[Cruiser Jimmy]

5 years of wheelin and neglected PM by the PO has taken it's toll on my rig. I've been leaking power steering fluid from the pump for some time (small leak) and just recently the gear box started leaking very bad (think GSMTR was the kicker for that.) I have now started to monitor the pump's fluid level on a daily basis now.

Therefore a rebuild on the pump and the gearbox is in order.

The gearbox is damn near the same for both 3FE and 1FZ-FE engines.
The pump is different in between the FJ and the FZJ but essence is still the same.
Rebuild kits are in hand.

Is this something ya'll would like to see as a maintenance item?

[MLX450]

pics + write up.

[concretejungle]

pics + writeup = happy CJ

[Trunk Monkey]

My leaking top seal of my gear box says HELL YES.

[beno]

I have my gearbox rebuild kit sitting on the shelf waiting for it to puke out fluid. Till then, it leaks at a manageable rate....

And keeps the frame nice and wet with oil and not rusty.

[lowtops]

Great timing! I will be replacing the PS hoses when I replace the radiator in the next couple of weeks. Pics and write-up would be greatly appreciated.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Sounds good. I'll get started tomorrow with a little help from Samual Adams.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Rebuilt the power steering pump last night and took pix. Procedures and pix to come tonight.

Plan to rebuild the gearbox over the weekend.

[alia176]

Hey,

Why not a video? Hee hee.....!

Ali

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Problem:

Power steering pump has been leaking some fluid around the rear seal area. It would puddle up and deposit a turtle head on top of the A/C compressor.

The front seal never showed signs of leaking.

The only problem was I had to add fluid. The pump never gave me a signal that it needed immediate attention. So chalk one up for a good design.

Below are some pics of the rear of the pump and the effect of the leaking seal.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

The 3FE PSP is some what cumbersome to remove. One can go about it two ways.

1.
a) Take the fan and shroud out of the way in order to gain access to the pump.
b) Remove the PSP pulley nut with a 17mm and take the pulley off. In most cases, the pulley might be rusted on to the PSP shaft. It's best if you use some PB blaster and let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes. (You'll see what I F*&K up later.)
c) Take the fulcrum'ing bolt out with a 14mm wrench on the right side of the pump and the tightening bolt out on the left side of the pump.
d) Remove the pump.

What you have done with this option is the remove only the pump assembly from the bracket.

2.
a) Loosen the fulcruming and tighting bolts on the pump.
b) Loosen the A/C compressor and move it out of the way.
c) Take out the 4 14mm bolts that hold the PSP bracket to the head.
d) Take the PSP and bracket out of the rig.

What you have done with this option is to take the PSP and bracket out and take the pulley off the pump while it's out of the rig.

The fulcruming bolt that the pump uses to hold itself to the bracket is long and can't be removed while the pulley is on the pump. You have to take the pulley off to remove the bolt to remove the pump.

I opted for two.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

If ya can't get the pulley off after PB blaster, use a 2 finger or 3 finger gear puller to give it some assistance.

I use PB Blaster after I started to pull the pulley and notice I was distorting the 'V'. (too much Sam Adams)

Also, notice that the bolt does not clean the pulley. This is why the pulley has to come off first before you take out the pump.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

After the pump is out, go to the back of the pump and start the guts removal.

1. Use a small tipped screw driver and pry the metal snap ring out of the groove. Note: The snap ring has a chamfered end on one side, so a small tipped screwdriver work great.
2. Carefully remove the internals of the pump.
3. You may need to lightly tape on the rod end of the pump to loosen it up.
Be extremely careful at this point, for it you lightly tape too hard, you could push the vain unit out of the housing and spill the vains all over the place. This would be bad.
4. Once you start the disassembly you'll see the o-rings and where they go.
5. I cleaned everything from the pump housing to the smaller parts with brake cleaner. I did not clean the vain pump assembly itself. I tried to keep it imodel as possible. I did not want to remove the individual vains from their little homes they created.
However, if you happen to loose a vain in the process, gentle tilt one of the vain that's still on the housing and notice the direction and wear pattern of the vain. Memic the location and position of the lost vain from your reference vain still in the housing.

6. Replace all o-rings. Seven in all.
7. Reassembly: memic the disassembly and use power steering fluid to lubricate the compoents back together.

A dental pic and a 'C' clamp made the rebuilt a little easier.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Pic 1:
This is the pump's primary function. The vains come out of the housing by centrifical force and compress the fluid to give preassure.

Pic 2:
The three seals to the left are actaully two 0-rings and one snap ring. The o-ring on the right is different material than the o-rings of the left, so dont' mix them up. The rebuild kit has instructions for ya.
Three o-rings, one snap ring and one front seal are on the bottom.

Pic 3:
Cleaned components.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

more pics

[Cruiser Jimmy]

The rebuild of the gear box will come over the weekend.

Stay tuned.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Well, I finally got the gear box out on Sunday night. Write up and pics to come soon.

[Chotchy]

I wouldn't trust this dude's write up. Here he is doing the PHH mod.

[beno]

Nice write up Jimmy.

As always, I follow your lead!

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Let me just go on the record to say that getting a pitman arm off the steering gear box is one nutbusting task.

Here's how I got the box out:

1. Took the tie rod off first. Wanted to get the pitman arm off first but the gear puller that I has would not reach in between the frame and the gear shaft as the shaft was tight against the frame. Not room to get a good bit around the pitman arm.

2. Took the 2 u-joint bolts out that connects the gearbox and the steering wheel shaft coming from the cab.

3. Took the two fuild lines off the box. Note: the old low preassure line was cracked. I'm going to replace the hose with some 3/8" stock from a parts store.

4. Took the 4 bolts that hold the box to the body off with a 17 mm socket on one end and a 17mm box combo on the other end. Needed some extra leverage with these 4 bolts.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

With the box off, you can get some grip around the pitman arm.

Notes:
There are match marks on the Pitman Arm and the Shaft. When reassembling match the marks back up. The marks are on both sides of the pitman arm and the shaft.

There are match marks of the u-joint and the steering shaft also. Make sure those match back up too.

[beno]

Lookin tough Jimmy....

Ya wanna come over for the 4th to help me with mine??



Thanks.

This should go directly to the FAQ section.

-o-

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Next,
Remove the end cover by taking the 4 bolts out, taking the adjusting nut off and turning the adjusting screw to retract the end cover.
Next,
Take the shaft out.
Note the shafts teeth position in relation to the body. The teeth are on an elipse around the shaft. If the teeth are not centered when coming out of the body, the teeth will engage the body and scare the surface. There is an o-ring around the top of the end plate. If the body surface is scared you'll add extra expense to have this repaired.

Pic 3 shows a mark on the oppisite end of the shaft to reference with. The mark will be horizontal with the frame mounting portion of the body.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Originally Posted by beno

Nice write up Jimmy.

As always, I follow your lead!

Just as long as you don't follow my line

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Originally Posted by alia176

Hey,

Why not a video? Hee hee.....!

Ali

I've got a betamax camera. I can add some '70 tracks in the background.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Next, use a 10mm allen to remove the plunger guide nut, spring, o-ring and plunger guide.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Okay, pay attention to this part.

The steering shaft end/valve body needs to be removed very carefully. Turn the steering shaft end so to draw out the assembly. The piston valve and the shaft housing should come out together. There are several BB's inside the assy which are a medium that connects the piston and the shaft assy.

All the o-rings can be replaced with these two units still continued.

If they're separated, you'll have to figure out how to put it back together. (Like I did )

With the assy out and in a vise, check the ball clearance with the dial indicator. Max clearance is 0.15mm.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

With everything disassembled start replacing all the o-rings and seals, etc.

Reassembly is pretty easy:

Install the worm gear valve body, replace the plunger nut assy. Align the worm gear so that it's center to the body of the housing body.
Install the steering shaft with the teeth aligned with the teeth of the piston body.

[lowtideride]

I just rebuilt my Gear Box last night after taping it for Hydro Assist. I am a little ticked off at FSM for not going into detail on replacing the worm shafts seals, the ones I was really after. The FSM manual just tells you not to take it apart. If I would not have been pressed for time I would have.

I had the piston off before by mistake and had to reload it with ball bearings...Not all the difficult and rather neat how it works...agian it also NOT explained in the FSM. I hoping the worm shaft does not leak because it is the one oil seal I did not get to replace. (where the sector shaft connects to it). These seals were present in the re-build kit from Toyota but agian where not even in the exploded view of the Gear Box of the FSM....

Also...Ill add some tips. It is a good Idea to use the piston ring clamp on the teflon seal on the piston. Becuase the sharp wall of the box will cut it if the seal is not compressed. Make sure you follow the steps in order for the seals on the bottom of the box....Becuase they go on in a different order than they come off.

Aside from that.. Have Fun

P.S. Jim how are the box and pump doing? any leaks? I have to rebuild a P.S. Pump in our 80 in the next comming months...

Thanks for the write up.

[Cruiser Jimmy]

No leaks for the pump or box. Just a little bit around the 'off the shelf' hose (low side) that I used, more like it's sweating that leaking. I guess the 3 stright weeks of <32º might be a factor.

Ride on. . . .