towards the back of the block. decent temp gauge is a good idea, often i just throw a cappillary type sender in the top rad hose (pic in my stablemate thread). aircleaner love of course. keep a good eye on external oil lines. dont know if you still have hydraulics or not but the clutch plate can have a tendancy to stick on its shaft if they been sitting a long time. can sort this with a little crc and a bit of persuasion wing a long drift through the clutch cover. (some of mine have been sitting a long time). a quick emery clean of the points and dizzy cap helps though it is surprising what you can get away with! keep battery terminals as loose as you can get away with so you can quickly pop them off by hand if you get a whiff of burnt wiring. i don't leave new arrival unattended with the battery connected until i am more than happy with the wiring. dont want it to burn down and take your shed with it. fire extinguisher on standby. repack the esky. drive.

 

[cult45]

It lives!

 

[west aussie]

splendid

 

[cult45]

splendid

Thanks for your help here west aussie. I followed most of your instructions and she fired! Thanks mate

 

[Pauciflora]

G'day Daniel,

Nice old truck. I think the little wire things you mentioned hold the rubber gasket in place between the top and bottom sections of the cab.

What are your plans for the old girl, other than using it for bate to pick up hot chics?

Cheers,

Ben

 

[west aussie]

found these clips on my 61 fj40 today. they look similar. these hold (held) the rubber in place for the tub mount.

 

[cult45]

Thanks Ben. In other similar period cars it's used to hold vinyl or leather, so that sounds about right. Plans for the moment are just to get her registered. Future plans are a bit radical though. Either a style side ute converted to 2WD running VN V8 engine, trans, rack, struts, diff, brakes, a/c etc or a plonk it on a 80/100 series frame after stretching the cab 8" on all three axis. Either of those are a bit wild, so until I buy my house I'll just her running and registered. But I know what'll happen, I'll get too attached to her and won't be able to deviate from stock.

 

[cult45]

So I'm back from out west. Woke up this morning to this lil guy parked up on the lawn. But no time to ogle, lots to do.

Today I got..

Tie rod ends installed/greased.
Brake drums dropped off for skimming.
New brake master bought, to which I quickly added the old faded reservoir
Just need to get this hard line remade and I'm ready for fluid..

 

[cult45]

I also..

Sourced three of four Dunlop Roadtrek Major's - just need one more.
5 x 16" split rims - hub cap ready.
Disassembled, lubed and reassembled two broken indicator switches into one. Just need power to check but should be ok.
Steering wheel and horn contacts removed ready for cleaning. Any idea where to get the rubber that holds them apart?

 

[cult45]

Any idea where this pin goes? Was stuck in the back of the steering wheel hub.

And where on God's green earth do you get wiper blades for these old girls?? Whilst we're at it, the splines on the wiper arms are worn down. I'm all out of ideas how to fix them. Thoughts?

 

[cult45]

Oh and just as I was preparing to pull the trigger on seatbelts from SOR, I found these. I'd always assumed they were aftermarket s***e until I spied that little logo we all dream of..

 

[cult45]

Got machined drums back, as well as new brake master to distribution block hardline. Got felt reinstalled in air cleaner. Inside front RHS brakes as I found them.

 

[cult45]

Turned out the hardline was too short. So what do you do? Buy yourself a few mm by unbolting the distribution block from the chassis. Bolt on the hardline. Reattach the block to the chassis. Voila!

 

[cult45]

Filled the brake master with fluid and began pumping. And pumping. And pumping. Until my rear RHS wheel cylinder exploded. So I pulled it down to inspect. Turns out it was seized. The dark area is where the inside of the cylinder has corroded, but jeez it's only microns proud. Is it too proud, or should I just reassemble? Also the pistons - are they ok?

 

[ozcrusier]

If you plan on keeping this truck I would have the wheel cylinders fitted with stainless inserts and never worry about them again. If you're doing modern upgrades go rotors on all four corners.

 

[cult45]

Thanks oz. I'm not going to upgrade to discs. If I can find a cool old-school booster in working order I'll give that a go, otherwise I'll just run the stock unboosted drums.

I found a vid on youtube suggesting the bores have to be silky smooth, so I'm going to pull down all the wheel cylinders and check them before ordering some more.