Mike's 1978 FJ40 Build (2 Viewers)

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Yes single stage paint. I was going to attempt paint myself but needed the experts for the metal replacement work anyways so decided to let them do it. Work done by Prescott Hot Rods-nice guys and great work too. Mike my rig has 2 yes 2 steering dampers-what are you running? I can send you a pic of my setup.
 
Rear quarters and sill btw
 
Yes single stage paint. I was going to attempt paint myself but needed the experts for the metal replacement work anyways so decided to let them do it. Work done by Prescott Hot Rods-nice guys and great work too. Mike my rig has 2 yes 2 steering dampers-what are you running? I can send you a pic of my setup.

They did a nice job and the color is beautiful.

You only need one steering dampener, I run an OME dampener and it works well. Post a pic of yours here so we could all see your setup.
 
Will do and thanks bud!
 
Will get pics up after work.................
 
Here you go, the white unit appears to be leaking, the yellow unit may be ok and I think is in the stock position. I looked at OEM but it looks like their damper has mounts that will not work in the stock position. Why would a PO put in 2 dampers??? The white one attaches to the axle and around the passenger side rod behind/above the leaf spring. What do you think Mike?
Damper.jpg
 
Here you go, the white unit appears to be leaking, the yellow unit may be ok and I think is in the stock position. I looked at OEM but it looks like their damper has mounts that will not work in the stock position. Why would a PO put in 2 dampers??? The white one attaches to the axle and around the passenger side rod behind/above the leaf spring. What do you think Mike?View attachment 1328898

Tom, the yellow one looks like an Old Man Emu in the stock location, I'd remove the other one. One of the main reasons people pile these on is to try to correct steering sloppiness and wondering, however, multiple dampers do not fix steering issues. Sloppy steering is due to worn TREs, or center steering arm is worn or not properly adjusted, or steering knuckles needing to be rebuilt, and/or rag joint worn, it can be one or all of the above. I've covered all of these in this thread.
I hope this info helps.
 
Thanks Mike I will remove the strange white one over the weekend.
 
Funny thing is it has always tracked very well even when I had the 12.5 wide hillbilly tires on-won't be going back to those anytime soon............lol
 
Extra damper removed; it drives NO different which is good. Newb question Mike but how do I check to see if there is play in the center arm or tie rod ends?? Also cleaned area up and got some paint on her.
Damper2.jpg
 
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Tom check steering wheel for excessive play, when driving do you have to constantly correct steering, wondering? If not steering is OK. TREs should tight and grease boots in tact. If Rag joint looks old and original replace it. Read this on the center arm.
 
Thanks Mike!!
 
I finally got around to finish painting the windshield wiper arms.


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Nice work Mike-looking great!
 
A very perplexing day to say the least,Here's the latest issue. So I decided to help out a friend by sympathetically conducting similar tests on my VR and new alternator , so here are my test findings.

VR testing Pic 1 engine off Lights Off ~ Batt Voltage

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Pic 2
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VR testing Pic 4 engine ON at 1800 RPM Lights On

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Pic 6

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VR testing 7 engine on at 1000 RPM Lights On
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Pic 8 VR adjusted several times as per the FSM with similar results no appreciable charging
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VR test pic 10 after several adjustments no appreciable charging

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pic 11

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Pic 12 Brand New Voltage Regulator from O'Reilly's purchased today
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Pic 14 New VR testing 1000 RPM Lights On voltage fluctuation 11.72 V - 11.73 V
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pic 15
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I didn't know that this problem existed with my VR and new alternator, based on the above results it's safe to assume that my charging system is faulty, any advice?

This also explains as to why my previous Optima battery died a cruel death several months ago.
 

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