HELP! Code 24 and 32- No start! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 12, 2023
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Location
Lufkin, Texas
Hello all.
A few days ago I discovered my Landcruiser was a bit sluggish on acceleration when the engine was cold.
Checked for codes:
Code 24: Air intake circuit
Code 32: Air flow meter

I removed the MAF to clean it. Hooked it all back up… No start.
If I unplug the MAF, it will start briefly then immediately die.
I plug it back in, and it just cranks, no start.

Any ideas? I have no problem paying a couple hundred for a new MAF, I just want to make sure that will solve the issue.
 
You can test your VAF with the steps in the FSM. Pretty straightforward. How did you clean it and did you pull apart the screws on it?
 
You can test your VAF with the steps in the FSM. Pretty straightforward. How did you clean it and did you pull apart the screws on it?
I cleaned it with MAF spray. And yeah… I did take off the screws. But I didn’t yank it out… I just pulled a little on it, until I saw it wasn’t doing to come all the way out. I did not think I had pulled enough to do any damage…
 
Sir this is not MAF sensor this is a VAF electro mechanical device.

you most probably assassinated your VAF unfortunately you are not the first nor the last
Assassinated no one sir!

I see well is there a resistance test for this part or maybe a an acceptable voltage drop during operation?
 
Any ideas? I have no problem paying a couple hundred for a new MAF, I just want to make sure that will solve the issue.
Do you get a CHECK ENGINE light when the key is in the ON position before cranking the starter?
If no, then a quick diagnosis would be to unplug the AFM by lifting the spring clip on the connector and see if the CEL illuminates. If the CEL comes on without the AFM plugged in, then the culprit is the AFM. If it does not, then there is another issue.
No CEL with the key in the ON position=no start.
 
Do you get a CHECK ENGINE light when the key is in the ON position before cranking the starter?

If no, then a quick diagnosis would be to unplug the AFM by lifting the spring clip on the connector and see if the CEL illuminates. If the CEL comes on without the AFM plugged in, then the culprit is the AFM. If it does not, then there is another issue.

No CEL with the key in the ON position=no start.
@jonheld thank you for the info. I know the no start diagnostics from the FAQ; I printed it and its in the glove compartment with all necessary tools and parts, and it saved me once already from a dead corpse of no start rig in the middle of the desert.

I didn't know about disconnecting the VAF with no C E light, maybe its best to update the FAQ

Unfortunately, he unscrew the 2 screws on the VAF connector
 
You’re going to need to source a used afm unit. Been there, done that. Ther is no saving the old one if you took the screws out and tugged on the plug. You broke the fragile solder joints. This the most common mistake people do on the obd1 units. I tried to solder mine back but it still showed the code. Some said they have sent them off but haven’t heard any positive results. I luckily found a used one and have been trouble free since. It was $150 four years ago, I can’t imagine what they cost used now if you can find one. Replace and move on.
 
I didn't know about disconnecting the VAF with no C E light, maybe its best to update the FAQ
This only works for OBD1 (3FE and early 1FZ) and is only a quick diagnostic test, assuming the CEL is not on.
 

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