By popular demand (which means that 3 or 4 people asked) here is the set up:
On-board shower system (1 Viewer)
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a couple more pics before the details.
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Now the details:
The system in principle is no different then the kits being sold on the internet (out of Australia and the US) which go for around $400+.
The principle is to use a heat exchanger of sorts, run engine coolant through one chamber, and let the water flow around it in a second chamber to heat up and you have a hot shower.
Supplies that I used for this were:
a cheap shower kit from 3 vets in Vancouver that had a chap 12V water pump, a cigarette plug in for it, a shower head and a bunch of hose ($25). - EDIT - I've upgraded the water pump to something not made out of plastic and costs a little more.
I found a heat exchanger, actually a marine oil cooler made from copper at Popeye's in North Vancouver, in their surplus/consignment section that was small enough to do what I needed ($70).
The rest is eaten up in brass fittings and fuel line hose, all under $200 in total for the whole thing so far.
If you want to do this you will need the following:
Find a heat exchanger or in-line oil cooler at a marine place, regular automotive stuff will not do the trick as it is designed differently. This unit uses one fluid tight chamber to cool (or in this case heat) another fluid tight chamber. Find one that fits under your hood somewhere. You can order new ones from marine places but they can get very expensive.
You will need a 12V or 24V pump for the water, I will be upgrading my system to an actual marine bilge pump as they are stronger and can run dry without burning up.
You will need to splice into your coolant lines somewhere. I chose the line going to my heater core(s) in my 60, since I stopped using the back heater a long time ago I rerouted the hose to go into the heat exchanger and the output goes into the cab heater core. This flows through the main chamber as it restricts the flow the least and allows for the water to go through the secondary chamber which goes around the primary chamber and therefore the water will heat up better.
In my system I picked up a garden y-splitter with control for each side. The main feed coming off the pump (which can be in a river, lake or bucket) goes through the fuel line (I chose this due to the heat generated in the engine bay) into a regular Y-splitter, one end goes straight to the garden style adjustable Y-splitter to be the cold feed. The other end goes into the heat exchanger, then output from there into the other side of the garden Y-splitter for the hot feed. The combined and adjustable output goes to the connectors and then to the shower head. I will be changing the current connectors in the picture to some quick connects for ease of use.
Finally make a bracket for it all to sit on and you're done.
Suppliers:
Popeye's Sailors Exchange, Sailors Auction, Marine Consignments, used marine Vancouver, marine consignments Vancouver;
for marine equipment, there are other places that might carry heat exchangers locally but this was the only place I found, and I checked out Steveson Marine already.
Green Line Hose & Fittings - Welcome
These guys have every size of hose and fitting you can imagine, brass, stainless, they can make custom hoses, brake lines, etc.
The system in principle is no different then the kits being sold on the internet (out of Australia and the US) which go for around $400+.
The principle is to use a heat exchanger of sorts, run engine coolant through one chamber, and let the water flow around it in a second chamber to heat up and you have a hot shower.
Supplies that I used for this were:
a cheap shower kit from 3 vets in Vancouver that had a chap 12V water pump, a cigarette plug in for it, a shower head and a bunch of hose ($25). - EDIT - I've upgraded the water pump to something not made out of plastic and costs a little more.
I found a heat exchanger, actually a marine oil cooler made from copper at Popeye's in North Vancouver, in their surplus/consignment section that was small enough to do what I needed ($70).
The rest is eaten up in brass fittings and fuel line hose, all under $200 in total for the whole thing so far.
If you want to do this you will need the following:
Find a heat exchanger or in-line oil cooler at a marine place, regular automotive stuff will not do the trick as it is designed differently. This unit uses one fluid tight chamber to cool (or in this case heat) another fluid tight chamber. Find one that fits under your hood somewhere. You can order new ones from marine places but they can get very expensive.
You will need a 12V or 24V pump for the water, I will be upgrading my system to an actual marine bilge pump as they are stronger and can run dry without burning up.
You will need to splice into your coolant lines somewhere. I chose the line going to my heater core(s) in my 60, since I stopped using the back heater a long time ago I rerouted the hose to go into the heat exchanger and the output goes into the cab heater core. This flows through the main chamber as it restricts the flow the least and allows for the water to go through the secondary chamber which goes around the primary chamber and therefore the water will heat up better.
In my system I picked up a garden y-splitter with control for each side. The main feed coming off the pump (which can be in a river, lake or bucket) goes through the fuel line (I chose this due to the heat generated in the engine bay) into a regular Y-splitter, one end goes straight to the garden style adjustable Y-splitter to be the cold feed. The other end goes into the heat exchanger, then output from there into the other side of the garden Y-splitter for the hot feed. The combined and adjustable output goes to the connectors and then to the shower head. I will be changing the current connectors in the picture to some quick connects for ease of use.
Finally make a bracket for it all to sit on and you're done.
Suppliers:
Popeye's Sailors Exchange, Sailors Auction, Marine Consignments, used marine Vancouver, marine consignments Vancouver;
for marine equipment, there are other places that might carry heat exchangers locally but this was the only place I found, and I checked out Steveson Marine already.
Green Line Hose & Fittings - Welcome
These guys have every size of hose and fitting you can imagine, brass, stainless, they can make custom hoses, brake lines, etc.
Last edited:
steverb
meh, eh!
thanks for the rewrite. did you save it this time?
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On-board shower
Thanks Mat!
How did you mount the heat exchanger in the engine bay? I see a couple of u-bolts and looks like a mounting plate. What is that attached to?
This is great, this has been on my 'projects' list for a while.
Thanks Mat!
How did you mount the heat exchanger in the engine bay? I see a couple of u-bolts and looks like a mounting plate. What is that attached to?
This is great, this has been on my 'projects' list for a while.
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- #6
I had some spare steel kicking around (go figure), an old u bracket from some Audio install I did and a chunck of flat bar which I welded together on an angle to match the fender line. The muffler clamps were the easiest way of mounting the heat exchanger (and the only thing I had readily available at the shop). The entire bracket took me maybe 1 1/2 since I had most of the stuff there and just had to cut, weld and drill.
low-cost effective heat exchanager
key is the heat exchanger as the pumps, hoses and fittings are relatively cheap. Apart from lucking out on finding a cheap surplus heat exchangers ($70 is really cheap) , I am looking for a source for one.
This guy used a helical coil, tube-in-tube heat exchanger, which has ribbed internal tubing, which maximizes surface area of the freshwater line surrounded by the hot coolant line. I think an in-line value contraolling coolant flow could regulate temperature, as some use the can heater control for that purpose.
I am looking for a supplier for this part, which I hope will be cheaper than the Helton heat exchanger (made inOz) sold by Cruiser Outfitters for $205 USD
Can anybody out there with a refrigeration/HVAC background who might suggest who might sell such a part –its made by Turbotec in the US
ClassicBroncos.com * Bronco Photo Gallery * 66-77 Early Ford Broncos
key is the heat exchanger as the pumps, hoses and fittings are relatively cheap. Apart from lucking out on finding a cheap surplus heat exchangers ($70 is really cheap) , I am looking for a source for one.
This guy used a helical coil, tube-in-tube heat exchanger, which has ribbed internal tubing, which maximizes surface area of the freshwater line surrounded by the hot coolant line. I think an in-line value contraolling coolant flow could regulate temperature, as some use the can heater control for that purpose.
I am looking for a supplier for this part, which I hope will be cheaper than the Helton heat exchanger (made inOz) sold by Cruiser Outfitters for $205 USD
Can anybody out there with a refrigeration/HVAC background who might suggest who might sell such a part –its made by Turbotec in the US
ClassicBroncos.com * Bronco Photo Gallery * 66-77 Early Ford Broncos
I have the helton in my truck. With the Idle up a little, at 2 GPM it gets to 40* Celsius. using just tap water. I'm planning on improving this by putting exhaust wrap over the heat exchanger so more heat stays trapped in, but for the size of the unit it does ok.
Hoses are a little small though coolant lines are 1/2" and fresh water is 3/8" there is a valve on the coolant to adjust how fast it goes thru. there is no need for the fancy valving matt did on the helton, no matter what you do to it you can not get it hot enough to facilitate putting cold water back in to cool the fresh water down.
Now when my 24V pressure pump comes in I will be good to go I went with pressure pump cause it shuts itself on and off with the water pressure so when you shut the nozzle off it stops and starts up when you turn it back on. If you have any install Q's just ask.
Hoses are a little small though coolant lines are 1/2" and fresh water is 3/8" there is a valve on the coolant to adjust how fast it goes thru. there is no need for the fancy valving matt did on the helton, no matter what you do to it you can not get it hot enough to facilitate putting cold water back in to cool the fresh water down.
Now when my 24V pressure pump comes in I will be good to go I went with pressure pump cause it shuts itself on and off with the water pressure so when you shut the nozzle off it stops and starts up when you turn it back on. If you have any install Q's just ask.
Just be careful when you turn the water back on, you will not want to be directly in the path of the 100º C water.
With your Helton, what is the heat exchanger’s heating capacity measured by the temperature differential between incoming and outgoing fresh water . I am wondering if it is adequate in cooler weather here in BC, say using 40 F stream water (4 C) would it boost it to 110 F (43 C) on 1 pass.
The incoming coolant should be close to the thermostat temp maybe 185 F ( 85 C)
well as far as I have seen the helton only does about 25* C above what you put in. Absolutely not what they advertised on the website (I have the bigger one the one rated for constant hot water) I have not done a whole lot of testing yet as I'm waiting for my pump so I've just been using the hose becuse it's the easiest way to get constant pressurized water I've put in 20* water and got 40* output at 2 GPM so I see an increase of 20 - 25 when it goes thru it. The only other thing I'm thinking of is wrap 3/8 copper pipe around the outside to kinda double heat it. but I'll play once I have my pump running
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Marine Heat Exchangers (oil coolers)
I have found another potential source for the marine heat exchangers (oil coolers). My friend Tony works at a Yacht MRO facility in Anacortes, WA. Tony is a fellow cruiser head, and member of Rain Country Cruisers.
I should have a confirmed price in a day or two once we connect again. Different sizes available.
I have found another potential source for the marine heat exchangers (oil coolers). My friend Tony works at a Yacht MRO facility in Anacortes, WA. Tony is a fellow cruiser head, and member of Rain Country Cruisers.
I should have a confirmed price in a day or two once we connect again. Different sizes available.
Nice find Rob. I'll be interesting to see what they are priced at.
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Those are identical to the one I have. Only difference is someone painted mine black. That works great, and trust me, I end up using the cold water/hot water Y adjustment because it does get too hot just on it's own.
With those units you want to mount them so that the two water inlet/outlet connections point close to straight up. This allows the water to heat up a bit better before it exits the chamber.
With those units you want to mount them so that the two water inlet/outlet connections point close to straight up. This allows the water to heat up a bit better before it exits the chamber.
Co-axial heat exchanger is what you want from a Refridgerator Supply house like Langley Refridgeration across from Save-on on 64th. Range from $100- 200. They are classified by size by "Tons" Size you want for a normal shower flow is a 1/2 or 2/3 ton. Any bigger and it would be too hot. If you live near Cloverdale I'd be happy to show you my set-up.
ham
ham
Heres a sample. Coolant(hot antifreeze) flows thru the large inlets. Cold water source flows thru the small outlets. You need at least an exchanger with 2 1/2 or 3 loops. Use a shower head that you can adjust the flow......the more you restrict the flow the hotter the output and vice versa.
Hi Hamberger-- I have been looking for a supplier of these locally. Great you posted! I understand it is 5/8" coolant 'in and out' and 3/8" freshwater 'in and out', which reduces the use of fitting adapters.
1) Is it the 1/2 ton helical coaxial (condenser) coil, which is smallest they make. Next size is 3/4 ton.
2) have you tested its heating capacity -- by measuring the incoming fresh water temp against the outgoing freshwater temperatures – to see what temp differential it produces? The Helton heat exchanger from Oz I don’t think is up to the task here in Canada.
3) What did it cost?
4) Pictures of you set-up would be greatly appreciated.
1) Is it the 1/2 ton helical coaxial (condenser) coil, which is smallest they make. Next size is 3/4 ton.
2) have you tested its heating capacity -- by measuring the incoming fresh water temp against the outgoing freshwater temperatures – to see what temp differential it produces? The Helton heat exchanger from Oz I don’t think is up to the task here in Canada.
3) What did it cost?
4) Pictures of you set-up would be greatly appreciated.
1) The one I use is the 1/2 ton. If you have a large engine bay or a V8 it might be better
to get the next size up because they run cooler at idle than my gas 4 banger.
2) It cost $100 10 years ago. Its still good and hasn't corroded and the hose clamped
connections are not leaking.
3) Your in Victoria? I looked up Reliable Parts and theres one in Victoria on Burnside Rd.
4) I never measured temperature difference. Whether its from a pond or a glacial
stream I've never really noticed a difference. Plenty hot for a normal shower like at
home........but be careful.....you can burn yourself if the inlet gets plugged at the
source and your flow decreases.
5) Sorry no pics.
I can reply again with description of parts I use if you want. The only photo of it in use
has me naked
and you definitely don't want that!!!
ham
to get the next size up because they run cooler at idle than my gas 4 banger.
2) It cost $100 10 years ago. Its still good and hasn't corroded and the hose clamped
connections are not leaking.
3) Your in Victoria? I looked up Reliable Parts and theres one in Victoria on Burnside Rd.
4) I never measured temperature difference. Whether its from a pond or a glacial
stream I've never really noticed a difference. Plenty hot for a normal shower like at
home........but be careful.....you can burn yourself if the inlet gets plugged at the
source and your flow decreases.
5) Sorry no pics.
I can reply again with description of parts I use if you want. The only photo of it in use
has me naked
and you definitely don't want that!!!ham
Sweet dude
