FJ80 Power Steering Pump & Gearbox Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[Cruiser Jimmy]

5 years of wheelin and neglected PM by the PO has taken it's toll on my rig. I've been leaking power steering fluid from the pump for some time (small leak) and just recently the gear box started leaking very bad (think GSMTR was the kicker for that.) I have now started to monitor the pump's fluid level on a daily basis now.

Therefore a rebuild on the pump and the gearbox is in order.

The gearbox is damn near the same for both 3FE and 1FZ-FE engines.
The pump is different in between the FJ and the FZJ but essence is still the same.
Rebuild kits are in hand.

Is this something ya'll would like to see as a maintenance item?

 

[MLX450]

pics + write up.

 

[concretejungle]

pics + writeup = happy CJ

 

[Trunk Monkey]

My leaking top seal of my gear box says HELL YES.

 

[OGBeno]

I have my gearbox rebuild kit sitting on the shelf waiting for it to puke out fluid. Till then, it leaks at a manageable rate....

And keeps the frame nice and wet with oil and not rusty.

 

[lowtops]

Great timing! I will be replacing the PS hoses when I replace the radiator in the next couple of weeks. Pics and write-up would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Sounds good. I'll get started tomorrow with a little help from Samual Adams.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Rebuilt the power steering pump last night and took pix. Procedures and pix to come tonight.

Plan to rebuild the gearbox over the weekend.

 

[alia176]

Hey,

Why not a video? Hee hee.....!

Ali

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Repair done 6/22/06

Problem:

Power steering pump has been leaking some fluid around the rear seal area. It would puddle up and deposit a turtle head on top of the A/C compressor.

The front seal never showed signs of leaking.

The only problem was I had to add fluid. The pump never gave me a signal that it needed immediate attention. So chalk one up for a good design.

Below are some pics of the rear of the pump and the effect of the leaking seal.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

PSP removal

The 3FE PSP is some what cumbersome to remove. One can go about it two ways.

1.
a) Take the fan and shroud out of the way in order to gain access to the pump.
b) Remove the PSP pulley nut with a 17mm and take the pulley off. In most cases, the pulley might be rusted on to the PSP shaft. It's best if you use some PB blaster and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes. (You'll see what I F*&K up later.)
c) Take the fulcrum'ing bolt out with a 14mm wrench on the right side of the pump and the tightening bolt out on the left side of the pump.
d) Remove the pump.

What you have done with this option is the remove only the pump assembly from the bracket.

2.
a) Loosen the fulcruming and tighting bolts on the pump.
b) Loosen the A/C compressor and move it out of the way.
c) Take out the 4 14mm bolts that hold the PSP bracket to the head.
d) Take the PSP and bracket out of the rig.

What you have done with this option is to take the PSP and bracket out and take the pulley off the pump while it's out of the rig.

The fulcruming bolt that the pump uses to hold itself to the bracket is long and can't be removed while the pulley is on the pump. You have to take the pulley off to remove the bolt to remove the pump.

I opted for two.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Gear Pulley

If ya can't get the pulley off after PB blaster, use a 2 finger or 3 finger gear puller to give it some assistance.

I use PB Blaster after I started to pull the pulley and notice I was distorting the 'V'. (too much Sam Adams)

Also, notice that the bolt does not clean the pulley. This is why the pulley has to come off first before you take out the pump.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Down Hill

After the pump is out, go to the back of the pump and start the guts removal.

1. Use a small tipped screw driver and pry the metal snap ring out of the groove. Note: The snap ring has a chamfered end on one side, so a small tipped screwdriver work great.
2. Carefully remove the internals of the pump.
3. You may need to lightly tape on the rod end of the pump to loosen it up.
Be extremely careful at this point, for it you lightly tape too hard, you could push the vain unit out of the housing and spill the vains all over the place. This would be bad.
4. Once you start the disassembly you'll see the o-rings and where they go.
5. I cleaned everything from the pump housing to the smaller parts with brake cleaner. I did not clean the vain pump assembly itself. I tried to keep it imodel as possible. I did not want to remove the individual vains from their little homes they created.
However, if you happen to loose a vain in the process, gentle tilt one of the vain that's still on the housing and notice the direction and wear pattern of the vain. Memic the location and position of the lost vain from your reference vain still in the housing.

6. Replace all o-rings. Seven in all.
7. Reassembly: memic the disassembly and use power steering fluid to lubricate the compoents back together.

A dental pic and a 'C' clamp made the rebuilt a little easier.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Pic 1:
This is the pump's primary function. The vains come out of the housing by centrifical force and compress the fluid to give preassure.

Pic 2:
The three seals to the left are actaully two 0-rings and one snap ring. The o-ring on the right is different material than the o-rings of the left, so dont' mix them up. The rebuild kit has instructions for ya.
Three o-rings, one snap ring and one front seal are on the bottom.

Pic 3:
Cleaned components.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

more pics

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

The rebuild of the gear box will come over the weekend.

Stay tuned.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Gear box out

Well, I finally got the gear box out on Sunday night. Write up and pics to come soon.

 

[Chotchy]

I wouldn't trust this dude's write up. Here he is doing the PHH mod.

 

[OGBeno]

Nice write up Jimmy.

As always, I follow your lead!

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Pitman arm

Let me just go on the record to say that getting a pitman arm off the steering gear box is one nutbusting task.

Here's how I got the box out:

1. Took the tie rod off first. Wanted to get the pitman arm off first but the gear puller that I has would not reach in between the frame and the gear shaft as the shaft was tight against the frame. Not room to get a good bit around the pitman arm.

2. Took the 2 u-joint bolts out that connects the gearbox and the steering wheel shaft coming from the cab.

3. Took the two fuild lines off the box. Note: the old low preassure line was cracked. I'm going to replace the hose with some 3/8" stock from a parts store.

4. Took the 4 bolts that hold the box to the body off with a 17 mm socket on one end and a 17mm box combo on the other end. Needed some extra leverage with these 4 bolts.