I got mine for Spector . and they fit perfect . Everything else i got from City Racer all quality products
'72 Door refresh (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter steffan
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I believe @Racer65 has them.
I did the same. Nice.
steffan
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #24
These were probably the most painful purchase of this project.... I tried all kinds of plastic push fittings with no luck, over 3 hours bending all types of wire to no avail - everything was either too big or too small, too stiff or too loose.. finally bit the bullet and ordered them from the dealership at $4 each
steffan
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #25
I'd like to thank everyone for their input - it's all been very helpful! I was really dreading this project but all in all, it was much easier than I had anticipated. That being said, there are a few things I wish I would have known ahead of time.
for those that are considering this, please note:
as much as I thought I could pull it off, the window trim/ weatherstrip has to be removed for the upper frame to go into the door. now I suppose if you really pushes and had not concern for tearing the trim you could force it. That meant I had to remove everything one more time
since the window is now in the door, there is no clearance to place the trim without lowering the window further down into the door: I now had to remove the lower stop/ window rest..... this was super scary because this had never been done. I had nightmares of frozen screws etc, drilling them out and ruining the paint. fortunately, they came out with only a minor struggle
for those that are considering this, please note:
as much as I thought I could pull it off, the window trim/ weatherstrip has to be removed for the upper frame to go into the door. now I suppose if you really pushes and had not concern for tearing the trim you could force it. That meant I had to remove everything one more time
since the window is now in the door, there is no clearance to place the trim without lowering the window further down into the door: I now had to remove the lower stop/ window rest..... this was super scary because this had never been done. I had nightmares of frozen screws etc, drilling them out and ruining the paint. fortunately, they came out with only a minor struggle
steffan
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #26
here is the second lesson - make sure the door lock cylinder is placed BEFORE the upper frame is installed. this was a headache but somehow I was able to pull it off. I had also placed the access panel thinking I was almost home - again, I got to do it twice.
once the upper frame is placed in the door, the window channel all but blocks access to the lock cylinder. with some long, skinny pliers and screw drivers, I was able to finagle the clip into place.
once the upper frame is placed in the door, the window channel all but blocks access to the lock cylinder. with some long, skinny pliers and screw drivers, I was able to finagle the clip into place.
steffan
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #27
some pictures of the progress. the bolts holding the upper frame to the door (6 in total - 2 short, 4 not so critical) - as was said earlier, the fasteners on the left hand side (outer side?) thread into the window run itself, if the fastener is too long, it will crack the glass
steffan
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #29
some better pictures of the window crank and the access panel. this is far from a period correct build so most of the fasteners don't match the original. since I was a kid working on dirt bikes I've had a strong disdain for Phillips head screws and their propensity to strip and mar.
not sure if the weatherstripping on the access panel is correct but it provides a secure and airtight fit
as you can see - I was getting ahead of myself, had the access panel placed before the door latch, etc
not sure if the weatherstripping on the access panel is correct but it provides a secure and airtight fit
as you can see - I was getting ahead of myself, had the access panel placed before the door latch, etc
sparky work here , very nice details that , matter ...
did you know that you can add a passenger side ( for a LHD ) door lock key cylinder to the RH passenger side door ....
just think for a moment , RHD 1972 FJ40 .....
some market regions FJ45 pick up's had this neat feature ....
some / most usa spec. FJ40 / 45 the RH / pass side handle mechanism have the small square female receiver hole all ready there , simply roughed in for you ,
if not , you can swap on the dummy blank one with one from a 1/75-10/85 rear 40 ambulance door handle assy.
that's it ....!
you would use the same exact drivers door lock key cylinder parts you see below ......
.
this is what i call a " measure 8 times , drill once " upgrade , all your doing is making a " mirror' image lock cylinder hole , of the drivers side you already have
done !
.
study your 2 current lh and rh inner door handle paddel parts , it will become abundantly clear right away
.
nice work !
.
matt
,
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steffan
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #32
some final pictures of everything assembled. still amazed that everything went together as well as it did but even more so, that the door closed and latched!
after all the new body panels etc I was sure there would be an alignment issue but miraculously, it all works
after all the new body panels etc I was sure there would be an alignment issue but miraculously, it all works
steffan
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #33
I'm pretty sure I purchased it on ebay, but it looks like it's available from a lot of different vendors. I did a search for Precision Parts, vent window gasket VWL 5110 63 and it comes up (there is a left and right). It's really soft and pliable, fit perfectly, so it should seal well. I think the trick might be to have the vent window tension adjusted correctly (bottom spring). I might have to redo mine - I had put some grease on the pivots and now it moves way easy to the point where I will have to put too much spring tension (too much in that it deforms the gasket) in to keep it opened in the wind. hope that helps
Thanks I’ll check that out
Been there, done that. It’s like when these trucks were designed the engineers planned to make them restorable. Amazing.I'd like to thank everyone for their input - it's all been very helpful! I was really dreading this project but all in all, it was much easier than I had anticipated. That being said, there are a few things I wish I would have known ahead of time.
for those that are considering this, please note:
as much as I thought I could pull it off, the window trim/ weatherstrip has to be removed for the upper frame to go into the door. now I suppose if you really pushes and had not concern for tearing the trim you could force it. That meant I had to remove everything one more time
since the window is now in the door, there is no clearance to place the trim without lowering the window further down into the door: I now had to remove the lower stop/ window rest..... this was super scary because this had never been done. I had nightmares of frozen screws etc, drilling them out and ruining the paint. fortunately, they came out with only a minor struggle
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Green Bean
GOLD Star
This thread is very inspirational. Our vent windows on our 1970 didn't have the stops installed when the doors were assembled a couple of years ago by a dufus (me). So, today I removed the passenger side vent window and only partially lifted the upper door from the bottom portion (because I didn't want to remove the weatherstripping.... I was able to maneuver the stop and nylon washer into position and reassemble. Very difficult to do it this way and I don't recommend it! But I'm not sure that I positioned the stop correctly. How far open should the vent window go before it hits the stop? I think mine only goes a couple of inches. Thanks. I still need to do the driver's side.
Green Bean
GOLD Star
Thanks! Got it. I think that I originally installed the little metal stopper backwards and it was stopping the vent window from opening all the way. I ended up flipping it and I believe that they now operate as intended.
By the way your rear lift hatch turned out great. I believe that I sourced the stainless M5 x .08x 12mm Oval Head Screws for Liftgate Access Panel from McMaster.
steffan
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #40
the last little bit of work which was no fun at all: the weather seal. it was a pain to glue and place... I ended up glueing both the door and the rubber, let it tack and then held it to the door with masking tape for 24 hours. seems like it's holding so I'm happy
