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Old 05-08-06, 01:40 PM   #1
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Cleaning AC System and Evaporator

My most recent 80 came with the funk of cigar smell. The only item left to clean was the AC system and specifically the evaporator, which is where a lot of foul smell and mildew gets trapped. For you non-AC types, the evaporator looks like a little radiator and lives up inside the dash and has refrigerant passing through it....its what the fan blows across to give you cold air.

So after a thread or two here I discovered BG Products' Frigi-Clean system, made especially for curing this problem. And as if things couldn't get any better I discovered that they have a warehouse 10 minutes from my house.

It comes in an aerosol can along with a standard pneumatic fitting that you install in the evaporator housing. With simple printed directions and a quickie 1/4 install I foamed and cleaned the system in about 10 minutes. It foams and rids the evaporator fins of mildew, nicotine, dust and funk. The residue runs out the AC drain hole onto the ground. I followed it up with their Frigi-Fresh Antibacterial Air Freshener, which as a last step you spray into the cowl vents. Wow, what a difference. Even before the air freshener, it knocked all the smell out of the vents. And whenever I want to do it again, all I have to do is get another can and attach it to the fitting and push the button.

So forgot air fresheners and sprays that cover up the smell, solve the problem by killing the bacteria and mildew at the source. $25 total from BG Products.
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Old 05-08-06, 01:44 PM   #2
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Great info Jim. I remember the smell that existed despite the previous owner detailing the truck from head to toe! I still smell the dust from Anza Borrego from February.

Edit - did a quick search on Frigi-clean and found this:

http://www.badnissaninfiniticars.com/frigi.htm

Very interesting.


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Old 05-08-06, 01:46 PM   #3
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So do you tap into the evaporator?

Huh... $25.00 eh, I might have to guive it a try


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Old 05-08-06, 01:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitesse_6
So do you tap into the evaporator?

Huh... $25.00 eh, I might have to guive it a try
LOOKING AT THE PICS ( ) you'll see in pic one a brass fitting and in pic two, the clear line running to said brass fitting. Drill a 1/4" hole and screw the fitting in. Attach the hose, start the truck and push on the top of the can to discharge the foam. You are cleaning the exterior fins of the evaporator, not the internal plumbing.


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Old 05-08-06, 01:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brentbba
Great info Jim. I remember the smell that existed despite the previous owner detailing the truck from head to toe! I still smell the dust from Anza Borrego from February.

Edit - did a quick search on Frigi-clean and found this:

http://www.badnissaninfiniticars.com/frigi.htm

Very interesting.
That website looks like a scam... I have used other BG products in the past with great results.

I am looking forward to a long(er) term report Jim! Hope this works for you.


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Old 05-08-06, 02:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX_TLC
That website looks like a scam... I have used other BG products in the past with great results.

I am looking forward to a long(er) term report Jim! Hope this works for you.
Based on what I saw when I had the lower half of the evaporator housing pryed slightly apart, and based on what ran out onto my driveway when I foamed it, my AC is only getting better. Even if I have to run another $14 can through it, its better and cheaper than evacuating the AC, removing the evaporator and putting it all back together.


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Old 05-08-06, 03:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brentbba
Great info Jim. I remember the smell that existed despite the previous owner detailing the truck from head to toe! I still smell the dust from Anza Borrego from February.

Edit - did a quick search on Frigi-clean and found this:

http://www.badnissaninfiniticars.com/frigi.htm

Very interesting.

aparently nobody ever told that guy that turning off the AC ( but leave fan running on high) several minutes before shut down will solve his problem, with a good cleaning will be even better,

if the evaporator is dry when you shut down then mold will not grow. if it is clean with no food source mold will not grow even if is is wet.


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Old 05-08-06, 04:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RavenTai
aparently nobody ever told that guy that turning off the AC ( but leave fan running on high) several minutes before shut down will solve his problem, with a good cleaning will be even better, if the evaporator is dry when you shut down then mold will not grow. if it is clean with no food source mold will not grow even if is is wet.
I'd like to tell him he is a dumba** in general, but I can't find contact info on the site.

I just got back from a 45 minute drive in my 80 and the AC is clean as a whistle. I am not going to tear the lower unit apart again to see what it looks like (that was the whole point in this exercise), but it smells like new. Actually, it has NO smell whatsoever. Its hot and humid here this afternoon and I now have it parked in the driveway, cooking. We'll see what says when we get in it tonight headed to dinner.

Thanks for your prior links Raven.


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Old 05-08-06, 05:25 PM   #9
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Jim,
This looks like some good stuff that I'll have to try out on mine. Where's that warehouse located? Also, when you're doing the cleaning, do you have the A/C running or not? I may sound like a dumba$$, but I know NOTHING about A/C systems.



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Old 05-08-06, 06:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notyourmomslx450
Jim,
This looks like some good stuff that I'll have to try out on mine. Where's that warehouse located? Also, when you're doing the cleaning, do you have the A/C running or not? I may sound like a dumba$$, but I know NOTHING about A/C systems.
You don't have to know anything about AC systems to do this. You drill a hole in the evaporator housing (see pic) and plumb in the adapter (it is essentially a shortened, screw-in valve stem). Attach the hose and the can, start the truck and open up the AC and hold down the top button on the can. It takes about 15 seconds to discharge the contents of the can into the evaporator housing under the dash. You then kill the truck and let it sit there and soak for 10 minutes. Start the truck, run for 10 more minutes, hose off the driveway and you are done.

To get to the Houston warehouse go 1/4 mile north of the Jones Rd/FM1960 intersection and go west on a side street called Jones Road West. Red brick building 1/4 mile down on right. BR sign on the end of the building. Cool folks, lots of nifty products.


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Old 05-08-06, 06:17 PM   #11
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good deal, thanks!


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Old 05-08-06, 11:04 PM   #12
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You are unbelieveable...in a good way. That is one cheap fix that Janae will actually notice. Thanks.


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Old 05-09-06, 12:26 PM   #13
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So it actually puked out chunky black stuff on your driveway? I'd be very interested in this stuff myself!


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Old 05-09-06, 01:31 PM   #14
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Great stuff Jim, I added it to the FAQ


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Old 05-09-06, 01:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proven
So it actually puked out chunky black stuff on your driveway? I'd be very interested in this stuff myself!
Actually, it looked like Coca Cola. I am sure it was all the nicotine and varnish that was stuck on the evaporator. Quite foul.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer
Great stuff Jim, I added it to the FAQ
Thanks Ken. Day 2 and the sour, smoky mildew smell is completely gone when I fire up the AC. As humid as it gets here, I am thinking this may become a semi-annual ritual.


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Old 05-10-06, 08:43 AM   #16
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Any contact information for us not close to Houston?
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Old 05-10-06, 09:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YinDW
Any contact information for us not close to Houston?
Go to Yahoo and search for BG Products.


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Old 05-11-06, 02:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi
LOOKING AT THE PICS ( ) you'll see in pic one a brass fitting and in pic two, the clear line running to said brass fitting. Drill a 1/4" hole and screw the fitting in. Attach the hose, start the truck and push on the top of the can to discharge the foam. You are cleaning the exterior fins of the evaporator, not the internal plumbing.
Instead of drilling, would removing the resistor and spray into the box work?


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Old 05-11-06, 11:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Instead of drilling, would removing the resistor and spray into the box work?
It would probably make a big mess. The idea is to fill the entire evaporator housing up and engulf the core with foam and let it soak for 10 minutes. Based on where the resistor goes in and the big hole it leaves when you take it out, a lot of foam is going to come right back out and into your passenger floorboard. Also, you are supposed to run the truck and the fan for 10 minutes after foaming and you sure can't do that with the resistor out.

Mine must have been pretty gunked up because my AC is definitely blowing colder than before.


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Old 05-11-06, 11:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi
Go to Yahoo and search for BG Products.
bgprod.com has a distributor locator. I've been wanting to try some BG 44K, but can't find anyone who carries it locally. Closest distributor says Nashville.


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Old 05-11-06, 07:32 PM   #21
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that is pretty cool, i live in houston near the source and will for sure do this trick, i've been looking for something that would do this job, thanks for the great post


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Old 05-11-06, 09:06 PM   #22
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Sounds like BG has developed a great way to clean the evaporators. Somebody was thinking on that one. I would still try to rinse the evaporator/box when done. My refrigeration guys use coil cleaners that claim you do not have to rinse, but we get much better results by rinsing the coils after using any type of coils cleaners.


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Old 05-11-06, 09:43 PM   #23
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Just an FYI, on page AC-35 of the 1997 FSM it says "Never use water to clean the evaporator."


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Old 05-12-06, 04:04 PM   #24
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Im very disappointed....I went to my local BG dist. which is about 1 mile away, $70.00 !!! !
I will see IF I need it that bad....
Thanks for the info.


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Old 05-12-06, 11:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitesse_6
Im very disappointed....I went to my local BG dist. which is about 1 mile away, $70.00 !!! !
I will see IF I need it that bad....
Thanks for the info.
This is not BG, but if you need it bad .... it is less than $70

http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=dwd2


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Old 05-13-06, 12:18 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitesse_6
Im very disappointed....I went to my local BG dist. which is about 1 mile away, $70.00 !!! !
I will see IF I need it that bad....
Thanks for the info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi
$25 total from BG Products.

Something is not jiving here

It seams odd that the FSM says not to use water on something that constantly condenses large amounts of water on its surface in normal use and even has drain installed to drain the water?

Quote:
EVAPORATOR
INSPECTION
1. REMOVE EVAPORATOR (See page AC–25)
2. CHECK EVAPORATOR FINS FOR BLOCKAGE
If the fins are clogged, clean them with compressed air.
NOTICE:
Never use water to clean the evaporator.
3. CHECK FITTINGS FOR CRACKS OR SCRATCHES
Repair as necessary.
4. REINSTALL EVAPORATOR (See page AC–25)

Maybe they mean wile the evaporator is removed and open (see context) you should not use water on it in fear of getting some in the open ports? Water contamination on the inside of the system is a problem. On the exterior of a sealed evaporator should be fine,


Interesting to hear that the AC now seams t work better, if it was covered in funk before it would make sense that it will cool better with that insulation removed.

people have also gotten results by insulating the AC lines where they run in the engine bay to reduce absorption of heat.


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Old 05-13-06, 09:29 PM   #27
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