'71 FJ40 Meet Jiffy (1 Viewer)

[TwelveGravity]

This area is pretty rusted and I'll need to sand away at it to see if it can be saved or if I'll need to cut and replace some metal.

 

[TwelveGravity]

Missing the latch? Just bend a long nail and beat it in? & How about them welds.....

Hmm, stainless to carbon steel. When something doesn't look right & you start to dig.

 

[peesalot]

Might want to pull the tank up and have a look at floor and bottom of tank while you have it apart. I am not a fan of the tool box as it condesates in them and walla, mine was removed by PO and at first I was miffed but over 20+ years I now appreciate the foresight. Thas a clean rig. For wires just locate the factory harness coming from all 4 corners & thru firewall, identify the factory harness going to gauges & hazard/blinker/brake , take everything else out. I used a small 12v batt and test leads to identify & tag the wires for running lights, blinkers, brakes, etc. Some like to use the factory wire color codes, I prefer to test each wire & label anyway, if it corresponds with factory colors all the better for reassembly.

 

[TwelveGravity]

It's a shame to get rid of this custom exhaust but that'll get corrected.

 

[TwelveGravity]

I pulled both driveshafts to service them & replace the U-joints and found that the rear was missing 2 of 4 nuts.

 

[TwelveGravity]

Compression test
Cyl 1 - 92psi
Cyl 2 - 120psi
Cyl 3 - 110psi
Cyl 4 - 92psi
Cyl 5 - 120psi
Cyl 6 - 140 psi

As she sits now, I think how far I want or should take the build. Should I strip the rest of the body down to address surface rust on the body & chassis? That's quite a commitment. Should I drop the transmission & transfer case to have that gone through? I've had work done by Georg on my previous 40 and was very satisfied with VH's work. Should I pull the 1F to have it gone through? I hear the oil/lubrication system is the sole killer of these 1F's and a lot of people swap a 2F. I'd personally like to keep the 1F, 3 speed column shift, I'd like to maybe pull the Weber off and have the original carb rebuilt and put back on but still unsure about that yet.
I'm thinking of sanding the inside of the tub while I have it stripped and re-paint or re-coat it. I have read to avoid truckbed liner style coatings.

 

[TwelveGravity]

Might want to pull the tank up and have a look at floor and bottom of tank while you have it apart. I am not a fan of the tool box as it condesates in them and walla, mine was removed by PO and at first I was miffed but over 20+ years I now appreciate the foresight. Thas a clean rig. For wires just locate the factory harness coming from all 4 corners & thru firewall, identify the factory harness going to gauges & hazard/blinker/brake , take everything else out. I used a small 12v batt and test leads to identify & tag the wires for running lights, blinkers, brakes, etc. Some like to use the factory wire color codes, I prefer to test each wire & label anyway, if it corresponds with factory colors all the better for reassembly.

Thank you, That's a good idea. I'll pull the tank next to look for rust. How is the front of your driver seat mounted since the tool box was removed?

 

[peesalot]

Mine had the square tube brackets when I got it.

 

[peesalot]

Looks like someone pulled the tcase & trans & didnt know how to do it without cutting that cross bar, sucks. The rear sill can be done in place, that piece is sold aftermarket for just such situations.

 

[TwelveGravity]

Might want to pull the tank up and have a look at floor and bottom of tank while you have it apart. I am not a fan of the tool box as it condesates in them and walla, mine was removed by PO and at first I was miffed but over 20+ years I now appreciate the foresight. Thas a clean rig. For wires just locate the factory harness coming from all 4 corners & thru firewall, identify the factory harness going to gauges & hazard/blinker/brake , take everything else out. I used a small 12v batt and test leads to identify & tag the wires for running lights, blinkers, brakes, etc. Some like to use the factory wire color codes, I prefer to test each wire & label anyway, if it corresponds with factory colors all the better for reassembly.

I unstrapped the fuel tank to lift it and look underneath, no rust. Looking at it from underneath there is just the surface rust.

 

[peesalot]

There should be a friction material between tank & well it sits in, is thats gone you'll want to replace it.

 

[TwelveGravity]

I clean up the tool box with a wire wheel. It wasn't as bad as I was expecting it to be. There are some severe spots that have corroded all the way throuugh the side of the box but at least nothings gone through the bottom. I'll probably clean it up a little more and coat it to prevent further damage or look into removing the box all together.

 

[TwelveGravity]

Also, I don't think the rear heater hoses are supposed to be like that (kinked under the fuel tank). That'll need to be corrected.

 

[Mark Jennings]

I was in the garage earlier while it was still under 100 degrees out and was on the hunt for the Overdrive that the tag on the dash indicated.

I found this,

And then I found THIS!

That’s where your overdrive ‘use’ to be….you have a standard 3 speed trans and 2 speed transfer case. You should patch or replace the cross member however.

 

[SteveH]

If not too late, I would sort thru this hardware, and keep any Toyota-OEM fasteners, even if rusty. Soak them in Coca-cola (or whatever) and clean them up and save for future use. I have occasionally stolen 'pretty' fasteners under the dash and used them in more visible locations and put skankier fastenters back under the dash. You can never have too many JIS-head fasteners, even older, uglier ones.

 

[rainingagain]

If not too late, I would sort thru this hardware, and keep any Toyota-OEM fasteners, even if rusty. Soak them in Coca-cola (or whatever) and clean them up and save for future use. I have occasionally stolen 'pretty' fasteners under the dash and used them in more visible locations and put skankier fastenters back under the dash. You can never have too many JIS-head fasteners, even older, uglier ones.

View attachment 3524669

There was a wanted post for something like this recently...

 

[TwelveGravity]

If not too late, I would sort thru this hardware, and keep any Toyota-OEM fasteners, even if rusty. Soak them in Coca-cola (or whatever) and clean them up and save for future use. I have occasionally stolen 'pretty' fasteners under the dash and used them in more visible locations and put skankier fastenters back under the dash. You can never have too many JIS-head fasteners, even older, uglier ones.

View attachment 3524669

Good suggestion, thank you. I haven't tossed them yet, I'll sort through them.

 

[pb4ugo]

I'd suggest keep them all. Once you use up the pretty ones, the next best rusty ones will be the pretty ones in the group.

 

[TwelveGravity]

Could anyone tell me if this is the part I need to replace the rusty section that is covered up by the SS metal below?
I believe this picture is one of a newer model year but I found this for the '71 on Marks website.

 

[TwelveGravity]

I'd suggest keep them all. Once you use up the pretty ones, the next best rusty ones will be the pretty ones in the group.

I threw all the hardware in my brass tumbler with Nutshell media for a day. I like the way they came out. Now to work the media out of all the threads.